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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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O.T. Wood Heat

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Rob N VA

01-15-2004 11:01:42




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Once again I seek the wisdom of the individuals on this board. I am currently heating my 3800 square foot house with electric baseboard heat....not fun! I am considering switching to wood. Since I have no heat ducting in my house I was wondering what you all thought about a stand alone wood furnace. Let me back up for a second and fill in some details. This is a 3 story house, that is to say two levels and a basement. Bedrooms are upstairs, with a spare bedroom downstairs, and laundry room off the kitchen, laundry room opens out into the garage, so the laundry room stays cold and so does the kitchen, mainly because last month the heater in the kitchen went kaput, and there is no heater in the laundry room. This, of course, makes all the other heaters work overtime to compensate, and consequently my electric bill last month was 400 bucks. Also, just for fun and excitement the supply pipe to the clothes washer froze and broke this past Monday night. What a mess! So now that you all have a pretty good picture of my situation, back to my original question. I am thinking about a stand alone wood furnace that I could place in the basement (chimney is already in place) and duct to the entire first floor with little or no difficulty. The stairway going to the 3rd floor is open and I was thinking that this would keep the upstairs pretty warm, with the electric in bedrooms as supplemental. I have seen a stand alone wood furnace at Tractor Supply, and I was wondering what you all thought of that particular brand/make, as I have not been able to find anything like it on the net. Perhaps, one of you knows of a better brand.I have found outside wood furnaces online that appear to run hot water into the house and into a boiler, but I don't think I want to have to run outside to stoke the fire every few hours. If anyone has any ideas, or input for my dilema, I will glady entertain any and all suggestions. Thank you in advance for your feedback!!---Rob N VA (where it is cold right now!)

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Rob in VA

01-16-2004 13:59:20




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 Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Rob N VA, 01-15-2004 11:01:42  
Rob,

I guess it boils down to if you like to handle wood or not and if you are prepared for the work ahead. A lot of responses stated that it was unsafe and a lot of work, but personally I like to cut, load, haul, and burn wood. What a great workout... Also, you might want to look into a wood burning furnace instead of a stove that has the capability of burning gas and oil too. That way can save some money and burn some wood, but are not tied down to it as the only source of heat. I am about to order one for my log home. They are a little pricy, but over time, I think they will pay for themselves. And for those of you that say your time is more valuable, I say what is more valuable than doing something you like, just like watching TV, golfing, working on your N, or typing away on your computer, some of us like to work with wood. To each his own....

my 2 cents worth,
rob

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Barry

01-16-2004 11:45:55




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 Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Rob N VA, 01-15-2004 11:01:42  
My 2 cents. I live about 20 miles from Tazewell Va., your parents home?, and heating here is about like where you live. Have been around wood and coal burning stoves all my life and placed in the house leave much to be desired as all said about the smell and air quality. The newest fad in this area are the wood burning units installed in separate building with the heat piped through heated fluids to a heat exchanger in the house and some people are building their own designs that use the firebox and exhaust gas for heating. I may able to get some blueprints or diagrams if you would like. Ducting is not needed if exchangers and fans are adequate, but expensive. You still have the problem of time and wood source.You can't beat coal or wood for heat but they are dirty, work intensive, and have damaging effects to environment. In Northern Va, I'm not sure the government may not have codes on air quality and safety, since your tail pipe laws are stricter than this part of state. So be sure and check. In this area coal is king, so a stoker makes sure you have adequate fuel at all times.
Any way you look at it efficient is best and any good airtight system will be expensive. The Vermont stoves and other air tight stoves are good but can be expensive and are only as good as the installation.
My brother also uses a pellet stove in Northern WV and he and wife are both blind. He buys the pellets in bulk and just fills the hopper. He swears by it and you can see that upkeep and safety are good with his disability. My suggestion, check on natural gas or propane and get the most efficient unit available. In conjunction with a heat pump could be good. Course ducting and things can be expensive but with new high velocity ducting, you don't need the huge ducts or space of previous systems.
You also pick up air conditioning for added benefit. Think of your older age or a major accident and think if you really want or will be able to cut wood or if better to just hit a thermostat.
You ever think of using geothermal heat? Expensive up front but payback is great and enviromental impact is minimal! May even get right-offs from federal and state taxes .

