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John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum
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1951 model B crankshaft end play

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Jim in MI

08-26-2003 20:59:33




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I've looked at most of the posts on the archieves about crankshaft end play and how to move the flywheel to set the proper .005 to .010 clearance.
What I want to know is when you push the crank hard left by pushing on the pulley nut, what does the crank butt up against and how does one know that this is the proper position for the crank to run at?? Can I assume there is some sort of thrust collar on the crank and a bearing for it to ride against?? Also it appears a special wrench is required to loosen and tighten the flywheel bolts. Are these wrenches available from John Deere or aftermarket suppliers and what is a ballpark price??
I've never messed with the crankshafts yet, how about filling me in, I'd sure appreciate it.
I can see the crank move back and forth while it's running so I figure it's way beyond .010
Also there's oil behind the flywheel after a run, will setting the end play eliminate the oil leak or do I have to pull off the flywheel and replace the seal?? Thanks, Jim H.

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Greg Schilling

08-27-2003 07:26:49




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 Re: 1951 model B crankshaft end play in reply to Jim in MI, 08-26-2003 20:59:33  
Jim - Don't know if this applies to a 1951 or not, but on my 1945, the service manual suggests engaging the clutch and then rocking the clutch lever back and forth. This will make the crankshaft move from side to side so that the freeplay can easily be measured with a dial indicator on the flywheel.



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Mike M

08-27-2003 05:41:19




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 Re: 1951 model B crankshaft end play in reply to Jim in MI, 08-26-2003 20:59:33  
On a 1951 B model you do not need a special wrench. A proper size combination wrench or box end will work.Also to draw up flywheel on this model unstake the tin lock nut on end of crank and
tighten it a little to take up the play, and after
you tighten the two bolts that clamp the flywheel
and you have the end play set tighten the lock nut and restake it to lock it.



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John T

08-27-2003 05:19:44




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 Re: 1951 model B crankshaft end play in reply to Jim in MI, 08-26-2003 20:59:33  
Hey there Jim, I cant tell you how the crankshaft knows where to run at, when we set the end play we just loosen the flywheels big nuts, one guy holds a large sledge hammer tight up against the clutches big main center bolt while the other guy uses an oak board and hammer etc to drive the flywhel in pretty much as far as we can get it. The spec you mention is correct.

On the leak behind the flywheel, its often the seal is bad thats located inside that D shaped housing behind the flywheel on the side of the tractor. Be sure and get the flywheel back on the same spline(s) it was on to achieve proper timign and balance.

We made our own flywheel wrench by using a coat hanger to model the needed shape and angles then bendign a wrench to match and it works great. If the old flywheel bolts appear to have the threads stretched or damaged, replace them with new hard bolts and nuts.

Good Luck n God Bless

John T Nordhoff

PS Are you anywhere near Pontiac Michigan?? We will be at Camp Dearborn Labor Day weekend to see my son (singer songwriter) whose performing at the Pontiac Chrysler Arts Beats n Eats Festival.

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Jim in MI

08-27-2003 09:45:42




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 Re: Re: 1951 model B crankshaft end play in reply to John T, 08-27-2003 05:19:44  
Thanks to all you guys for the quick and easy to understand information about the end play on my Deere. I feel more confident now about setting the flywheel clearance.

Clooney thanks for the thrust surface explanation, before, I couldn't understand how it was OK to just jam the crank hard left without causing problems, got it now, thanks for clearing that up for me, much appreciated! I'm a ways north of Dearborn John, We live in a little town, "Harrisville". it's about 30 mi south of "Alpena", I rarely get down that way. If I were closer I'd come on down. Enjoy those eats!!

Thanks again, its great to have a place to get your questions answered and of course its people like yourselves that make the place great! I hope we never loose this tractor comraderie. I'd be lost without it as I'm sure a lot of others would be also. Jim in MI

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Clooney

08-27-2003 03:39:07




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 Re: 1951 model B crankshaft end play in reply to Jim in MI, 08-26-2003 20:59:33  
Jim, you ask..."I want to know when you push the crank hard left by pushing on the pulley nut, what does the crank butt up against and how does one know that this is the proper position for the crank to run at?"-----There is a thrust surface on the L/H main bearing that wraps around the main bearing inner side & that rides on a thrust surface machined into the crankshaft. For thrust in the R/H direction the flywheel spacer rides on the outside of the R/H main bearing cover. There is no way of knowing exactly where the crankshaft is in relation to where it should be & more than likely it has moved to the left some over the years [that's probably that excess lateral play you have now]. One thing to look at is how far the crankshaft sticks out of the flywheel hub [after the end play is set] , if it is out very far that is probably the amount worn from the thrust surface of the L/H bearing thrust surface.
~As for the special wrench, those are floating around at the various tractor shows & are also available on line with a little searching. You can make one by heating & bending a 3/4" drive 2' extension or even by just welding 2 sockets side by side. You might try Ted Klee (517-663-6352), he sometimes has those flywheel wrenches for sale.
~On that oil leak….. That extra crankshaft lateral movement sure isn't helping an oil leak but probably isn't the main reason you have a leak. The most prevalent cause of an oil leak is a failed flywheel spacer inner seal ring [like an "O" ring] that goes between the flywheel spacer & crankshaft. The other dominant factor is too much L/H main bearing to crankshaft clearance causing more oil to be pumped into the L/H bearing cover area so there is more oil than the flywheel spacer can control. The other things that could be wrong are,,,, a plugged oil return hole in the bottom of the L/H spacer housing, or too much crankcase internal pressure due to combustion blow-by [if you have smoke coming from behind the clutch pulley you probably never will completely stop the oil leaking from behind the flywheel.

~To set the crankshaft end play just loosen the 2 flywheel pinch bolts, then block [or have someone hold] the crankshaft over to the Left by pushing on the clutch center nut. [I usually jamb a piece of wood between the R/H tire & clutch center bolt] , then push [or drive with a block of wood] the flywheel on until it’s tight to the main bearing spacer & housing, then remove the R/H blocking, then use a piece of wood or brass drift & give the crankshaft in the center of the flywheel a good swat. That will drive the crankshaft back through the flywheel just a little. You can then use a dial indictor between the flywheel rim & engine block [.005”-.010”], or just grab the flywheel & move it by hand, you need a very light thunk with almost no movement [just a very slight movement] if it clunks you have too much movement. If it doesn’t move you don’t have enough…

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