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Manifold stud removal

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Rob 9N

09-29-2001 05:42:36

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Greetings, I've been trying to remove three studs from the block. One came out easily with the nut. I have drained the coolant and saturated the studs with P.B.Blaster. My question is weather to use heat, and weather to use it on the block around the stud or the stud itself. I'm taking my time as not to break the studs off in the block. I have checked the archives and any thing else I could, but figured someone will have delt with this recently and have another idea. I am using Visegrips and a medium ballpeen hammer. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Rob

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Farmer Tim*8N15513*

10-01-2001 18:20:57

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Re: Manifold stud removal in reply to Rob 9N, 09-29-2001 05:42:36

I took my intake/exhaust manifold off the other day and the bolt hole next to number four cylinder had a hex head bolt in it. Obviously the previous owner tried to compensate for a bad gasket at that spot ( this is next to the muffler connection so it gets hot there and usually where the gasket fails first ). It came out relatively easy but then coolant came gushing out. I had a new stud handy and screwed it in temporarily until I can finish the job. I was told by an old friend to put Teflon tape on the new one before putting it back in. The other three had original brass nuts on them and the studs are worn but usable. My question is, how accurate will a torque wrench be on worn threads like that? I wanted to replace all four with new ones, and I have new brass nuts, but was cautioned about breaking them off. I don't know what is different about studs than bolts-they're both cold-rolled threading operations. Let us all know what you come up with for a solution. Be careful if you use a torch, with everything pulled away and an exposed fuel line especially.

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ZANE

09-30-2001 06:04:49

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Re: Manifold stud removal in reply to Rob 9N, 09-29-2001 05:42:36

You would be better off to buy a die and renew the threads of the stud than to try to remove them. If you are not very careful you could end up ruining the block.
Studs are not threaded like a bolt is. The threads of a stud that go into the block are not cut at the same degree as the threads in the block. There is a reason for this. It is so the stud will not come out when it is removed. Studs are installed at the factory with a blind ended nut sort of tool that allows them to be forced into the block threads in tension to keep then put.

If it breaks off you won't be able to remove it with any easy out either. The only way to get it out then is to drill it completley out and hope you don't get into the threads and ruin the block.

Since the threads are in tension the stud will have to be drilled completely out all the way around to ease this tension. This is hard to do because it is almost impossible to get the drill started in the exact center of the broken stud.

If the hole in the block is ruined you may be able to drill and tap to the correct size and install a helicoil insert which is poor excuse for a real fix since they are just sort of lying in the hole and if the bolt or stud is ever removed again the helicoil is likely to come out with the bolt or stud.

The other fix if the hole is ruined is to drill out a bigger hole and tap it so it will receive a bushing that is threaded on the OD and ID and thread it into the block.

If it ain't broke don't fix it!!!!! !!!

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Rob9N

09-30-2001 06:32:00

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Re: Re: Manifold stud removal in reply to ZANE, 09-30-2001 06:04:49

thanx all for the comments.
I was this morning thinking of just retapping the studs and waiting till I do a rebuild so I can get the block in a more favorable position. This backs up my idea in a big way. I did however hear from my neighbor, ( A master welder) about using granulated sugar. Heat the studs till they glow and put some sugar around the stud. As they cool down the sugar will be drawn in the threads. And a quick break and out they will come. Again thanks, Rob

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Bob Weber

10-01-2001 07:47:39

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Re: Re: Re: Manifold stud removal in reply to Rob9N, 09-30-2001 06:32:00

I've heard of heating the stud and then touching a stick of wax to it to be drawn into the threads as a lubricant, and this has worked for me on a couple of occasions. A machinist here in town even has special wax he got somewhere for this purpose. Never heard of the sugar thing, almost seems like that would make things stickier.

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ZANE

10-01-2001 06:16:28

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Re: Re: Re: Manifold stud removal in reply to Rob9N, 09-30-2001 06:32:00

Thank you for the information about heating the studs and using sugar to melt and be drawn into the threads. If in fact this will work it is a much more valuable bit of advice that everything I have told you.

I plan on trying it out in the near future!

It is old tricks of the trade that people on this web site are ready and willing to share that make it so valuable.

Don't forget to help Kim to keep it going!

Somebody should compile a book with tips like this one to make available to all us dummies who try to keep old iron moving.

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Bill

09-29-2001 16:59:51

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Re: Manifold stud removal in reply to Rob 9N, 09-29-2001 05:42:36

Needed to remove exhaust manifold studs and bolts recently on my 79 Dodge Ramcharger. Used a torch to heat the stud or bolt and then clamped on with a pair of vice grips. They all came out with out breaking. Just be careful how you twist and watch to insure that the stud is not twisting on itself. Take your time and you should be okay.

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rob 9N

09-29-2001 17:40:37

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Re: Re: Manifold stud removal in reply to Bill, 09-29-2001 16:59:51

Bill, When you say torch, What do you mean? Do you mean propane or do you mean oxy-accet? Rob

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Chuck (CA)

09-29-2001 06:16:18

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Re: Manifold stud removal in reply to Rob 9N, 09-29-2001 05:42:36

Good mornin' Rob,
The easiest way I've removed stubborn studs requires 2 nuts. Screw 1 nut down on the stud and then screw the 2nd one down against the first. Tighten both nuts together and then turn the lower nut counterclockwise. The top nut will prevent the lower nut from unscrewing itself, so the stud should come out with the turning of the nut.
Don't get carried away with leverage though. You sure don't want that stud to snap off. That would be a whole new kettle of fish.

Good luck,
Chuck

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