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Rob N VA

01-16-2004 13:40:37




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 Re: Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Barry, 01-16-2004 11:45:55  
My parents moved away from Tazwell 15 years before I was born ( I was born in 75). They passed away 2 years ago from heart disease (dad) and a massive stroke (mom). They are buried in Woodlawn in Bluewell, which I am sure you know is right outside of Bluefield. If you are familliar with Tazewell, and old enough to remember, my Grandfather was the principal of the middle school down there in tazewell for many years, and retired in the early 80s. I believe I was 12 or 13 when he died, but apparently he was a well respected man in Tazwell, perhaps you knew of him. My sister still lives in Tazewell; over in Drytown, near Whitley branch. Small world huh?
Thank you for your feedback on heating soultions. I a gonna look into the geothermal soultion more closely before I think about wood any more. Thanks again, and enjoy those beautiful mountains down there!

---Rob

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CJ in Michigan

01-16-2004 08:13:39




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 Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Rob N VA, 01-15-2004 11:01:42  
We heat the newer half of our house with a small airtight stove. It uses maybe 1 1/2- 2 cords a winter-lots of dead wood free on our property for the taking.I have yet to down a live tree for heat- or pay for any.

Find out what the building codes are in your area and follow them.

tell your insurance company as well- they will probably have usable info too.

Our stove is 36" away from the wall which is covered by fire proof material and tile.
We insulated under the slab when building the addition-heat retention is good.

Also it's fun hauling logs with the 8N-

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woodmaster

01-16-2004 07:53:21




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 Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Rob N VA, 01-15-2004 11:01:42  
I have been using a woodmaster outdoor boiler for 3 yrs and would NEVER GO BACK TO A WOOD STOVE. Pros' located 100 ft from the house so no soot staining the house problems Pumps hot water into the oil furnace via heat exchanger so I can switch over at anytime. System requires a existing system to connect to either baseboard or hot air. I cut 3.5 ft lengths,and although I use 8-10 cords per year I spend the same time in the woods as when I burned 3 with a woodstove due to the fact I rarely split and less cutting. Anything that needs to be split I give to freinds or use as logs for the mill. My total hot water and heating bill(elect to run the boiler) is $35 a month.Not bad when its 5 degreees outside like now. No CO in the house unless we light a candle. No chance of any kind of chimney fire ,no combustion in the house Even temp of 73 in the house(or whatever I set the thermostat to) I put wood in the stove twice a day on the way to feed the horses. After this season it will have paid for itself($6200) Ease of use, open flu,open door , fill with wood,close door,close flue...done No smell, no mess, lot less handling of the wood ,my pile is 10 feet away from the stove

Cons expensive initial startup cost Must be attended to when away from home unless I shut it down and fire up the oil The $35 includes the increase you will see because you no longer dry clothes by the stove and must use the dryer. Ash removel about once a week, a small garbage can worth. Some stoves I have seen produce much less ash I must admit I do love the whole wood thing and if you don't it will be more of a chore than savings. I also like the fact I am not buying oil. After three years I still think it was the best way to go and I hope to keep feeding the boiler as long as I am able to. Hope it helps Peter
ButtonRock Farm

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E. Ray

01-16-2004 05:44:25




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 Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Rob N VA, 01-15-2004 11:01:42  
Rob..... ..Something you might not have thought about. If you install a fuel burning heating unit inside your house and it does not have an enclosed combustion chamber, it will have to draw combustion air from outside through every crack and pin hole in you inside walls. You can look at the thermometer tacked to the tree in your front yard to see what the temp. of that replacement air is. If you close all those crack and pin holes the unit won’t draw and your house will be full of smoke, smell and ash..... ...just a thought..... ..E. Ray

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Willy-N

01-16-2004 07:03:50




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 Re: Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to E. Ray, 01-16-2004 05:44:25  
My wood stove draws air from outside to burn right thru a vent that is piped to the outside from under the stove. Saves on sucking the air in from under the door gaps and it burns clean. Mark H.



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E. Ray

01-16-2004 08:11:15




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 Re: Re: Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Willy-N, 01-16-2004 07:03:50  
Willy..... ...My Dad was a tobacco farmer and as I remember it, the only colder place in the world than a tob. warehouse was the stripping room. I trying to get my dad to cut a hole in the wall behind the coal stove we heated the stripping room with, turn the stove around and run a stove pipe with a damper in it, to control the burn, from the hole to the stove under the grate for combustion air. At this time I was probably 12-13 years old and had never heard of combustion air but, as the people that have spent a lot of time in a stripping-room know, you have a lot of time to think. You can probably imagine what my Dad (and old time farmer) thought about cutting a hole in an outside wall to make the room warmer. The conversation we had about that hole (that never got cut) is still one of many fond memories I have of my Dad

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Willy-N

01-16-2004 08:44:27




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to E. Ray, 01-16-2004 08:11:15  
Better to pull the air in right next to the stove than all the way across the room. With mine the pipe goes right into the stove so there is no loss of warm air in the room. Works good and I have a damper to control the burn. Mark H.



