The battery tender mentioned might just be one of those desulphator type of units, at a minimum it is a really good idea for keeping voltages up- the test would be to put it on a 12 volt battery that had little capacity, but still had 12 volts, and see if it comes around, or put it on a oscilliscope to see the wave form output.Considering there are very few battery manufacturers anymore, Depending one where you are in the US or Canada, you may have only 1 or 2 manufacturers branding everything in your area. So what you really are paying for is 1) the CCA ratings, 2) How much lead is actually on the plates/spacing between plates- which is the same for automobiles 3) The name of the company on the label. The first two items determine the majority of price differnces and actual quality of the battery. If you doubt the low number of manufacturers, look for a number code embossed, engraved, stamped, etc in the battery case itself, and compare a few different "brands", and you will encounter the same coding. The real differences relate to the first two items I mentioned above. The third one determines the extent of the warranty and warranty schedule. The most apparent example are the "rolled plate" types- the ones that look like a six pack of beer- All are made by just one company no matter whose name is on it.
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