Anyone ever unstuck a leveling box fork ?

Part# NCA-579-B is stuck to NCA-585-B. I found a nice complete one hanging at the farm, looks to be for a later model, must be '65 and up, but it is too short and the hole diameter for the pin (part # 9N-595 pin) is a different diameter where it pins to the rock shaft, thought I found one, think again LOL ! The obvious answer is to replace the unit, but thought I'd give it a shot before doing so.

The only time I've ever got close to getting under the rotary mower is to give the blades a sharpen, but I can lay flat outside of the deck area and reach under to the blades quite easily, using short 6x6 timbers, while it's still hooked to the 3 pt pto disconnected. With 2 6x6's perpendicular to the deck, can't fall side ways, but the timbers could roll forward if nudged enough. Would have to build cribbing/falswork under it to be completely safe. Other than sharpening, I flip it over to work on it, front end loader is indispensible for this purpose, without it, would be real difficult to work on.

Time to have at it, see if mine will free up, ought to be interesting, I think the entire assembly is like $100 for one of these, I had to pass one up I saw at the parts place I went to.

I was avoiding heat, afraid of embrittling the steel, knowing these parts take some shock and abuse, but I'll follow what you guys did, give er some heat, and keep working on it, hard to believe the threads would be crossed on something like this,so maybe with some elbow grease it will free up, will let you know how it goes, sure will be nice to have use of it, the 2 bottom won't flop the furrow over, it's adjusted too high on that side.

Also.. heating metal and allowing it to cool slowly actually increases the ductility of it.. If you heted it then quenched it.. it might embrittle it.. etc..

grain and crystal size is smaller when cooled fast.. larger when cooled slow.

soundguy

On the other, 50ys of hard grease and dirt and some rust got to it.

I took it of fthe tractor and turned it upside down and soaked with PB blaster, then set in a shallow tray with some diesel and atf fluid in it... left it that way for a day..

Came back set it on my anvil, and gave some medium whacks downt he side of the casting.. nothing bad.. just whack.. though i did use a non maring copepr hammer.

For kicks.. try greasing the joint.. may or may not take any.

In any case. then i heated the fork with a propane torch.. i had the rod clamped in the vice and once i got the casting hot enough to smoke the grease and oil in it, i put a pipe wrench to her and she unscrewed fine... though sticky.

Washed parts in washer, and chased old threads on rod and in casting as best I could.. then i heated the rod and bent int he vice.. touched up rod with a file to take vice marks out, changed out grease fitting for good measure, shot some grease in it.. then greased rod and threaded in.. cleans up crank box and regreased as well.

Had another that needed extensive welding and thread work.. but that's another story..

Still got the 2 i rebuilt.. workin' fine..

Soundguy