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Valve adjustment??

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Rob N Va

07-10-2003 19:25:10




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Do you have to adjust the valves pierodically on a 1950 8n? If so is it kinda like adjusting the valves on an aircooled Bug motor? Looks like you would have to pull the manifold to do it. Anyone got a link to a string in the archives that would help me with the procedure? I can't find it. Maybe I'm just not looking in the right place, Thanks for the help. You guys are awesome!!---Rob




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Lou VA

07-11-2003 09:20:14




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 Re: Valve adjustment?? in reply to Rob N Va, 07-10-2003 19:25:10  
I have a '52 8N which has adjustable valve tappets. I am still researching this site until I feel comfortable taking off the manifold and valve covers to see what I am doing. I have the two tools to hold things while turning the nut. The one question still remaining is which valve is the inlet and which is the exhaust. Is the inlet on the left of the pair for each cylinder? The FO-4, para. 22 and 22A state that "correct valve tappet clearance is .010-.012 cold for inlet and .014-.016 cold for exhaust valves."
Sorry if this is a dumb question but I am attempting this adjustment by myself and have never been INSIDE an engine before. I understand about TDC.
Thanks for any advice.
Lou in Western VA

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ZANE

07-11-2003 06:22:36




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 Re: Valve adjustment?? in reply to Rob N Va, 07-10-2003 19:25:10  

VALVE ADJUSTING ON THE 4 CYLINDER ENGINE
It is possible to hold the tappets so that they can be adjusted by drilling a 1/8” hole in each tappet through the block after they are lined up on top dead center of the compression stroke for each cylinder. Drill the hole as close to the center of the tappet as possible. A smaller drill bit than 1/8” inch can be inserted into the hole to hold the tappet so the adjusters can be turned. Recheck the clearance after the drill bit has been removed. The piston should be on TDC of the cylinder you are adjusting. If you will start with the #1 cylinder and make a mark on the front pulley with a whiteout pen etc and then a reference point to it on the block somewhere then make another mark on the pulley 180 degrees across. After you have adjusted the first #1 cylinder to get the next cylinder in the firing order to TDC turn the engine untill the next mark on the pulley is at the reference point mark and adjust the second cylinder in the firing order. Do this turning the engine 180 degrees each time till the next pulley mark is at the reference mark until all four cylinders have been adjusted or checked. This procedure keeps you from having to find the compression stroke on all the rest of the cylinders.

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Rob

07-10-2003 21:06:57




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 Re: Valve adjustment?? in reply to Rob N Va, 07-10-2003 19:25:10  
The are adjustable solid push rods. They are not the self-adjusting hydraulic lifters. None of the N's have self-adjusting valves. Book says tractors prior to 1951 do not have adjustable tappets. That means you have to remove mat'l from the end of the valve stem to get the lash.
If you've adjusted valves you should be fine checking these. There is some discussion in the archives about being able to adjust em with the manifold in place. Dunno. I never checked, I just jerked the manifold off so I could see what I was doing. Maybe I wouldn't do that just to check em. Just pull the carb and the valve chamber plates. I don't know, you don't need to do this very often.
There's not much in the archives. I'm thinking a guy that's adjusted valves in another engine can adjust these. Not sure. It isn't rocket science but it is 'intermediate-to-advanced shade tree mechanics.' You need to know how to adjust valves and, I think, Zane's hint to drill the push rods thus negating the need for the special wrenches the FO-4 and Ford Manual call for ($6.50 from internet parts houses). You need to shorten the jaws of a 7/16" tappet wrench to fit this engine or make a tappet wrench by grinding an open end real thin and jaws real short. So says the book. This 2N doesn't have adjustable tappets and you just grind the end of the valve stem.
Myself? I wanted the FO-4 or Ford Manual there to refer too. In a pinch, I would have figured a way if I had just the clearances.

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bg

07-10-2003 20:40:07




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 Re: Valve adjustment?? in reply to Rob N Va, 07-10-2003 19:25:10  
Get a copy of the FO-4. You'll find it invaluable. Valves should be adjusted periodically...the interval based on how hard the tractor is used and what the symptoms are. This is not something you need to do unless you sense a problem. You need to remove the manifold. I'd rather have the valves a little loose rather than too tight. Here's the rub: on pre-1951 tractors the valve tappets were non-adjustable. The valve stem ends had to be ground off to adjust. The later-style adjustable tappet kit can be retro-fitted.

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Rob

07-10-2003 21:22:44




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 Re: Re: Valve adjustment?? in reply to bg, 07-10-2003 20:40:07  
You say don't adjust until you sense trouble. I say do it just a bit more often then that so you don't EVER need to lap the valves because of some trouble. Lapping is a time-consuming chore.
I'm thinking a noticable drop in compression is cause for checking the valves. I don't mind going in to look around anyway but I might just start checking compression every couple-three years and check the valves when I see it drop to 100psi, maybe 105. What you think?

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bg

07-11-2003 21:04:24




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 Re: Re: Re: Valve adjustment?? in reply to Rob, 07-10-2003 21:22:44  
Sensing trouble may be nothing more than hearing a change in sound. If you have time to adjust the valves, do it. But, you're less likely to burn valves that are a little loose than ones that are right on spec. I'd probably adjust them once a year if I was using the tractor a lot.



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