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Block cracked from intake valve seat to the cylinder.

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Rob

05-08-2003 15:56:45




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I'm looking at this block and it seems to have been cracked for a long time. The edges of the crack are worn away up near the sleeve where the iron is real thin. The crack is real tight on the seat and the valve hasn't been leaking and isn't burnt. Thing to think about is that the exhaust valve hasn't been seating and if it's rebuilt the intake would have more temp and pressure.
I looked at pinning or stiching but got to thinking that leaves TWO cracks in the seat. They peen all around the edges of the pin. I think I'll do the same thing here, I'll peen the crack to make it as tight as possible and reface the seat.
What is your experience?

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Scott-NC

05-09-2003 03:53:07




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 Re: block cracked from intake valve seat to the cylinder. in reply to Rob, 05-08-2003 15:56:45  
I'd cut the repaired area for a press-in seat. If you are using Oaktite products for the "pin" repair (actually tapered, threaded plugs) get their liquid sealer and use it on both the plugs and the seat.



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Rob

05-09-2003 07:05:21




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 Re: Re: block cracked from intake valve seat to the cylinder. in reply to Scott-NC, 05-09-2003 03:53:07  
Yeah that's a good way to go. Not an option right now though. This is a repair to get it running again. Bottom line it was seating with this crack and that's good enough for now.
You mention a liquid sealer but I haven't seen that. This crack is very tight across the seat. It looks like it's gonna get peened a bit and refaced. You think putting on a bit of a liquid sealer would do any good? I don't know that it can penetrate the crack there across the seat.
The engine can be reworked later if needed. Need to run it maybe 20 hours before sending it to the machine shop.

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