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63 FSM difficulty starting

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Mark

12-26-2001 15:53:27

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Ok, Y'all tired of me yet??

I have a 63 FSM I bought. The previous owner admitted that the engine was tired. He said he had to tow start it to get it on the trailer for delivery. Once I took posession, I noticed that the batteries were in very bad condition (cases cracked, plates looked crusty, etc)
I have replaced the batteries and when I crank the engine, exhaust is produced, but no run....
I removed the bottom of the air breather, and SUPRISE....nothing but WATER!

I am very much a novice at this, but is it highly likely that water instead of oil in the breather will keep it from starting?? What weight oil do I need for the breather, and how full do I fill it??

Thanks!

Mark

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Paolo

01-03-2002 03:38:18

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Re: 63 FSM difficulty starting in reply to Mark, 12-26-2001 15:53:27

I own a 62 FSM and I've the same trouble when temperature is below 0� C. I use hair dryer to avoid gas goes frozen.
I hope it's usefull for you too.
Bye
Paolo

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Mark

12-28-2001 15:11:31

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Re: 63 FSM difficulty starting in reply to Mark, 12-26-2001 15:53:27

OK, another question. When sitting in the seat, which direction should the engine turn?? This tractor has had an alternator conversion, but after looking over my manuals that I recieved today, it indicates that it should be a + ground. The old batteries that were in it were - ground so that is how I setup the replacement. Right now, when it cranks, it turns to the left (counter-clockwise). Is this correct, or should it turn to the right (clockwise)??

Thanks again,
Mark

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bcPA

12-27-2001 19:04:55

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Re: 63 FSM difficulty starting in reply to Mark, 12-26-2001 15:53:27

I also have a super major made in 1963. It is one powerful machine. It came with a oversized 14 ft hoe. Make sure you have the right weight oil in the engine and do all you can think of to make the starters job easier. I have heard that the starters and injector pumps are hard to find and expensive. Also that more than one fsm has been junked because of a dead pump or starter. I give mine just a little sniff of either and it starts right up. But when it is cold like below 40 I let it sit, and dont even try to start it. If necessary you can help it with some type of block heater and I like to use a hair dryer to give a cold eng warm air for combustion to make it start easier. My cummins in my mack really started easy when I added a hot box to preheat the antifreeze. After 20 minuites of hot box operation in minus 20 degree weather it started like it was 70 degrees out. That was great for the batteries and starter. good luck.

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Craig Wissink

12-27-2001 07:54:23

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Re: 63 FSM difficulty starting in reply to Mark, 12-26-2001 15:53:27

Mark, some additional comments;
-breather, fill to the indicated level with any good grade of motor oil. I usually use a 10W30 oil.

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Craig Wissink

12-27-2001 07:50:13

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Re: 63 FSM difficulty starting in reply to Mark, 12-26-2001 15:53:27

Mark, I don't think water in the breather will prevent your FSM from starting.
Here are some things you should prior to running the engine;
- check engine crankcase oil for proper level and visual condition of the oil, if it looks milky, change it and replace with recommnded type and weight.
- check radiator for proper level, fill with 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water if you live in a cold climate.
- check spark plugs, make sure gap is set correctly and that the tips are in good condition, if very dirty, replace them. Make sure you put in the recommended plug as if they are wrong, the tractor may not start or will run rough.
- check for spark to the plugs, best way to do this is to remove spark plug wire from one spark plug and hold it about 1/4 in away and spin the engine with the ignition switch on. You should see a stromg arc everytime that plug is to fire. Make sure transmission is in nuetral when you do this.
- check compression on the cylinders, do this by removing spark plugs and stick an engine compression gauge in each spark plug hole and spin engine with the starter. You should have at least 110 psi. Anything less would indicate worn piston rings or valves.

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Mark

12-27-2001 08:57:19

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Re: Re: 63 FSM difficulty starting in reply to Craig Wissink, 12-27-2001 07:50:13

Thanks for the input. This is a diesel without glow plugs, what are the procedures for checking compression?? Do I have to remove an injector and use that as the port for the compression guage??

Thanks again,
Mark

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Craig Wissink

12-27-2001 18:31:33

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Re: Re: Re: 63 FSM difficulty starting in reply to Mark, 12-27-2001 08:57:19

Mark, yes, you will need to remove an injector to check compression. Since it is a diesel, compression should be about 180 psi minimum. Since checking compression on a diesel is more involved than a gas, I would fogo it until all else has failed in getting to start normally. I have a '53 FMD and with temps above 60 degrees F, it starts quickly. Below 30 degrees, I have to have the engine turned over by the starter about 30 seconds before it will run on its own.

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Bill S.

12-27-2001 16:12:48

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Re: Re: Re: 63 FSM difficulty starting in reply to Mark, 12-27-2001 08:57:19

Mark, You have the same year and model as I do. Do you know about the cold start enrichment button on the injection pump? You should drain and refill the injection pump with fresh motor oil. My tractor had a kaput injection pump when I got it. I have found that the throttle has to be opened considerably to ret the enrichment button which was rusted stuck when I got the tractor. Where are you located? Maybe someone else in this group if not me is near you. I'm limited for time this moment but will have more later. I'm in southern Delaware, USA. If you wish to talk via phone let me know and I'll provide my #.

Bill S.

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Mark

12-28-2001 14:38:49

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Re: Re: Re: Re: 63 FSM difficulty starting in reply to Bill S., 12-27-2001 16:12:48

Well, I broke down and bought a can of starting fluid. 1/2 second burst into the breather tube which I detached from the filter assembly and it started right up.....did not keep running, but it started right up!! :)

I shut off the fuel at the tank, cleaned the sediment bowl, confirmed I had fuel flow from the tank to the bowl. I then removed the fuel line from the inlet side of the filter, and manipulated the lever on the governor and confirmed good fuel flow there. I disconnected each injector, and cranked the engine, confirming that the injector pump does pump...although I have no way of telling if it is sufficient or not.

Any other ideas??

Mark

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Craig Wissink

01-02-2002 07:01:23

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: 63 FSM difficulty starting in reply to Mark, 12-28-2001 14:38:49

Mark, assuming you disconnected the fuel lines to each ejector at the pump and had fuel discharging from the pump ports in the proper firing order, it could be the the pressure is too low or that the injectors themselves are too weak. This is more complicated to check out. You could remove the pump and injectors and take them to a diesel repair business that has the means of checking the function of the pump and ejectors. The only other simple thing I can think of is, if you have not done this already, is to drain out all the old fuel and replace with fresh. Diesel fuel looses its cetane level with age and replacing with fresh fuel may help.

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