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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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HARRY FERGUSON:FERGUSON 30

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MARC, IN.

07-16-2004 10:22:37




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I RECENTLY PURCHASED A FERGUSON 30 (PLATE ON THE SIDE OF THE HOOD.) THE SELLER WAS NOT SURE OF THE YEAR. HE TOLD ME IT WAS A '55 AND THAT IT WAS MASSEY-HARRIS. ALL OF THE PARTS ARE STAMPED WITH HF. I AM HAVING TROUBLE FINDING A MANUAL FOR THIS TRACTOR AND AM HAVING SOME RUNNING PROBLEMS WITH IT. IT SAT FOR ABOUT 5YRS. THE SELLER PUT A NEW BATTERY, ALT., BELT, POINTS, FUEL LINE IN IT AND HAD THE CARB. REBUILT BY A LOCAL JD TRACTOR DEALER. I PUT NEW SPARKS PLUGS IN IT. IT HAS FRESH GAS AND THERE IS NO CORROSION IN THE TANK. IT ALWAYS STARTS FINE. IT IDLES A BIT ROUGH AND AFTER DRIVING FOR A FEW MINUTES IT WANTS TO FALL ON IT'S FACE AND DIE. AGAIN IT STARTS BACK UP EASILY. I HAVE NOT DONE COMPRESSION CHECKS ON IT NOR DO I KNOW WHAT A GOOD PRESSURE SHOULD BE SINCE I CAN'T FIND ANY BOOKS ON IT. I'M THINKING THE CARB. MIGHT NEED SOME ADJUSTING. THE IGNITION SYSTEM IS IN GOOD ORDER. THERE IS A BROKEN SPRING ON THE THROTTLE LINKAGE. I DO NOT WANT TO REPLACE IT WITHOUT KNOWING WHAT THE RIGHT PART SHOULD BE. THE PTO LEVER IS ALSO STUCK "ON." ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED. THANKS,MARC.

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Kae Rae

07-24-2004 06:33:18




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 Re: HARRY FERGUSON:FERGUSON 30 in reply to MARC, IN., 07-16-2004 10:22:37  
I have a Harry Ferguson-?? the # on the engine block is Z120A600. The Serial number by the wheel is TO 23339. I understand the importance of the OCR but where do I get it? Also the whole 3pt hitch is set up for plowing and I want to primarily bushhog. The "adjustable" lifting(?) bar is frozen and the other is bent. I am in the process of repairing them, or should I get fixed bars? in order to "lift" the bushhog when necessary? Long story short I need a manual,w/PICTURES!! Please help!
Thanks,

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JD/Mo

07-17-2004 08:57:08




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 Re: HARRY FERGUSON:FERGUSON 30 in reply to MARC, IN., 07-16-2004 10:22:37  
Just a couple of observations, James UK, over here there called flashlights ( not a critisism), just if he sticks a cutting torch in there he might cause more problems, and second, my to-30 ran a lot better and longer after cleaning the air cleaner system and useing new oil. It was full of wasps dirt and seeds.



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Jerry/MT

07-16-2004 12:57:11




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 Re: HARRY FERGUSON:FERGUSON 30 in reply to MARC, IN., 07-16-2004 10:22:37  
First let's find out what machine we are dealing with. Ferguson 30's (TO-30) were built from 1950 through 1954. Right above the steering wheel is a metal plate with a serial number stamped on it (e.g. TO 137845). Once you have that number, the Research & Info section to the right on this page can tell you what model and year you have. If you have a TO-30, the engine data plate mounted on the left hand side of the engine will identify it as a Continental Z129. Once you know what model you have you can order up the manuals. I would suggest you get the Ferguson manuals since they are, in my opinion more thorough than the IT manuals. I would also advise you to get the owners manual, the parts manual and the shop manual. They maybe be spendy buthe first time you avoid a shop visit, they will pay for themselves.
Regarding your running situation(or lack thereof), make sure you have fuel and fire. Pull a plug wire, put a paper clip in the plug socket hold it near a good ground and crank the engine with the ignition on. You should have a nice fat bluish white spark. If you don't, your ignition system is weak. You'll need to checkthe primary and secondary parts of the system.
If you do have a nice bluish white spark, check the fuel delivery system. There are three filters in the fuel sytem; a screen in the tank, a metal stacked plate filter (or a screen) above the sediment bowl and the "secret filter" in the fuel elbow on the carburetor. At the bottom of the carb is a big plug. With the fuel valve on the sediment bowl wide open, take this plug out and check the fuel delivery to the carb. It should come out like a cow peein' on a flat rock so hold something under the plug to catch all that $2/gallon fuel. If it doesn't, check the filters and the fuel line for restrictions. If it does, you'll need to check the carb float level. These old Marvel-Schebler carbs are really sensitive to float setting.
Regarding compression, with the throttle held wide open, I agree with Jasmes, UK, 80-85 psishould be the minimum. Check it again after puting in a couple of tablespoons of clean oil in each cylinder. If the pressures rise uniformly than your valves and head gasket should be OK. If not, you might have a problem in these subsytems.
Let us know what you find and we can help you more. First, find the model of machine and order the manuals. Second, do the tests I recommended. Third, report back the results.

