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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Super C Throw-out Bearing

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Peabody

04-04-2007 08:36:24




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For some time now, my Super C has made a sort of wobbling/vibrating noise when pulling off in reverse while letting off the clutch pedal. Recently it began doing it pretty badly when pulling off in any gear. I assume the throw-out bearing I replaced a couple of years ago has gone dry. I greased the bearing carrier through the hole in the SIDE of the bell housing. My maintenance manual indicates a grease fitting on the bearing accessible through the inspection hole on the BOTTOM of the bell housing, but I can't see a thing up in there to indicate there is a grease fitting. What am I missing? Where else do I need to look?

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Cedric

04-06-2007 03:38:11




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 Re: Super C Throw-out Bearing in reply to Peabody, 04-04-2007 08:36:24  
My '51 SC and '54 Super A-1 have carbon release bearings which require no lubrication, so the problem that you are experiencing could be any one of the other suggestions already put forward. Sid.



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banjo

04-04-2007 23:01:04




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 Re: Super C Throw-out Bearing in reply to Peabody, 04-04-2007 08:36:24  
When i replace a pilot bearing i get a socket that will fit inside it but not tight. i pump some grease on the pilot hole and use a hammer to strike the socket with extension. keep adding a little grease till the pilot bearing comes out. never had one that that wouldnt work on. sometimes they are pretty tight and takes some pretty good whacks to break them loose.



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Owen Aaland

04-04-2007 19:12:54




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 Re: Super C Throw-out Bearing in reply to Peabody, 04-04-2007 08:36:24  
Clutch release noise will start when the bearing touches the release levers when pushing the pedal forward. The noise will continue until the clutch is completely released and free play is established.

Pilot bearing noise will start later in the cycle and end earlier. It will begin when the clutch is completely released and end as the disk starts to spin with the flywheel and pressure plate assembly. It will disappear before the clutch is completely released.

Clutch disc problems will appear when the clutch is starting to engage and usually is gone when completely engaged. Oil or grease on the friction material can cause noise and jerky action before it gets so bad thet it slips. A leaking rear main seal or too much grease on the release bearing can cause lubricant to get on the lining.

From your description of the problem my, first guess would be a lining problem. If you can get at it, you could try holding the clutch down and, with the engine running, spray carb or brake cleaner on the disk in front ot the release bearing.

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Peabody

04-04-2007 18:19:40




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 Re: Super C Throw-out Bearing in reply to Peabody, 04-04-2007 08:36:24  
Thanks, guys, for all the responses. I think I'm hearing what I didn't want to hear. I DID lube through the side hole on the bell housing, to no avail. However, when I replaced the clutch AND the throw-out bearing a couple of years ago, I DID NOT replace the pilot bearing (It looked "OK" to me!), and you are convincing me that that is probably the problem. Oh, well. It's not a major thing to split the litte girl. I do remember that one reason I didn't replace the pilot bearing was that it looked like it was going to be a real booger to get the old one out. Any tricks? Just another project to put on my list. Thanks again for all the advice. This remains a great forum of great friends.

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Satsop

04-04-2007 10:17:34




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 Re: Super C Throw-out Bearing in reply to Peabody, 04-04-2007 08:36:24  
Peabody
We had a SC that made an awful noise as the clutch engaged and then quited down while engaged, turned out to be the pilot bearing.
Jim



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A. Bohemian

04-04-2007 09:09:59




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 Re: Super C Throw-out Bearing in reply to Peabody, 04-04-2007 08:36:24  
You"re looking in the wrong place. Look for the little cap on the port in the SIDE of the bell housing. Look on the left (carburator) side.

Pull that little cap (it"s held in place by a rivited clip you"ll see when it pops off). Look straight in - you"ll see the throwout bearing and zerk fitting.

It sounds to me like the throwout bearing is so worn you need a new one, and I would likely put in a new clutch while I was in there.

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A. Bohemian

04-04-2007 09:56:52




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 Sorry. in reply to A. Bohemian, 04-04-2007 09:09:59  
Misunderstood your question the first time through.

The Lubrication chapter of the Owner's Manual reprint I have gives item number 37 as "Clutch release bearing" and says there is a "clutch release bearing fitting."

This is clearly distinct from item number 21, "Clutch release bearing retainer."

The diagram in the Lubrication Guide clearly points to the release bearing (I've always used the term "throw-out bearing"), but there's no fitting visible on mine.

I don't know the answer to this. Apparently I've been missing something all these years. I just kind of "blipped" over this passage in the owner's manual, thinking I had it covered by hitting the zerk on the retainer.

If I had to guess, I'd guess the original throw-out bearing had a lubrication fitting, but my after-market bearing does not. Probably the after-market bearing instead has teflon or other "life-time" lubrication that will, of course, give out long before the clutch itself.

But this is just a GUESS. Anyone KNOW?

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Red Dave

04-04-2007 11:14:05




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 Re: Sorry. in reply to A. Bohemian, 04-04-2007 09:56:52  
The fitting is not in the bearing.
The fitting is in the bracket that holds the bearing.
The grease fitting is accessed through the left side of the torque tube, through a hole in the casting that was capped from the factory. Most of the caps are long gone, but the access hole remains. Give it couple of shots of grease, but don't get crazy with the grease. It doesn't need much.

BTW, it sounds to me like the culprit isn't the throwout bearing, it sounds like it might be a pilot bearing problem. There is no grease fitting for that on a Super C.

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A. Bohemian

04-04-2007 13:27:19




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 Re: Sorry. in reply to Red Dave, 04-04-2007 11:14:05  
Thanks for your reply.

If you will please re-read the thread, you will find that we both know about the grease fitting on what you are calling the "bracket" (IH calls it the "retainer" in the manual).

We both know about the access hole in the left side of the torque tube. This is item #21 in the list of periodic lubrication in the "Lubrication" section of the manual.

There is also a seperate item, #37, that pertains to the bearing itself.

Quoting DIRECTLY from the manual:

"21 - Clutch release bearing retainer. Use pressure-gun (chassis lubricant) and apply two or three strokes of the lubricator. Do not overlubricate. The fitting can be reached by removing the clutch housing dust cover from the left side of the clutch housing."

This is the one we ALL know about. However:

"37 - Clutch release bearing. Use pressure-gun grease (chassis lubricant). After every 1,000 hours or at least once a every year, apply a few strokes of the lubricator to clutch release bearing fitting (37) or just enough grease until it starts to come out of the bleeder hole on top of the bearing retainer. To reach the fitting, remover clutch housing handhole cover "A." See illustration 37. Also see Illust. 41b."

Illustration 37 is the main diagram showing all points of lubrication. It is drawing, not a photo; and it CLEARLY shows a lubrication fitting on the bearing itself.

Not the retainer, the bearing.

Illustration 41b simply shows the location of the handhole cover (also known as the "mouse nest removal cover").

The fitting on the retainer is shown seperately from the fitting on the bearing in Illustration 37, with the notation "left side."

Again, my belief is that OEM bearings were lubricated and had a fitting on them, but aftermarket bearings are lifetime bearings and won't take lubrication.

I'm hoping some one will know the answer to this one; I sure don't.

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A. Bohemian

04-04-2007 14:47:50




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 Hey, Peabody! in reply to A. Bohemian, 04-04-2007 13:27:19  
Apparently the aftermarket bearings are different, lifetime lubricated with graphite. I found this:

Link

I wish I had known this when I had the clutch replaced. Not surprisingly the older bearings seem to have lasted longer.

The thread referenced above implies that at the date of the thread (3/06) one could still get the old-style bearings from Case dealers. I hope that is still true.

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