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Tractor Lighting

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Mitchissippi

10-06-2004 15:12:57

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The harnesses on the 1066 are in bad shape. I'd like to re-wahr the lights. Might use the old switch, but will replace if I have to. The onliest old wire I would like to use is the pigtail coming out the back of the light bulbs themselves (including the bulbs in the dash).

Any tips on where to tie in for juice, what gauge wahr to use, . . . ?

It ain't got to be OEM lookin', just fairly safe and straight foward.

Any help will be 'preciated accordingly.

In the dark,
Mitch

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Cliff Neubauer

10-07-2004 17:09:01

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Re: Tractor Lighting in reply to Mitchissippi, 10-06-2004 15:12:57

Both of our 1066's have been rewired so the work lights (all lights except the headlights in the grill) are ran through a relay which takes most of the load off the switch. Our light switches used to get very hot and not last very long but this has fixed them.

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Mitchissippi

10-07-2004 17:44:53

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Re: Tractor Lighting in reply to Cliff Neubauer, 10-07-2004 17:09:01

Thanks Cliff, I'll be sure and use a relay in mine if I decide to run all of them on the same circuit.

Mitch

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K.B.-826

10-06-2004 19:25:12

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Re: Tractor Lighting in reply to Mitchissippi, 10-06-2004 15:12:57

Mitch, the hot wire to the light switch comes from the fuse holder in the dash. Can't explain where the hot wire to the fuse holder comes from, but it ties in with somthing in that mess of harnesses and connectors behind the dash. That wire goes through an obscene number of connections before it gets to the switch. You could just as well run a 10 or 12-guage wire from the "B" terminal of the starter solinoid to the fuse holder, 10 or 12-guage from the fuse holder to the switch, then run 14-guage to the lights. In the first on position of the switch, you only want your front two headlights to be on, and they should be dim. Your red tail light and flasher should also be on. Same story at the second on position, only now the front headlights should be bright. At the third position, you should have bright headlights, worklights (in the fender or at the front of the cab), and white taillight.

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Mitchissippi

10-07-2004 08:16:19

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Thanks K.B. in reply to K.B.-826, 10-06-2004 19:25:12

You've answered a lot of my questions.

'preciate it!
Mitch

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Hugh MacKay

10-06-2004 19:19:22

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Re: Tractor Lighting in reply to Mitchissippi, 10-06-2004 15:12:57

Mitch: I did a bit of light adding to tractors and combine a few years back. My suggestion if you are adding more lights, would be leave the old switch completely except for dash and flashers. I found that 1066 and 656 even with factory installation, after hours of night work switch was plenty hot. The factory switch did not last long either.

I found set of 3 switches complete with a fuse for each curciut. That was 30 years ago, cant remember were I got it, probably out of production by now anyway. I had head lights and working lights on 3 curciuts. There were 5 additional lights over factory setup, for a total of 10. I don't think original Farmall wiring would stand that. I liked having lights on 3 circiuts, at least one didn't get left completely in the dark.

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Mitchissippi

10-07-2004 08:37:50

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Here's what I'm thinking . . . in reply to Hugh MacKay, 10-06-2004 19:19:22

If I figger out all the gymnastics of which prong does hi beam and which does lo beam on the head lights, I'd like to run headlights ( hi and lo), and dash off the original switch.

Then run fender and rear light(s) on a separate switch and circuit.

And have flashers on a separate switch and circuit.

I like the idea of having more than one circiut.

How's that sound?

Thanks,
Mitch

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K.B.-826

10-07-2004 17:57:29

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Re: Here's what I'm thinking . . . in reply to Mitchissippi, 10-07-2004 08:37:50

Mitch, the prongs on the headlights don't control high and low beams. One prong is hot and the other is ground, dosen't matter which way you connect them. Same with any other lamp on that tractor, exept the taillight, where one terminal is the hot for the red light, one terminal is the hot for the white light, and the third terminal is ground. It's pretty important that you keep track of which one is which there. A resistor on the back of the light switch controls bright and dim headlights.

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Hugh MacKay

10-07-2004 09:42:38

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Re: Here's what I'm thinking . . . in reply to Mitchissippi, 10-07-2004 08:37:50

Mitch: Sounds good to me, really doesn't matter how you split it up, just go for two or three circiuts.

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