Ferguson TO20 missing on cylinder?

Hi everyone I have another question. Lately been working on my 49 ferguson to20. But been having a problem with my Dads 51 Ferguson. When my Dad and me got her running two years ago after replacing the carb it ran perfectly fine. But then last winter it would not run I would try every day to start her. Finally one day she started and moved but it was missing on one cylinder very bad. Then after some seafoam and turning the main adjustment screw on the carb it ran good from there on good. But it comes back now and only goes away when you put seafoam in the tank. Also I noticed some oil leaking around the head gasket on the first cylinder closest to the fan. My Dad said for years it did that and you clean the plug and it fixes it. Well I did that a couple times but it always seems to come back. I was thinking possibly the carb because it gave me trouble running last winter. My other 49 TO20 I just finished the wiring on it has got a pretty good oil leak around the head gaskets, about 3 cylinders but it runs perfectly fine? I seen a video the other day and it said something about the tractor missing and they did a engine rebuilt on it. I wanted to get some opinions because I really hope that's not it.
 

I would start small and cheap before getting involved in a rebuild .
Ignition leads , distributor cap, rotor, plugs and condenser first to address electrical trouble .
Torquing the head down to specification might help with the leak .
Removing the tank and flushing it and cleaning the fuel bowl , filter and carb might solve any fuel issues .

Someone on this forum once wisely said that 90% of fuel problems were electrical and 90% of electrical problems were down to fuel :)
 
Sounds like there could be multiple problems.

The best approach is to do some basic diagnostics.

First, be ready to catch it in the act. When it won't start, or misses badly.

Several things to check. Look at the plugs. An oil fouled plug will be crusted or sometimes just a piece of carbon across the gap, usually gummy sticky black if it's been run fouled. Cleaning or replacing the plug will be a temporary fix until it fouls again.

This is the type problem that is fixed by doing a ring job or an overhaul to stop the oil getting by the rings.

But, don't jump into doing an overhaul until all other possibilities have been covered. Other things can cause plug fouling, such as weak spark, low compression, open or missing thermostat, rich mixture, short runs/light load/excess idling, over filled oil/gas contaminated oil, leaking head gasket, or restricted crankcase vent tube.

Let's look at the ignition system. Check the points condition, check the gap, check for side play in the distributor shaft. The shaft needs to have very little side movement, otherwise the points will not stay set. Check the centrifugal advance. The rotor should turn a few degrees CCW, then spring back when released. If it's frozen, or doesn't return, the distributor will need to come out, be taken apart, inspected, lubed, repaired as needed. Finally, check the spark quality at the plug end of each wire. Cranking or running, each wire should give a blue hot spark that will jump 1/4" to ground.

Check the compression. If it misses badly after sitting, could be coolant getting into a cylinder. Coolant in a cylinder will stick the rings, stick a valve open, wet the plug to the point it can't fire even with compression. A leaking head gasket will also cause overheating, mystery coolant loss, water and excess vapor out the exhaust, blowing coolant out the radiator. The oil you see around the head, chances are the oil is running down from the valve cover gasket. The only oil pressurized through the head gasket is at the very back, the port for oiling the rockers.

Service the air cleaner. Up inside the canister, above the oil cup, there is a wire mesh that needs cleaning. It is often overlooked. The mesh is difficult to remove and usually easier to replace than try to save if it is heavily caked with dirt, and they usually are.

Check the fuel system. There is a drain plug in the bottom of the carb. With the fuel valve open, have a clean glass ready, remove the plug, catch the flow. It should have a full stream, not slow to a drip or stop. Look at what is caught. If it's dirty, rust chunks, cloudy with water, or water in the bottom of the glass, the tank is contaminated and will need to come off and be rinsed out. If it is flaking rust it maybe time for a new tank, very common at that age.

The same contamination will be in the carb. easy enough to take it apart and clean it, but until clean fuel is supplied, it will get right back in there. Inline filters do not work well with gravity fuel systems.

As for adjusting the carb, that will be the last thing to do. Everything else needs to be done first. The best carb will not overcome other problems with the engine or the ignition system.

Adjust the idle first. The engine needs to be up to operating temperature. The idle speed must be down around 450 RPM. Turning the idle adjustment screw(the small screw up top) in, will richen the mix, out will lean it. The screw adjusts air bleed, not fuel. Back it out to rough idle, then back in to best idle.

Then go to the main adjust. Turn it in to gently seat, then back out 2 turns. Again with the engine up to operating temp, idle the engine down to 450, then suddenly open the throttle, listen for the response. The engine should take sudden throttle without hesitation. Start turning the main jet in 1/4 turn at a time, repeating the test until the engine falters on acceleration. Then back the screw out 1/4 turn at a time, repeating the test until the engine takes throttle without hesitation. A single puff of black smoke is desirable.

This will give you a start, let us know what you find.
 
Ok thanks when I get some time I will look at those things. I think most likely it the last cylinder needs a look at one day inside. Because when you run the tractor you can see the oil coming out around the pug, plus when you take the plug out the whole cylinder and bore inside in saturated with oil. Now the other 3 have no problem they don't consume any oil at all. Know my other TO20 looks like has a pretty good leak around 3 cylinder around the spark plugs know it wont idle is good as the one missing but it doesn't lack power at all when starting and stopping?
 
Thanks for the reply I will check those thing over. I did adjustment the main needle on the carb when I got it running again and that
solved the problem again. PLus when I run sea foam you can here it tries to clear up and finally does. I would try tightening the head
bolts down but the TO20 had the famous problem of the block cracking between the cylinders. I know it problably hurt is but if I am going to
do that I would want to take a look at the rings while I have the tank off and everything.
 
This is a bit of a strange one. I don't know why it would miss on one cylinder because of a fuel problem. And I don't know what the Sea Foam is doing.

I would start with changing the plugs and plug wires. Plug wires can be a hidden source of problems. And they can be inconsistent, making the problem come and go. I always keep an eye on mine, with any engine in any vehicle.

To diagnose ignition problems disconnect one plug wire at a time (engine off!) and then try it to see if it runs differently. If it runs the same as before you disconnected the wire, you have found out which cylinder is giving trouble. This could also help you spot other mechanical problems with that cylinder, but is the easiest way to track down ignition problems.

It's probably due for plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points and condensor anyway, so why not replace those cheap and simple things before tearing down the engine?

David
 


Seeing that you have eliminated the obvious causes running a compression rest is sound advice .
A broken valve spring or bent valve stem might just cause the trouble you have described . Bent stem can cause a miss and also wear the valve guide allowing more oil down into the cylinder .
 
"I have already replaced the plugs, new wire, rotor, new coil, points, .."

I have had new plug wires fail to work properly more than once - a real head scratcher as you'd think them to be about the most fool proof of any ignition item - cheap and easy to test tho, change out the wire to the old one or borrow a wire from your other tractor -
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top