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MARC,IN

07-19-2004 23:29:26




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 Re: Re: HARRY FERGUSON:FERGUSON 30 in reply to Jerry/MT, 07-16-2004 12:57:11  
I DO NOT HAVE A SERIAL NUMBER PLATE AT THE STEERING WHEEL. THERE ARE FOUR LITTLE HOLES JUST ABOVE THE STEERING WHEEL. I ASSUME THAT THIS IS WHERE THE PLATE SHOULD HAVE BEEN. I CHECKED THE LEFT SIDE OF THE ENGINE BLOCK AND FOUND THE NUMBER Z129 A 600. THIS NUMBER IS STAMPED INTO THE BLOCK. THERE LOOKS TO BE A PLATE ON THE BLOCK BUT I'LL HAVE TO REMOVE THE PAINT TO SEE WHAT IT READS. IS THERE ANY OTHER PLACE WHERE A SERIAL NUMBER WOULD BE?

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Jerry/MT

07-20-2004 19:09:21




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 Re: Re: Re: HARRY FERGUSON:FERGUSON 30 in reply to MARC,IN, 07-19-2004 23:29:26  
If you have the Z129 engine, you'll also have an external oil filter on the right side of the engine. That will make it a TO-30 unless someone put together a composite.The casting numbers don't always indicate the engine since some of the castings are used on both the Z120 and the Z129. The engine data plate will firm up the model.



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gshadel

07-16-2004 12:56:42




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 Re: HARRY FERGUSON:FERGUSON 30 in reply to MARC, IN., 07-16-2004 10:22:37  
There are two or three links at the top of this web site for manuals. Click on any of them to order a manual. I see them on Ebay all the time too. You want a manual for a Ferguson TO-30. It sounds like fuel flow problem to me too. Take out the drain plug on the bottom of your carb and let it drain into a can. The carb itself hold a lot of gas so you have to run it several minutes to see what your fuel flow it like from the tank. Gas should run right out and not slow down. If it slows down after a minute or so, that is a problem. Take the fuel shutoff off the gas tank, it probably has a screen on it, inside the gas tank. Clean and inspect that fuel shutoff real good and blow air though, especially since it has been sitting a long time. There should be another screen in the fuel line elbow going into the carb, hopefully that was cleaned when the carb was rebuilt.
Since a JD dealer did the work, it's hard to say, maybe that JD dealer sabotaged the carb. when they re-built it (just kidding). If all that checks out fine and you still have trouble, might want to check your spark again right when the tractor dies. Might have a condenser, coil or ignition switch getting hot and shorting out, then it runs OK again when it cools down a little.
I'm no expert on the PTO, I'll leave that for some one else. Get that manual, you can get just about any parts you could possibly need. You will have that thing purring like a kitten in no time.
Good luck!

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James, UK

07-16-2004 11:45:33




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 Re: HARRY FERGUSON:FERGUSON 30 in reply to MARC, IN., 07-16-2004 10:22:37  
Oooh, that was LOUD.

Trying to die after a few minutes sounds like fuel blockage of some sort - check all filters.

Manual you are looking for should be for a TE (sorry, TO 30) I think it is called over there.

Idling rough is what they do - in the days before electronic ignition they all did it, we are just spoiled today, don't worry about it.

Good compression in my view is 85psi or better.

Broken spring? Which one? Descriptions help.

Stuck PTO lever could just mean that something has jumped out of alignment - easy to fix when you have the manual, or just remove the RH side plate (opposite the lever side) and have a look with a torch first (everything switched off).

Above all, DON'T PANIC it will be OK

HTH

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MARC IN.

07-18-2004 01:00:14




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 Re: Re: HARRY FERGUSON:FERGUSON 30 in reply to James, UK, 07-16-2004 11:45:33  
THE SPRING IS AT THE TOP FRONT OF THE CYLINDER HEAD AND EXTENDS HORIZONTALY TO THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE TRACTOR TO A LONG PIECE OF LINKAGE. THE LINKAGE RUNS THE LENGTH OF THE BLOCK BACK TO THE THROTTLE CONTROL. THE THROTTLE LEVER HAS A TENDANCY TO WORK IT'S WAY DOWN TO A LOWER RPM ON IT'S OWN. THIS MIGHT HAVE SOMETHING TO DUE WITH THE LACK OF THIS SPRING. ???



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James, UK

07-18-2004 09:59:28




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 Re: Re: Re: HARRY FERGUSON:FERGUSON 30 in reply to MARC IN., 07-18-2004 01:00:14  
Hmmm, I think the spring is an unofficial, er, added extra to overcome the problem you have identified with the throttle lever.

On the dash panel there is a round disk - behind this is (or should be) a cork disk which provides the friction needed to stop your throttle lever getting ideas of its own. Adjusting the linkage (tightening the disk against the cork)should overcome the problem.

The manual you are going to buy will tell you exactly how to do this - simple job.

If you need a new piece of cork they are available - to avoid drastic surgery slit the cork, slide it over the rod behind the disk, and glue the slit together - then adjust as per the manual.

HTH

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Henry

07-17-2004 20:16:23




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 Re: Re: HARRY FERGUSON:FERGUSON 30 in reply to James, UK, 07-16-2004 11:45:33  
Stalling after running a few minutes could be caused by a bad condensor, located in the distributor. It may check OK when cold but when warmed up will short out and cause failure. Re-start quite quickly, only to repeat the same event again and etc.



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