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Front mount coil

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BJ

09-08-2001 23:46:47




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Help!!!!!
I'm having a bad time of it with my 9N distributor. The points, cap, rotor. condenser,all bushings, cam shaft and weights, have been replaced. I set the points at .015 and that is constant with full rotation. With the dist. in a vice and no plug wires installed and 12V to the coil, there is fire only at #4 nipple. rotational speek is 600 RPM. All parts came from Mike's. The only thing left is the c

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9N Chuck in Mo

09-10-2001 07:15:49




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 Re: front mount coil in reply to BJ, 09-08-2001 23:46:47  
Did you get a new coil yet, and did that fix it?



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Phil (AZ)

09-09-2001 09:21:04




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 Re: front mount coil in reply to BJ, 09-08-2001 23:46:47  
BJ, You Said "With the dist. in a vice and no plug wires installed and 12V to the coil, there is fire only at #4 nipple. rotational speek is 600 RPM. All parts came from Mike's."

No plug wires installed! what are you using to create an arc? or are you just looking on a scope or hi voltage probe? Hmm why not put all wires and plugs on and repeat your bench test.

Phil,



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BJ

09-09-2001 14:13:56




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 Re: Re: front mount coil in reply to Phil (AZ), 09-09-2001 09:21:04  
Phil thanks for the input. I figure if there is no juce at the nipples there's no sense hookin' all those things up. I'm using a spark tester. The little probe you check for spark at the plugs. If it works on #4 it ought to work on the rest. It lights up real pretty.
BJ



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Phil (AZ)

09-10-2001 04:46:38




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 Re: Re: Re: front mount coil in reply to BJ, 09-09-2001 14:13:56  
BG, Potentials are strange!. There is no direct electrical connection between the rotor & cap, its an air Gap. In order to coax the Hi-voltage across the Gap it must see a low impedance path. The total Air Gaps (rotor + Spark plug) determine the Potential at which arcing will occur. I suspect that your Spark Test indicator may be calibrated for Auto's (.060) with a low threshold that is close to the Maximum output of the N’s Coil. (the reason that # 4 arc's is that the rotor gap is smaller).

Try a Spark plug at .030 and then increase the Gap in .005 increments until arcing Stops. This will tell you the Coil Output, but the N's coil cannot output 60,000 Volts regardless of how much current you sink.

JMHO

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BJ

09-08-2001 23:57:46




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 Re: front mount coil in reply to BJ, 09-08-2001 23:46:47  
The last part of my post got cut off soo.... as I was saying. The only thing left is the coil. How do I check this out? It should not operate for only #4 nipple. Right?
thanks for any help.

BJ



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Dell (WA)

09-09-2001 03:28:29




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 Re: Re: front mount coil in reply to BJ, 09-08-2001 23:57:46  
BJ..... .this is a crapp shoot. "replaced bushings" you could still have shaft wobble. Best checked while still in bench vice with a dial micrometer. You might get lucky and its visable when you turn the distributor with the cap off and rotor on or off (try both ways).

Otherwize, you just may have "trashed" your ignition coil with 12 volts and don't have enuff sparkies left to jump the gaps at #1,2,3. You should have the same airgap all around the cap but gaps can vary some and not affect your running except when you have "low sparkies" and they just won't jump the slightly wider gaps. The "cure" is an new ignition coil, sorry..... ....Dell

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BJ

09-09-2001 17:19:02




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 Re: Re: Re: front mount coil in reply to Dell (WA), 09-09-2001 03:28:29  
Del: I know about the 3>5 ohms but figured if I did one real quick check in a very short time I would be OK. It's a 12V system, and I think I trashed the coil anyway. As for runout on the shaft. It was .0015 so that's better than I hoped for, but couldn't find a good way to check with the rotor on. I'm going for the coil and I thank you guys for the input. I'll let you know the outcome. By the way' the things that I saw on the bench is the same as on the tractor. Thats what started all this.
BJ

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Jim(FL)

09-09-2001 06:10:45




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 Re: Re: Re: front mount coil in reply to Dell (WA), 09-09-2001 03:28:29  
Dell and BJ, Dell a quick question? Have you assumed that BJ's coil is a 6 volt unit? He would be OK with appling 12 volts from a battery if the coil is a 12 Volt unit - right?

BJ, you never said what the original problem was you were trying to fix. From your list of replacement parts (no coil listed) it is possible your coil was poor or bad before you started the R & R process on the dist. I agree with Dr. Dell's diagnosis (he has helped all of us on many, many occasions!!!!) - but my un-educated guess is a bad coil.

MHO, Jim

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no . . . Dell(WA)

09-09-2001 10:44:41




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: front mount coil in reply to Jim(FL), 09-09-2001 06:10:45  
Jim..... ...even 12 volt battery is too much for a 12 volt frontmount coil inna a bench test. And obviously too much for a 6 volt coil.

Uncontrolled current will overheat the ignition coil and melt the insulative tar and shortout the primary turns and reduce the secondary sparkie volts to a low 'nuff level it won't jump any gaps anywhere.

Bottom line, on the tractor or on the testbench, 12 volts or 6 volts, you MUST control the coil primary current, usually with the infamous "ballast resistor".

If'n you know how to measure current with an accurate ampmeter (not the dashboard ampmeter) nominal is 3 amps, 5 amps max, anything greater is going to overheat your coil and melt the insulative tar and short out the primary windings and you end up with bad sparkies..... ..... Dell

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