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Colin in WI

01-16-2004 07:02:49




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 Re: Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to E. Ray, 01-16-2004 05:44:25  
Where does the combustion air come from for gas or oil furnaces or boilers?



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Upper Peninsula,Mich

01-16-2004 19:33:04




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 Re: Re: Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Colin in WI, 01-16-2004 07:02:49  
Colin, with todays air tight homes,make up air is a problem. After installing my gas forced air furnace,I had to install a make up air 8" pipe into the furnace room. Put a damper on the end of it so it shuts off when the furnace is not calling for air. With no damper the cold air would continously spill into the house. How to check if you need supplementle make up air. Here's what I did. Turned the furnace on and a few of the more used exhaust fans then drew hot water from the gas hot water heater then put a lighted candle near the hot water heater exhaust pipe. Guess what, the furnace and exhaust fans had created such a vaccume in the house the hot water heater exhaust gases were being sucked back into the house. Very dangerous indeed. Check yours. Good luck.Ron

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E. Ray

01-16-2004 07:38:41




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 Re: Re: Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Colin in WI, 01-16-2004 07:02:49  
Unless they have enclosed combustion chambers that draws combustion air throught some type of piping arrangement or an arrangement such as Willy-N has, it comes in every crack and pin hole in your inside walls.



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buck

01-15-2004 20:41:21




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 Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Rob N VA, 01-15-2004 11:01:42  

I'm going to second the suggestion to look into the Monitor heater. I have a old (1861) 2 story house with a modern 1 story addition on the back. The addition is 1200 sq.ft. that I heat with a Monitor heater. Average fuel consumption over the last 8 years is 200 gal.yr. Addition is r30 above r17 walls and r19 floor with crawl space.All plumbing in addition so no freeze problems. Located in SW VA.(Wythe Co.) so weather is similar to yours. Plenty of info.on web about Monitor heaters but basically need outside wall for burner air and exhaust,110 outlet and either gravity feed or seperate pump for fuel. Keep warm now.

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Rob N VA

01-16-2004 03:53:47




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 Re: Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to buck, 01-15-2004 20:41:21  
Thanks for the feedback, I am learning a lot about heating my house. It's a small world, my parents were from Tazewell. I think that area of Virginia is really beautiful, much more so than Charlottesville! Take care, Rob



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Tom of MN

01-15-2004 20:10:32




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 Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Rob N VA, 01-15-2004 11:01:42  
Rob,
I have heated our 1,530-square-foot rambler exclusively with wood since about 1978. I have a Fisher stove on the main floor and a Vermont Castings stove in our walkout basement. Heating with wood is not dirty, nor do we smell -- or smell of -- smoke. Both stoves are hooked to a 8" X 12" concrete block chimney with clay flu liner. We have a second flu of the same size for our oil-fired furnace, which now serves only as a part of our centeral air conditioner system. My wife and I love wood heat. The Fisher runs steady virtually all winter and we fire up the Vermon Castings for holiday gatherings in the basement rec room or when the temps drop to below zero and we want to take the chill out of the basement. When we built the house, we installed the chimney near the center of the house so heat from a wood stove would be distributed more efficiently. We have since installed a large ceiling fan in the dining room to help keep the heat closer to the floor. It works beautifully. We live in the country and have access to all the free wood we need. I have a '53 Jubilee and a '47 Farmall B, a two-wheel trailer, a Stihl chain saw, a homemade hydraulic wood splitter and a woodshed that holds about 12 cords of wood. The woodshed has a roof and three open sides, so the wood stays dry.

Based on my years of experience, here's my thoughts. Don't start burning wood just to save money. It requires an amazing amount of work and unless you enjoy cutting, splitting, stacking, hauling and re-hauling and re-stacking, you'll take out the wood-burning device in a year or two. And while we don't have any smoke problems, you do have to vacuum around the woodbox after you fill it. You also have to be careful when you clean out the stove because the ash tends to drift off in air currents. Furthermore, if you have to buy the wood, you won't save much, if any, money. Also, if you don't have a good chimney, don't hook a wood stove to it or you'll eventually burn down the house. Speaking of chimneys, put a special thermometer on your smokestack so you know how hot it is. This is very important because keeping the needle in the yellow reduces the risk of developing creosote in the smokestack and chimney.

