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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Painting Farmall White C

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Farm Girl

09-03-2005 17:06:11




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This tractor was owned by my father and purchase in 1950. It is a White Demo. We have stripped the paint down to the metal and have applied a red-rust colored primer. Then primered again with a white oil base primer. When the enamel is sprayed, after a while the light pink comes through. Do we need some type of a barrier before the final coats of white enamel?




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Jim Lockhart

09-03-2005 23:10:42




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 Re: Painting Farmall White C in reply to Farm Girl, 09-03-2005 17:06:11  
Don't use a red/rust colored primer to spray white paint over,use a primer closer to the color of the paint you want to use example I would use a light gray primer or even a white primer(if you can find it).Just my 2 cents.



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Farm Girl

09-04-2005 05:44:43




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 Re: Painting Farmall White C in reply to Jim Lockhart, 09-03-2005 23:10:42  
We first used a white oil primer and had a great amount of bleed through. Contacted the paint manufacture and they suggested we use the red/rust primer first, followed by the white primer. It killed the heavy bleed through, but now we see light pink areas in the paint. I have even thought about using a light gray coat after the white primer. Anybody else have any suggestions.



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CNKS

09-04-2005 14:00:28




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 Re: Painting Farmall White C in reply to Farm Girl, 09-04-2005 05:44:43  
The key is to use compatible products, then you don't get bleed through. I would use a dark primer under white, and a light primer under red -- Then you can see when you have complete coverage, and with compatible products from the same manufacturer, it won't change.



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Farm Girl

09-04-2005 18:10:22




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 Re: Painting Farmall White C in reply to CNKS, 09-04-2005 14:00:28  
We are using compatible products directed by the manufacture. How many coats do you think we should put on to get complete coverage?
Thanks



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Farm Girl

09-07-2005 12:08:44




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 Re: Painting Farmall White C in reply to Farm Girl, 09-04-2005 18:10:22  
Thanks to all you guys for the help. We put on more coats of paint and that seems to help. And, Yes we painted the parts first, will reasemble and repaint a last coat and touch up. It is starting to look really good. Thanks again.



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CNKS

09-04-2005 19:57:24




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 Re: Painting Farmall White C in reply to Farm Girl, 09-04-2005 18:10:22  
Quality paint will cover in three coats. I paint all parts separately and reassemble. Then touch up any bolts, etc. I am not familiar with the paint you are using. But if you buy major brands such as PPG or DuPont, they have instruction sheets that tell you EXACTLY what to do. They give instructions even to the grit of sandpaper to use. They are foolproof to the point that any problems are a malfunction of the person doing the painting, literally. If you follow the instuctions you won't have any problems, except to the extent of your painting skills. I make lots of mistakes -- but it's not PPG's fault, it's mine.

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Paul in Mich

09-04-2005 18:30:14




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 Re: Painting Farmall White C in reply to Farm Girl, 09-04-2005 18:10:22  
Farm girl, I apply 4 coats of finish paint. The first 3 coats I paint with the accessories off the tractor, giving both the tractor itself and the accessories the same number of coats, then assemble the accessories and give a final 4th coat to everything. There have been times that because of accessability after the accessories have been reinstalled, that in addition to the 4th coat, a final touchup be made, which may not necessarily mean painting all the tractor, but those places that may have either been missed or not assessable on the 4th coat because of the danger of rubbing against some surface already painted.

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CNKS

09-03-2005 19:34:24




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 Re: Painting Farmall White C in reply to Farm Girl, 09-03-2005 17:06:11  
The best procedure is to use an epoxy primer over bare metal, then topcoat the cast. Use the same epoxy primer on the bare sheet metal, then several coats of a sandable surfacer followed by topcoat. If you use all products from the same manufacturer, and follow the manufacturers instructions there will be no bleed through. Or, you can use a stand-alone sealer made by the same company as the primer you used. If you did not use hardener in your paint it is not cured, so it is probably best to chemically strip it and start over, in my opinion.

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