Light fuse (again)

Soundguy

Don't run the headlights through the ignition switch. The ignition switch is only rated at 5 amps total. Not to mention that the ignition switch is pretty flaky as it is, even with only the 3 amp coil load.

18 guage wire is fine for one lamp. It is a little skinny for two lamps, though it would probably work. You might consider whether you or anyone else would ever replace the lights with brighter bulbs down the road, and overdesign this part of the wiring somewhat. I'd use the 18 guage to get through the doglegs, and something heavier after two hot leads tee together. The ground leads should be handled the same way.

Watts=Volts x Amps ???

30+30=60 watts total, so

60watts=6Volts x 10Amps

Minimum fuse you can use for JUST the headlights is 10 AMP if you are still 6-Volt...If you plan on adding tail and work lights you will need even bigger fuses or seperate fused lines...

And as for (18AWG so it would fit into the headlight shell), Huh?...The hole in the tube that connects the headlight to the dogleg is hollow (at least on my lights) and will easily take 10 guage wire, though that is a tad overkill and a bugger to thread sometimes...

Fuses shouldn't be matched precisely to the load: the idea behind a fuse is to protect the wire from exceeding its maximum capacity. Best bet would be a fourteen gauge wire to feed both headlights, with a 15 amp AGC fuse protecting the circuit. If you have a choice, make sure to locate the fuse as close to the power source as possible--you don't protect anything upstream of the fuse.

If you use a circuit breaker, pay close attention to the metal can. Do NOT mount it so that it forms a "cup" in which water can collect. If it fills with water, you've got no protection since the breaker won't blow.

I believe that I would pick-up the lead for your lights at the amp meter, thru the switch (fused) and on to the lights. Thus, when the lights are on, you should see the amperage draw.

Hope this helps. :})