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Electrical problems!

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49 Cubber!

07-27-2003 15:15:25

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Ok,had problem with my M not charging.Put on THREE new cutouts and had generator tested at two differnt places and all checks out good with all three cutouts.(Now Im stuck with them until I need them,which at the rate Im going wont be long)Heres the problem:Tractor off,pull out switch gauge goes to about -2 or so.Start up tractor.With light switch on low charge,gauge reads 4 or so at first then drops to 0,resistor is getting hot,but not hot enough to turn red,but enough to burn my finger.Not affected by engine speed.On high charge I get reading anywhere from 5-20 amps depending on engine speed.Turn on the lights and the needle moves back towards 0 then goes back up,again depending on engine speed,to where it was,so thats working ok,right?My concern is the heat from the resistor and the 0 reading on the amp gauge on low charge.Other than that its working fine

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49....Let me add this!

07-27-2003 16:08:01

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Re: Electrical problems! in reply to 49 Cubber!, 07-27-2003 15:15:25

Just fiddled with it some more to give you guys some more info.I have one wire from the starter that goes up to the ampmeter.In either LOW or HIGH charge,if I take this wire off of the battery,the tractor will run even at low rpms in both positions but I get no reading on the ampmeter.One thing I forgot tto mention is this is a 12 volt generator from an MD with the proper cutout and wiring.I have also set it up for NEGATIVE ground,I get mixed up sometimes and wanted to make sure I didnt blow up a battery by hooking it up wrong.(Did that once before and my left eye paid the price)this set up was working fim=ne up until a month or so ago and had been like this for about three years now!

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Bob M

07-27-2003 16:44:02

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Re: Re: Electrical problems! in reply to 49....Let me add this!, 07-27-2003 16:08:01

From your description it sounds like your charging system is working as it should. My only concern is charging 20 amps with the lights on - the combined load of lights and 20 amps charge may be more than is good for the generator. You might consider replacing the cutout with a voltage regulator matched to the generator (get a regulator for an MD). The regulator will automatically control battery charging - is better for the battery than the operator guessing where to set the light switch. Also the regulator will limit generator output current to a safe value whether or not the lights are on.

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49 Cubber!

07-27-2003 19:12:18

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Re: Re: Re: Electrical problems! in reply to Bob M, 07-27-2003 16:44:02

Mistype on my part,was suppose to be 10 amps.But why do I get a discharge on low charge and why does the resistor get that hot?I havent changed anything on the switch section of the wiring,nor did I change where the wires were attached before I had problems.The only difference is the cutout is new.I really dont want to change to a regulator as like I said I have 3 on the shelf now that are "supposedly" good and make no doffernce in the way this system is now acting.It was like this for at least two yrs with no problems until it just quit charging.I had the old cutout on when i had it tested and the man who checked it at each shop confirmed it was the cutout.Lets say I give up and change to a regulator,what will I have to change in the wiring?Thanks!

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Bob M

07-28-2003 07:28:52

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Electrical problems! in reply to 49 Cubber!, 07-27-2003 19:12:18

Hey 49 - Ammeter should show a small charge (a couple amps) on low charge with the motor at governed speed. The discharge indication you are getting is puzzling. You sure the ammeter is working correctly? Check by sticking a voltmeter across the battery terminals with the motor running at speed. A reading of 13.5 volts or higher says the battery is being charged.

It's normal for the field resistor to get warm in operation. However it will run pretty hot if you are using the old (6 volt) resistor on 12 volts. (On 12 volts it must dissipate 4x the heat it was originally designed for...)

Changing over to a regulator is straightforward. It gets wired same as the cutout except for the wire from the "F" terminal on the generator. That wire gets relocated from the light switch to the "F" (or "FLD") terminal on the regulator. (The BAT and GEN wires get connected to the regulator same as for the cutout.)

Make sure the regulator is solidly grounded! Running an auxiliary ground wire from the regulator base to a solid ground on the engine or frame is good practice. Also the regulator will last longer if it's physically mounted where it is away from vibration/heat - NOT on the generator if at all possible!!

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gatractorman

07-28-2003 03:22:33

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Electrical problems! in reply to 49 Cubber!, 07-27-2003 19:12:18

That is the function of a resistor they eat voltage and in the process they do get quite hot. If you installed a new one you would actually see it smoke for a minute until all the greasy fingerprints and whatnot got burned off.

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