How many spacers on starter armiture (Farmall 560)

The problem as I had posted before is that my starter continues to spin the engine after the starting sequence is initiated even after the dashboard push button is released. I have to pull a battery cable to stop the starter. I've now replaced the solenoid, replaced, cleaned and tightened all grounds, checked the wiring hookups, eliminated the push button switch from the circuit, cleaned and oiled the starter drive, and shimmed the starter with washers. Nothing has worked. Has anyone had this problem before on a Farmall starter and what did you do to solve it? Help!

The amount of washers on the armature depend upon the end play. If you feel/or can move the armature back and forth you may need more washers. As far as the rebuilding, each has his/her own standards. On starters such as you are describing I generally used only one washer. This does NOT include the lock ring you were describing before. I use the washer mainly for protecting that lock ring to prevent wear. On your early style farmall bendixes I ussually used three washers(depending on end play).

As far as the problems you have been having, I too am curious, since you have gone over all the things I would have done. Sorry, no help here!

The solenoid consists of two small and two large posts. See photo of the solenoid at the link below. One small wire connects to each of the small posts so neither of the small posts have two wires connected to it. One of the large posts goes directly into the starter via a short "strap-type" connector. The other large post has two larger wires connected to it. These are the positive battery cable and a smaller wire that I believe runs back to the voltage regulator via the charge indicator.

• Farmall 560 Solenoid

Honestly, the continuity between the "S" terminal and the starter did not strike me as bad but now that you have explained it, something is definately fishy in Denmark. I need to check that again tomorrow. I don't think I touched the solenoid wires when I R&R'ed the head but its been a long winter and I have been somewhat stir-crazed many days.

I can't tell you much about the 560 as it was a tractor left to me by my late father-in-law. The last time he used it was with a JD #46 loader which I still have. The loader is not on the tractor right now. I last worked on the 560 over twenty years ago to plant a few acres of wheat. It has sat unused almost since that time. With the passing of my father-in-law several years ago, the old west Texas farm where I had used the 560 passed to other relatives. I now have little need for a tractor larger than my '52 Ford 8N which I use with a shredder on about 3 acres of downtown property. After looking out the window for the past four years at the old 560 sadly looking as if it had lost its last friend, my wife and I decided we probably should sell it to someone who could use it. To make a long story short, this past winter I got after it and replaced the gauges, the front tires, the seat, a leaking hydraulic manifold, removed the sheet metal and gave it all a good sand-blasting and a new coat of Farmall red and white and repaired everything that was broken or stuck. Putting the old Farmall back into shape has been a lot of fun but electrical problems always drive me up a wall.

You may have some luck someday with a 560 "following" you home. I think mine is like an old riding horse; it wants to stay in the barn it is used to. I will let you know as I get things straightened out.

Ron

Regarding keeping the 560, I have to say I probably have too many irons in the fire now. Along with the Farmall I was given the family's 1924 Dodge Brothers business coupe which I have been unsuccessful at finding the time to restore. This car was purchased new by my grand-daughter's great great grandfather (my wife's grandfather) so it is sort of special to me. It was built during a period of American automotive history when leather seats were not an option and steel wheels were. It is a neat old car.

Below is a picture of the Farmall 560.

I'll be in touch.

• Farmall 560 LP

Well it's been a long hard trip to the solution but I finally have it. Before installing the new starter drive, I decided to try some other things first. First I checked the old solenoid and found that it too had continuity between the "S" terminal and the wire going into the starter. Frustrated I decided to again try to operate the starter by just sitting it up on the tractor (uninstalled). As before it worked perfectly, spinning when the starter button was pushed and stopping when the button was released. Next I decided to see if the armature washers thing would work since the starter seemed to be missing spacer washers since it had been rebuilt. I found some washers that perfectly fit the armature shaft and added them to the engine-end of the starter armature shaft. I actually added a very thin washer on the outside (engine-side), then added the normal washer with the spring clamp in the middle, and then a washer of normal thickness on the inside toward the starter drive gear. I then reinstalled the starter and wires, said a little prayer, and great balls of fire, the starter worked as if nothing had ever been wrong! It seems that the lack of sufficient spacers on the end of the armature was allowing the starter drive to move too far forward into the ring gear. I cannot explain why shimmng the starter before did not work, or why the starter worked when I first got it back from the rebuilder then quit right after I reinstalled the head. Were it a Ford I would say that it is just fooling around with me. Me and Fords always go round and round on simple stuff.

I only have a few things to button up on the old tractor, but the 560 is running again. I've still got some final lifter adjustments to make but this should be no problem.

I sort of doubt anyone else will ever experience this wierd starter problem, but if so, there it is. Whew!

Ron