*Super -M- again*

Well, the M still won't run.
I tried to start it and when I let off on the start button, it continued to turn over. I had to disconnect the + cable in order for it to stop turning over.
Is the new push start button malfunctioning ? Or is it the new on/off switch malfunctioning ? Or both ?

I took the distributor out and examined the stud bolt and the insulation on both inside and outside of distributor and did not detect anything there appearing wrong. I also made sure the points are set @ .020

When I tried starting the M again, it would backfire and this would be incorrect timing, but I couldn't get it to start so I couldn't set the timing.
I'd forgot to make a mark where the distributor was set at before removal.

Thanks again for your help! gatorhide

Either your push button start switch is bad or your battery is low and that can/will cause the switch to weld up and cause that. As for timing yes you can time it at least close to it. Pull the cap off but leave the rotor on. Turn the engine over till you have #1 at TDC and look where the rotor is. Where it points will be #1 and then hook up the wires as per the firing order and it should run. Now if you happen to get it at TDC but in the exhaust stroke then all you have to do is switch the wires out 180 and it then should run

Well here goes;
The start button is of one of two possible types.
It either it has a mechanical switch mounted on the light bar, with heavy cables running to it from the battery, and to the starter, with a #10ga wire going to the electrical box from the battery connected post, or it could have the same heavy switch located down at the base of the steering support with a rod to push it. Or it has a starter relay on the starter with a small push button to energize the solenoid. (not stock, but common when modifications are done)
If it has a Relay, it could be stuck, or the small push button could be shorted at its terminals.
If it is a large full current switch with a big button, it is probablynot good from the factory. It should have a large enough spring to keep it from welding as old indicates (correctly)
If it measures zero resistance, it is stuck and a new one (return for replacement) is in order.
The distributor (when stock) is setup so that the rotor points to 1:30 (O'clock) when looking from the rear of the distributor just as #1 cylinder(counting from front of engine) gets to TDC. The distributor rotates clockwise, and the 4:30 position has #3 cylinder in it. 7:30 is 4, and 10:30 is #2 plug.

Take out all the plugs.
With ignition off, Rotate the engine till air is pushed out of #1 plug hole. (a thumb in the hole works)
Put a 7" piece of copper wire down the hole to "feel" the piston top. It should be close to the top. Move the engine (with the fan blade) till the piston is at the top (It could go either way a little).
The timing pointer should now be very close to the mark on the front pulley.
Set it so it is on the mark, and take the wire out.
the rotor should be pointing to 1:30.
if it is not, pull the distributor out and make it so.
leave the distributor a little loose at the pinch bolts to allow it to turn some as you set the timing.
With the ignition off, put an ohm meter on the distributor side terminal and ground the other lead.
Turn the distributor a little bit CW the resistence should be zero (or very near).
Now rotate the distributor until the resistance goes to infinite (open).
Just at that point, the points just break open.
That is the moment of ignition, so tighten it down right at the point of the change from no resistence to high resistence.
Put the plug wires in as described above, and install the plugs, and it will run!
Jim

Thanks old, I'll follow your advise! gatorhide

Thanks,for your lenghty reply,I'll give it a try tomorrow! gatorhide

proper way is jim's advise, reminds me when in class had to disassemble crysler 225 slant six engine to bare block, mic. all bores, such as camshaft, crankshaft, cyl's,valves and guides, proper valve adjustment. basically you measured everthing possible then put the engine all together. then when done had instructor walk over to test stand, turn key and start motor. and yes it started right up. another thing is all torques were set to 3/4 torque to save on the threads, because the next class would repeat the same procedure. those engines were apart and together many many times.