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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Farmall A Upkeep Revisited Still

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Christopher S.

07-09-2004 05:26:23




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Well, folks, I am back again for more sage words. I had the old girl running pretty well after the carburator and gas flow problems were solved and then, as the PTO shear pin issue was resolved I could run the tractor long enough for it to start stalling.

I read through a lot of posts and some of the archives (now that it's back up!) and figured it must be something with the magneto and/or the following ignition parts going to the plugs.

Over the last couple of days, I pulled the distributor cap, checked the plugs, replaced the plugs, adjusted the breaker points, then replaced the breaker points and set the gap on them. I also replaced the rotor.

The funny thing is this: once I opened her up and messed with the breaker points, I haven't been able to get her to run. I will say that getting the points set was a Bit&#! and I am not sure if the manual was serious about checking the timing mark on the flywheel and all that. I was pretty sure that was for setting the timing on the mag and I didn't think that was necessary for just setting the breaker point gap.

Was I wrong about that? What else can I do?

I know it was something I did, but exactly what it was I am uncertain. It was running (if only for 15-25 minutes at a shot) before I started and now it's not firing up.

I AM getting spark from the coil and all the way to the plug wire ends. I am getting fuel flow and I have a full tank. The battery is strong like bull. SO... the question I have is this: If I have to mess with the timing of the mag, did I already screw the pooch on it by getting in there in the first place? Will I have to remove the mag assembly from the tractor to properly align and time it if this is the case?

I await any sage and semi-sane responses.
Christopher

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Christopher S. Dunn

07-10-2004 15:15:09




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 Re: Farmall A Upkeep Revisited Still in reply to Christopher S. Dunn, 07-09-2004 05:26:23  
Imagine, if you will, the sound of trumpets blowing a fanfare in the breeze...

Like I told y'all before, I am sometimes too smart for my own good. I cannot thank you all satisfactorily for the advice, information and support in terms of general interest in seeing these tractors continue to run.

I played with that dang gap setting over and over and then I attempted to set the ignition timing, based in part on your input to the problem. Using the service manual and, in the rare case, the I&T manual, I figured out where and how to check that.

I pulled about 15-20 years of dried oil, mixed with grass, mud and not a few mud-dauber wasp nests out of the bell housing so I could even SEE the timing marks. Once I did that, I quickly set the timing according to the manual. It didn't work.

I played with that dang setting and the distributor position over and over and over. Then, I had a brain storm clear out and I went: Well, it was a timing problem, what if I turned the distributor, regardless of what I see on the marks and whatnot? After all, every now and then it would backfire. I'd done it before to ensure that a full rotation would bring me round to the same spot. DUH! How about halfway?

What do you know? It fired right up and is running excellently now. I mowed about three and a half acres today and stopped only because it's hot and my butt was sore from all the bumping I took over uneven ground. I had a great time every moment. Even when the bolt came off the trottle/governor and my tractor kind of took off on me, I still had fun.

SO, that's that and thanks again. I hope I have repaid your kindness in some laughter based upon my ignorance and sense of good fun with a tractor.

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MAG MAN

07-10-2004 03:46:36




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 Re: Farmall A Upkeep Revisited Still in reply to Christopher S. Dunn, 07-09-2004 05:26:23  
HI, again if you need a mag or coil post and let me know. I can hook you up one way or another. JON



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Mag Man

07-09-2004 07:49:43




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 Re: Farmall A Upkeep Revisited Still in reply to Christopher S. Dunn, 07-09-2004 05:26:23  
Hi, Christopher . Ok Listen to me. Did you pull the Rotor gear out when you were fiddeling around. If so you may have to re time that > And second it sounds like you do not have your plug wires right. Make sure #1 On the cap goes to #1 plug Then clockwise #3 #4 #2 #1 plug at front of motor. Try this and let us know.



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captaink

07-09-2004 07:04:26




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 Re: Farmall A Upkeep Revisited Still in reply to Christopher S. Dunn, 07-09-2004 05:26:23  
It’s been a long time since I messed with points in a mag, but here goes. There is what is called an “impulse” in the mag which retards the spark for starting. This is that “click” that you should hear in the mag when you crank the engine over. The click should go away after the engine starts. This “impulse” also makes it difficult to get the cam that opens the points in the mag rotated to the proper position to set the point gap. Try turning the engine backward until the high point of the cam opens the points as wide as possible. This is where the point gap should be set, check the manual but I think it should be set at 0.014” for a mag. The only reason I can think of for the reference to flywheel position is an aid to get the points to their widest position to set the gap.

