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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Farmall AV's

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Tom

10-14-2003 16:37:50




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I am new to antique tractors and have I have two questions regarding the Farmall AV. First, are they somewhat rare, or were less produced that the A? I have the opportunity to buy one, the guy selling says it's around a 1950, but here's the story behind it. He used to to farm a good sized plot every year and then two years ago, between uses, some kids came along and stole the radiator cap. Come to find out, the next day it rained. Now the tractor won't run. The owner claims everything else worked great before this unfortunate incident, and he still cares enough about it that all the pipes coming out of the hood are covered with cans. The sheetmetal is pretty good wity only 1 dent. The whole tractor is covered with surface rust, and there is only 1 spot the size of a quarter rusted through in the top of the battery box. The rear tires have good tread but are weather cracked, and the fronts need to be replaced. All tires hold air. He is asking $2300 for it. First, is this price fair? and Second, what might it need to run again seeing it had water enter the radiator cap 2 years ago? Thank you

Tom

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Paul Shuler

10-14-2003 18:33:21




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 Re: Farmall AV's in reply to Tom, 10-14-2003 16:37:50  
He must have meant the rain cap on the exhaust. Now that will make one stop running.A good friend of mine had a brand new rebuild done on his fathers old C. Only had about 10 hours on it when a big storm came along and blew off the can he had on the muffler and by the time he found it was locked up solid. He has had it soaking now for over a year trying to get it loose.



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Merlin

10-14-2003 18:22:34




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 Re: Farmall AV's in reply to Tom, 10-14-2003 16:37:50  
Big John is right, there are some here in La.. You may better off money wise to look further south and make a trip to pick one up. My neighbor has a Super AV for sale for a thousand dollars with a 3 point hitch. It doesn't sound like the tin is in as good a shape as the one you are looking at though, but it is a working tractor.



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Tom

10-15-2003 15:57:26




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 Re: Re: Farmall AV's in reply to Merlin, 10-14-2003 18:22:34  
Merlin-
Does he have any pictures that he can send me? I may be interested in that one as long as everything else works (Transmission, hydraulics). Is he including any implements with it? What is wrong with it if anything? Thank You

Tom



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Merlin

10-15-2003 16:03:56




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 Re: Re: Re: Farmall AV's in reply to Tom, 10-15-2003 15:57:26  
Tom send me an e-mail. I will find out about your questions. But I know there aren't any implements.



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Tom

10-15-2003 17:25:18




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Farmall AV's in reply to Merlin, 10-15-2003 16:03:56  
What is your e-mail address? It will not show it when I click on your name.

Tom



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BIG JOHN

10-14-2003 17:36:02




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 Re: Farmall AV's in reply to Tom, 10-14-2003 16:37:50  
There were not any model A's manfactured after 1947. From 1947 until 1954 they were SUPER A's. The V models were included in with the A's and Super A's. Check under the seat on the left hand suport for the Data plate with the serial #, then you can go the the left side of this page and scrol down to "Research & Info" click on "Serial Numbers" and you can find the year of production.

Water is the main fluid that is poured into the raditor so leaving the raditor cap off and it raining would not have any effect on wheather the tractor would run.

V models are a lot less available because there were a lot less of them produced.

From what you have said it is impossable to tell what it will take to get it running again. Might be that you can find a person to look at it that would be able to tell what is wrong.

As far as price - that will depend on what it really needs to make it run and your location. Here in Kansas it is easier to find Ocean Front Property than it is to find V models. In Flordia, Louisiana and several other states they are very common.

GOOD LUCK

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Reid from CA

10-14-2003 17:34:13




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 Re: Farmall AV's in reply to Tom, 10-14-2003 16:37:50  
First off, it doesn't make a lot of sense for it not to run if the radiator cap was off and then it rained. That shouldn't really matter. Water is used along with coolant to help cool the engine so if it rained with the cap off, the tractor should still run. There might be some other reason for it not running. Check the electrical system. If for some reason the guy meant the distributor cap was off when it rained, then that might be the problem. $2300 sounds a little high. Especially if it doesn't run. I wouldn't go any higher than $2000 for a non-runner. Before you buy or make any deposit, try to hand crank the motor if possible to check to see if the motor is free. If it's stuck and you don't know about it until you get it home, you're in for disappointment. As far as the rust goes, a battery box lid is easy to get and the surface rust will come off with a fine-medium grade wire wheel or sand blasting. Tires are fairly easy as long as you know what you're looking for. Don't get too deep into the price if it needs too much. Make sure it turns over and isn't cracked anywhere before you buy. Good luck.

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Slowpoke

10-15-2003 00:45:51




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 Re: Re: Farmall AV's in reply to Reid from CA, 10-14-2003 17:34:13  
If you don't have the crank, try turning the fan while putting pressure on the fan belt. If it's free, the crankshaft pulley will turn. If free with 3 point, $1000. If it's free, standard lift, 600-800. If it's frozen, 400-450.. Put the tranny in each gear and rock it with the rear wheel. The fan should turn (if the engine is free). Good luck.



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Tom

10-15-2003 10:52:36




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 Re: Re: Re: Farmall AV's in reply to Slowpoke, 10-15-2003 00:45:51  
I went back today to look at some of the recommendations everyone has made. I agree that the radiator cap being off should not matter to whether it runs or not. I tried turning the fan with the belt on the two pulley's - no problem whatsoever. However, I noticed another pulley coming off the bottom of the motor (it had the crank start hole going through it) and that would not turn at all. Should that one move or no? Is that a sign that it is stuck? I put the tractor in all 4 forward gears and in reverse and it rocked fine. Thank you everyone for the quick responses.

Tom

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Slowpoke

10-16-2003 00:55:55




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Farmall AV's in reply to Tom, 10-15-2003 10:52:36  
When turning the fan you must keep the fan belt tight or it will slip when trying to drive the crankshaft. That's the pulley on the bottom. Just grab the fan blade and turn it forward and back. The bottom pulley should move with it. When you rocked the tractor in gear, did you observe the fan turning slightly? If not the engine may be stuck. As a matter of fact why not get a battery and some jumper cables and see if it turns over, if the owner will let you.

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Tom

10-16-2003 03:40:58




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Farmall AV's in reply to Slowpoke, 10-16-2003 00:55:55  
There was no belt going to the bottom pulley. Unless the bottom pully is under alot of compression, it must be stuck. I could not turn it. There was only 1 belt that went from the fan to the generator, and the belt that should have gone to the crankshaft was missing.

Tom



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Slowpoke

10-17-2003 23:44:17




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Farmall AV's in reply to Tom, 10-16-2003 03:40:58  
I wonder why the belt is gone??? Is it so someone looking at the tractor can't test for a stuck engine??? Ask where then belt is. The answer may be "I don't know what happened to it".
I don't know if there is room, but you may be able to place a large screwdriver into the crank ears from the side, between the radiator and engine. Try turning the pulley.Use gloves so you don't scrape your hand. It should turn easy.
Or have a friend rock it in gear while you see if the pulley turns a little.
Buying a tractor with a stuck engine means lots of work, $$ and a long time before it's running.

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