As for heating devices, I prefer brand-name air-tight stoves. They can be spendy, but they produce the most heat from a given amount of wood. It's also nice to be able to move closer to the stove on cold, windy nights.

Hope this helps. And good luck.

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Lone Wolf

01-15-2004 18:02:08




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 Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Rob N VA, 01-15-2004 11:01:42  
Wood heat is good and if you have a endless supply
of wood and don't mind smelling like a characol briquet you might be happy. Wood heat is like a gun, not dangerous as long as you understand it.
I have a huge creek stone fireplace which I converted with an insert and a stainless steel dual wall flue 3 years ago. Works fine and will easily heat the 3500 sf house. I also have electric base board heat and natural gas. I don't use the baseboard heat and generally use the nat. gas. If you put the stove in the basement check with your local building inspector or fire marshal.
Better to know what they will allow than to have your house burn down and then find out your insurance won't pay off.
Lastly wood heat will work and you will have no problem if you are careful, But I'd go natural gas if possible.
Hint-code folks go nuts but if you wire your furnace with a regular plug you can always unplug it and plug directly into a generator via extension cord-if electric power goes out.
LW

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Fessman

01-15-2004 14:00:35




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 Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Rob N VA, 01-15-2004 11:01:42  
Rob,

I work with and know a few guys that use monitor heaters. They all have small homes...approx 1500sq ft single story houses approx 30 years old. They all claim to use just over 1 tank of oil per year. Probably 300 gals per year. Some of the guys have heated with wood in the past and will never go back. They are very easy to put in, and you can start saving immediately.

Fessman

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Gaspump

01-15-2004 13:55:45




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 Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Rob N VA, 01-15-2004 11:01:42  
I have a friend in MI that installed one of those remote wood heaters that sits in an outbuilding that looks like an outhouse. Is very impressed with the results and operating cost, next to chain saw gas only. It heats the house and the water. Says it is supposed to burn 72 hrs without filling with wood but he says stokes it not less than every other day. Things are costly for a large house like $6300 installed but then again if you have wood to burn. In that area of MI it is apparently against building codes to have indoor wood burners and even these outhouse burners are to be located a minimum of 60' from any building. in that area they are popping up like mushrooms.

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Bill in WI

01-15-2004 13:52:18




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 Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Rob N VA, 01-15-2004 11:01:42  
It has been said that wood will heat you 7 times:
1. Cut it.
2. Split it.
3. Load it.
4. Unload it. 5. Stack it.
6. Burn it.
7. Clean up after it.

No other fuel will give you so much heat! Seriously though, there are pros and cons to each way. I know folks who have modern outdoors wood burners, and they are capable of holding a days supply of fuel. I use propane; live in Wisconsin. I have to laugh and shake my head at the wood burning types who proudly spout off about “ I heated my house all winter for $4.17. How much are you paying?” Try to get one of them to do anything else besides cut / split / haul wood for 8 months out of the year, and you’ll find yourself on your own. Burning wood for primary heat, in my opinion, is just fine if you place very little value on your time.

If you do decide to go the wood burning route, please heed the other advice here on doing it safely and correctly, and also be sure your insurance carrier is aware of it. It would be bad enough to lose it all, but even worse to find out the coverage you thought you were paying for is voided because of a change of heating systems.

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Ken/wa

01-15-2004 13:48:01




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 Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Rob N VA, 01-15-2004 11:01:42  
If you want wood, the pellet stove is the way to go. My brother has one. After years of cutting wood, he gave up. He has elec with the pellet.



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Cargocult (winter)

01-15-2004 13:15:04




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 Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Rob N VA, 01-15-2004 11:01:42  
third party image

The concept of wood-burning is a good thing to do! Not for main heat, but good for emergency heat! I used to be a Mother Earth News dropout, and heated many houses with wood, but not these days. Still have many firewoods, but main heat is a MONITOR heater, sips kerosene. However, they are USELESS if the power goes out. Might make a good Boat Anchor for a small boat, but as far as generating significant amounts of heat, forget it, because fans, burners, etc are 110v. However, burning wood is a very ecological thing to do, especially out in the country. And, it's a good way to dispose of excess wood, like trees that get blown down in Hurricanes. (Like the one we had last year) It gives me a chance to use my Ferguson cut-off saw with the N;-) And the *&#$@ Government can't tax it, (YET). Plus, there is no feeling better than standing there looking at the huge pile of firewood that represents the winter's heat...nobody can take it away, one can laugh at fuel shortages, etc. Never be without a stove, one that can be used to cook with is great. Plus, wood heat is great for drying stuff out! My stove was in the basement, and I cut a hole in the floor that was over the stove which was under my bedroom. Would drive you outta there. Just do it!!