If you want to make sure that you have the plug wires on correctly, take out the number 1 spark plug and turn the engine over until you feel air coming out of the spark plug hole as it is coming up on compression. When the air stops coming out of the spark plug hole, check to make sure that the spark plug wire terminal on the mag that the rotor is pointing to is connected to the spark plug that you have removed. Then note the rotation of the mag and attach the rest of the wires accordingly. Firing order is 1-3-4-2.

Since you have spark (I’m assuming that it is a bright blue one) and fuel, then the spark is not being delivered to the cylinder at the correct time.

Hope this helps…

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brianh

07-09-2004 06:52:16




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 Re: Farmall A Upkeep Revisited Still in reply to Christopher S. Dunn, 07-09-2004 05:26:23  
If you turned the engine at all when you had the distributor gears off of the mag, you probably now have the timing wrong (180 degrees out). To check, take out spark plugs 2,3, and 4, leaving #1 in, and crank the engine slowly until it comes up on compression, which will be #1's time to fire. Check to see if the distributor rotor is pointing at the #1 hole in the cap, if not, you will probably have to take the distributor loose from the mag again and turn it 180 degrees until the D shaped hole in the back of the gears lines up with the breaker point shaft so you can reassemble it. Let us know how you make out.... Brian

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Randy in NE

07-09-2004 06:02:00




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 Re: Farmall A Upkeep Revisited Still in reply to Christopher S. Dunn, 07-09-2004 05:26:23  
If it stalls after 15-25 minutes you could have a bad coil. Do you have to let it cool down before it will start or can you start it again right away? If you didn't loosen the lock bolt on the mag then it shouldn't have gotten out of time. There have been some excellent posts in the archives on how to adjust the mag. Is it possible that you have the spark plug wires on in the wrong order/rotation? If you have fuel, air, and spark in the right combination then you should have fire.

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Christopher S. Dunn

07-09-2004 06:33:13




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 Re: Re: Farmall A Upkeep Revisited Still in reply to Randy in NE, 07-09-2004 06:02:00  
That's just the thing. It was only after I redid the gap on the mag breaker points that I couldn't get it to fire up. I didn't remove anything but the distributor cap and the rotor mechanism over the breaker points to set the gap.

As to the heating and starting, I could get it to start right away the first two or three times it would do it, but I couldn't keep mowing, I could barely tow my brush hog. If I waited for about 5 minutes, then I could run the tractor long enough to get it back to the drive and park it, but no mowing. Once it started dying, then I would restart, run for a few minutes, then die again and then I couldn't drive it without it dying. I could only restart it maybe three times and get it into gear, then I had to wait about half an hour.

Like I said, I went through a lot of posts and the most likely cause I could see was the mag points or the rotor/cap/plug wires. I have a good cap, relatively new plug wires, new rotor, plugs and points. I have spark, though it won't fire. I wonder if there is a definitive way to set the points other than what the book indicates?

Anywho, tbanks for the additional troubleshooting info and the possible info for a mag alignment if necessary. Anyone else got anything different for me out there?

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CNKS

07-09-2004 18:43:48




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 Re: Re: Re: Farmall A Upkeep Revisited Still in reply to Christopher S. Dunn, 07-09-2004 06:33:13  
If it runs for 30 min, it is not fuel, points, plugs, wires, etc. You either have a bad coil or a bad condensor, more likely the coil. The adjustment of the mag has nothing to do with it, if it did it would not run for 30 min. When the coil overheats, for lack of better terminology, it breaks down and the engine dies, when it cools off the tractor starts, but it takes less time for it to break down again, so the tractor won't run as long. This is a very classic coil problem.

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CNKS

07-09-2004 18:48:32




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Farmall A Upkeep Revisited Still in reply to CNKS, 07-09-2004 18:43:48  
Also, did you set the points at 0.013 on the HIGH side of the mag cam? It is easy to lose this adjustment when you tighten the screw.



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