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HYD REBUILD

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TRAY

04-15-2005 09:09:40

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I have a 1956 TO-35 .My hydraulics are bleeding off as soon as the motor is shut off with or without a implement .Also after using for sometime they get weak and have trouble going all the way up .After purchasing I replaced the fluid with the required mineral oil and got some improvement .I would like to do a top end rebuild my question is what would be the likely parts I would need to replace .I dont feel the problems are severe but I think I can make it operate better .Thanks for any ideas .

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John(UK)

04-15-2005 09:35:26

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Re: HYD REBUILD in reply to TRAY, 04-15-2005 09:09:40

You say "top end" rebuild, what you mean by that...do you mean the ram cylinder in the top cover, its not really likely to be that although not impossible, it is more likely to be the pump from what you say, possibly the Control Valve has got a leakage and the valves in the chambers may be past their sell by date too.You can get parts to overhaul these pumps or a complete new pump, don't try to fit valves in your old side chambers, it's just not worth all the effort. Probably needs new side chambers and Control Valve, new Safety valve and New Pistons or maybe just a solitary "O" ring as the fault could be caused by them all. But you need to check it out first. If you email me at : - fergusontractors at tiscali dot co dot uk
I will send you a check sheet on how to find the leaks, what to look for etc. and other stuff. When you mail tell me what you need.

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Dave Stacy

11-20-2005 21:12:50

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Re: HYD REBUILD in reply to John(UK), 04-15-2005 09:35:26

I have a 1957 to 20 Mf and i have very bad hydr leaks and would like any info on rebuilding the control valve and where to get the parts thanks

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melam

04-15-2005 11:16:08

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Re: HYD REBUILD in reply to John(UK), 04-15-2005 09:35:26

John would you send me the same info, I have a "59 TO35 and it exhibits the exact same symptoms, lift drops completely in maybe 20 seconds after you shut it off and when it gets hot, will barely lift at all. I bought a set of rings for the ram cylinder, but have not replaced them yet.

Thanks in advance.

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John(UK)

04-15-2005 11:36:33

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Re: HYD REBUILD in reply to melam, 04-15-2005 11:16:08

you will have to email me at: - fergusontractors at tiscali dot co dot uk
so I have your email address to send it to and just tell me again what you need when you mail please.

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Fergie2035

04-15-2005 19:02:49

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Re: HYD REBUILD in reply to John(UK), 04-15-2005 11:36:33

Mine was leaking really badly and wouldn't lift even the 2 furrow plough when warmed up and running. I rebuilt the pump last year (or maybe 2 years ago now) using the Sparex kit which was about �150. Problem solved. Main problem on mine was that the valve seats in the pump valve chambers which were completely knackered.

One concern I had when thinking about the repair was that Sparex kit says it isn't suitable for older 35's prior to a certain serial number. Mine was in the "not suitable" range. I found that this is misleading as the kit can be used perfectly well. Only thing that's different on the early tractors is that pump pistons are 20mm bore rather than 23mm as they are on the next generation ones so it isn't quite "as original".

If pump is the older type with 20mm pistons, what you'll might find is that the pistons supplied in kit won't fit the existing valve chambers but you get a pair of new 23mm bore chambers anyway so it doesn't matter - you're junking the old ones and fitting the new chambers and pistons as a pair anyway. Rebuilt pump has slightly higher output because of bigger pistons and lifts a bit faster if you keep the original lift ram.

Later 35s had the bigger pistons anyway and so it makes no difference to them.

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John(UK)

04-16-2005 06:38:20

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Re: HYD REBUILD in reply to Fergie2035, 04-15-2005 19:02:49

That is the normal problem with this pump, this is partly due to the fact that they no longer have the check valve to stop the chamber valves carrying the weight like the TE and TO20/30 had and of course the extra pressure involved. It has been found that a lot of the leak-down on these pumps is due to wear on the control valves too and because the check valve is no longer fitted it escapes through the worn washers on the valve. You can in some instances re-con. the Pump and not change the control valve to save expense and it will still leak-down so you feel as though your efforts have been wasted. Upgrading the pistons to the later type is perfectly acceptable and most people do that now, having the piston rings fitted on them makes for a more positive oil displacement, again it comes back to the extra pressure involved, what they could do with the TE/TO20 pumps they cant do it with these purely due to the extra pressures involved. One thing we do notice is a lot of operators do not really know how to operate this hydraulic system correctly due to having two levers to play with, getting them set wrong on this system causes undue pressures that cause the relief valve to be continuously blowing off, which soon reduces the pump pressure. Not having the levers set correctly also stops the draft control from allowing proper weight transfer from the implement which results in wheel-slip. I have the Instructions written out on an Information sheet for this very purpose because I am very often asked how to do it. If anyone is considering this repair, don't waste your time by trying to recondition the valve chambers, it just isn't worth it, they very rarely work as they are too worn, always fit new pistons and chambers.

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