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SPARK, BUT NO START

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jason smith

03-20-2006 19:57:27

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I have a 1940 farmall H that i recently put a new head and rings on. well,needless to say, it won't start. It has spark and is timed properly(i have timed it before and it has new spark plugs).I was also extremely careful to realign the marks on the camshaft and the distrubuter asembley( which i didn't take apart at all). I tried taking out the spark plugs and spraying in starter fluid to at least see if it would fire. It didn't. I took apart the carb (which i had degreased and painted) and made sure the float wasn't stuck or something obvious like that. I had also ground off all the rust from the manifold and painted that. The gass runs freely from the line when you take it off the carb. any ideas will be a great help. Also, could someone tell me the settings(in turns) for the mixture screws on bottom and front of carb. I set the valve tappet clearance at 0.014 as the manual suggested. The only thing i did with the governer was take it off and clean the outside. the engine has all new gaskets and the head is torqued to the recommended settings. thanks alot, you guys are great.

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J.J. from Afton

03-07-2009 09:16:47

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Re: F12 front steel wheel in reply to MTC, 03-07-2009 07:06:10

Yes those wheels are very rare, so is the weight that is bolted in the center of it. The wheels like that in the front and small hub flat spokes on the back were used on the early F-12s, some that had the Waukasha engine and than the first ones with the IH eninge. Its really hard to find them like yours where the outer part has not been cut off and a rim welded on.

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Al Dial

03-21-2006 07:40:59

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Re: SPARK, BUT NO START in reply to jason smith, 03-20-2006 19:57:27

Can you help me with setting the timing on the two gears inside the mag?
Thanks for your help

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Larry Condon

03-21-2006 06:17:13

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Re: SPARK, BUT NO START in reply to jason smith, 03-20-2006 19:57:27

Compression!!!!

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Wayne Swenson

03-21-2006 06:16:52

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Re: SPARK, BUT NO START in reply to jason smith, 03-20-2006 19:57:27

First, make sure you have fresh fuel; over 30 days & today"s gas begins to turn sour.
Pull the plugs & squirt some motor oil in each hole and crank the engine to restore compression.
Now, make sure the timing is set correctly. Late timing (too small of a gap or incorrect setting) will act like too rich carburetor problems.
Timing should be set so the points open (set the gap first, .016" for battery ignition) when the timing pointer is between the double marks on the pulley; use the crank or turn the fan by hand (switch off) to locate the marks. With the switch off; use an ohmmeter or self powered test light to verify the point opening instant. This can be done with either #1 or #4 at TDC. Loosen the 2 distributor hold-down cap screws and rotate the body of the distributor in the direction of normal rotor travel until the points are closed (test light is on, ohmmeter reads very low ohms). Now rotate the distributor body backwards until the points JUST open; lock the cap screws and you are good to go. It is CRITICAL for the points have to be CLEAN and ADJUSTED first. If you have a 12 volt test light, turn on the switch after locating TDC and follow the same procedure. The light is on with points closed and off when the points open.
Needless to say, points, rotor, cap, & wires have to be in decent shape.

Now start the engine & warm it up in NEUTRAL and BRAKES LOCKED; run at WOT (wide open throttle) and turn the high-speed adjusting screw in & out to find the "sweet spot" where the engine runs its fastest & smoothest. Turn this high-speed screw out an extra 1/2--3/4 turn for power. Idle the engine down & set the idle speed. Now turn the idle mixture screw in to richen, out to lean so the idle is smoothest (this is an AIR adjusting screw so works opposite of the main fuel screw on the bottom of the carb). Re-adjust the idle speed. Perform the carb adjusting procedure another time to be sure all mixtures are correct.
Don"t forget that in the winter your air cleaner may cause richness due to cold oil in the cup or even ice blocking the air passage.

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jason smith

03-24-2006 16:49:35

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Re: SPARK, BUT NO START in reply to Wayne Swenson, 03-21-2006 06:16:52

Thanks a million man, dumped some oil in the plug holes and it started on second try! Runs great now.

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Dellbertt

03-21-2006 05:47:49

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Re: SPARK, BUT NO START in reply to jason smith, 03-20-2006 19:57:27

Air
Fuel
Compression
Spark

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El Toro

03-21-2006 03:55:29

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Re: SPARK, BUT NO START in reply to jason smith, 03-20-2006 19:57:27

You need to remove No1 sparkplug and bring No1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke. While someone hand cranks the engine hold your thumb over the plug hole until you feel pressure against your thumb. Then look for the notch on the damper pulley. Slowly keep rotating engine until the notch is aligned with the pointer.

Then remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor is at the No1 plug tower. Your plug wires should be in this firing order on your distributor cap if the rotor turns CW. Hal
PS: No1 sparkplug is near the radiator

2-1
4-3

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Bobby in SC

03-21-2006 02:31:31

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Re: SPARK, BUT NO START in reply to jason smith, 03-20-2006 19:57:27

Double check your spark, high tension lead from the coil, plug wires, even go as far as inserting one of the plugs into one of the plug wires,ground the plug and see if you have spark. If so, you probably inserted the distributor incorrectly.

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Jerry/MT

03-20-2006 20:51:57

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Re: SPARK, BUT NO START in reply to jason smith, 03-20-2006 19:57:27

What's your spark look like? It should be a fat, bluish spark when checked at the end of the plug wire with a paper clip in the boot and the paper clip held about a 1/4" from a good ground. If it's yellowish or orangey, you need to find out why by checking out the primary ignition circuit. If you do have a fat bluish spark, the timing has to be right and you have to have fuel to the cylinders. Most distributors can be installed 180 o off since the crankshaft rotates 2 revs per each power stroke. Make sure that when your #1 cylinder is near the top of the compression stroke, the distributor rotor is pointing at the #1 plug. Finally make sure that you have the plugs wires in the right firing order for your engine.
Hope thsi helps.

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shrps74

03-20-2006 20:15:40

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Re: SPARK, BUT NO START in reply to jason smith, 03-20-2006 19:57:27

I know this will sound dumb, but check to see if you have the distributor cap put on 180 degrees off. Probably not, but won't hurt to double check. BobG in VA

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sHan,TN

03-20-2006 20:04:07

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Re: SPARK, BUT NO START in reply to jason smith, 03-20-2006 19:57:27

i would say that if you got spark and fuel it should fire unless you dont have any compression. i would check the compression with a gauge and see what you got, if the timing is off your valves will be open at the wrong time and not build up compression to make it fire, just my 2 cents,

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