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Bushhog digging ruts in field

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Rob N VA

06-24-2003 01:58:49




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My bush hog is digging ruts when I use it. Has anyone had this problem? Should I set the back wheel down a notch? I have even considered rigging up some kind of wheels for the front, kinda like is used on a finish mower, but I don't think that is the solution to the problem. Anyone got any ideas? Thank in advance for the help-Rob




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Dave OH

06-24-2003 20:03:12




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 Re: Bushhog digging ruts in field in reply to Rob N VA, 06-24-2003 01:58:49  
"souNdguy" and "Rob" gave you the answer. Limiter Chains are cheap and should be available at any place that sells Brush Hogs. I cut enough ruts until I found out about them.
Dave OH



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souNdguy

06-24-2003 11:30:45




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 Re: Bushhog digging ruts in field in reply to Rob N VA, 06-24-2003 01:58:49  
You might try limiter chains on the front.. that way you can raise it if you need to.. but when you set it down.. it only goes as low as the chains allow. Adjust it on level ground, get the rear wheel so it is being used.. not suspended.. set it with the front slightly angled down. As others mentioned, some hogs have a U bracket to give some play int he toplink... if you's has one.. use it.. if not just adjust yourtoplink a bit loose.. but still use it. If this is a clevis drawn tow mower hooked to your drawbar, you can still use limiter chains to hold it up.

Keep in mind that subtle and uneven changes in terain may get bites taken out of them.. the mower will / can only react to the changes in terain that the tractor tires 'experience' by going over... humps and turns while on a grade will leave scalped areas.

Soundguy

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Matt from MN

06-24-2003 10:54:04




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 Re: Bushhog digging ruts in field in reply to Rob N VA, 06-24-2003 01:58:49  
Rob, On my 8N I simply have the rear wheel set at the desired cutting height, hog connected to the 2 lift arms and no top link. This allows the mower to "float" over hills. Be sure to use position control to position your mower so that the front is slightly lower than the rear. Have used it in this manner for 10+ years with no problems, it alos keeps alot of the weight off the tractor.



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LarryNAA

06-24-2003 08:40:47




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 Re: Bushhog digging ruts in field in reply to Rob N VA, 06-24-2003 01:58:49  
sometimes it helps to keep a little slack in the top link. newer bush hogs usually have some kind of flexible connection to the top link. (sometimes just a "U" shaped bracket, as on my Servis-Rhino mower). This allows the deck to flex with respect to the tractor when you go over small hills and bumps, and allow the deck to follow terrain better. Some folks use a chain as top link, but that can be dangerous. (mower deck can flip up on top of operator, giving operator a very rough haircut).

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ZANE

06-24-2003 07:01:07




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 Re: Bushhog digging ruts in field in reply to Rob N VA, 06-24-2003 01:58:49  
If you have a 9N/2N tractor you need one of my position control devices "ZANE THANG"

It will hold the lift at the position or height you desire.

See the link below.



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Bruce (VA)

06-24-2003 05:34:42




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 Re: Bushhog digging ruts in field in reply to Rob N VA, 06-24-2003 01:58:49  
Rob, I had the same problem when I first got my 8N & bush hog. I'd set the front of it 6-8 inches off the ground, and in 3 or 4 passes across the pasture, I was digging ruts, because the hydraulics (I thought) were leaking down. That's when I discovered the position control lever under the seat. As I was told....if the implement is used above ground, the lever goes up (position control); if the implement is used below ground (a plow) it goes down for draft control. So, I set the lever up & my bush hog now remains at the exact height I set it.

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Rob

06-24-2003 02:27:22




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 Re: Bushhog digging ruts in field in reply to Rob N VA, 06-24-2003 01:58:49  
I'll leave a scar if I have the front set too low. Typically if I'm on a narrow side-to-side slope like the ditch next to my lane.
I don't see where it can be corrected by lowering the rear wheel. I just raise the front with the limiter chains. Fact is that at most any height if you hit a side-to-side slope just right where it changes you can dig with one side or the other or both. Like mowing the bottom of a narrow, under 5' wide, ditch. The rising sides of the ditch hit the edges of the mower and you leave a rut. It might be that the approach to the land is the most important consideration. Like scalping, most of that can be eliminated if you mow the sides of humps and ridges instead of charging right over the top.

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