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Bernie in MA

01-15-2004 12:53:26




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 Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Rob N VA, 01-15-2004 11:01:42  
We heated with wood for years. It's a lot of work, both feeding the stove and cutting the wood. We bought a new oil furnace 4 years ago. I retired then and had the time to cut wood but the ability was mostly gone. My wife had gotten into a good job and didn't want to deal with the mess and having to repaint ceilings every few years, besides the constant smell of woodsmoke in our clothes that went everywhere we did. We prepay for 1000 gallons of oil in the fall and forget about it.

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Troy

01-15-2004 12:51:08




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 Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Rob N VA, 01-15-2004 11:01:42  
I don't know the average price, or availability, of natural gas, in your area, but i had a 94 % efficiency forced air furnace (100,000 BTU) and 2&1/2 ton central air unit, installed 2 years ago, and my bill has never been over $165. This is in a 150 + year old 2 story wood frame home that is in bad need of more insulation, and mot to mention new windows and doors.
I was considering a corn burning unit, but i am glad i went with the new gas unit instead, it is a lot less headach.

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Steve W (NY)

01-15-2004 12:41:01




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 Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Rob N VA, 01-15-2004 11:01:42  
I have a neighbor who heats wih wood to reduce his propane bill. He cuts wood all summer, and fills up his metal barn, and then spends all winter hauling in wood to save a 1000 dollars at the most. I'd put his labor at 1 dollar an hour. I laugh every time I see him humping wood around.

If I was you, I'd see if natural gas or oil is available, and go with a radiator setup. Much better than forced air, and easier to retrofit to an older house. Ducting is difficult, plus it transfers noise from one room into the next, and the heat is very dry. Of course if you want AC , forced air is cheaper. But wood is the worst way to heat in my opinion. I would only do it if somebody gave me the wood already cut for free. Save your back, your lungs, and your marriage.

Take Care
Steve

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Dave(WI)

01-15-2004 15:33:06




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 Re: Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Steve W (NY), 01-15-2004 12:41:01  
Steve you forgot about painted the internal walls and ceilings once every 4 years. Opening that front furnace door, even if in the basement, allows smoke to get upstairs. If you can smell it, the particles are there.



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souNdguy

01-15-2004 12:37:33




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 Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Rob N VA, 01-15-2004 11:01:42  
Have you thought about a corn burning heater?.. that is unless you have wood for free.

Be safe.. heed the other warnings and good advice found here.. etc.

Soundguy



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Dave(WI)

01-15-2004 12:10:20




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 Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Rob N VA, 01-15-2004 11:01:42  
If you do go to wood, DO NOT tell your insurance CO.



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dhermesc

01-15-2004 13:48:32




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 Re: Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Dave(WI), 01-15-2004 12:10:20  
"If you do go to wood, DO NOT tell your insurance CO"

That way if your house burns down they can deny your loss entirely. Trust me, saving a few dollars now could easily cost you thousands later.



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Dave(WI)

01-15-2004 14:39:20




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 Re: Re: Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to dhermesc, 01-15-2004 13:48:32  
Your right. Good idea to let them know. Same with a large trampouline for yours and the neighborhood kids. Insurance may go up a few bucks, but then there is the lawsuits.



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RB(VA)

01-15-2004 12:22:31




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 Re: Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Dave(WI), 01-15-2004 12:10:20  
State Farm Homeowners has a $45.00 additional annual premium for wood stoves.
Roy



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dave 50 8n

01-15-2004 12:10:01




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 Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Rob N VA, 01-15-2004 11:01:42  
What about "regional" pellet stove installations? They say they can heat up to some 2500 sq. ft...probably less in colder weather. Around $2,000 a pop, + installation, vent, etc.

does require electricity, but if you have a good generator, you can keep a few running during outages.

40 lb bags. Here is $4/bag.

good luck!



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RB(VA)

01-15-2004 12:07:06




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 Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Rob N VA, 01-15-2004 11:01:42  
Rob, this is my fourth winter using the Ashley Wonderwood heater from TSC that has a duct from the blower opening in the back of the stove into the heatpump duct to all the rooms. Running the heatpump blower on "manual" is neccessary on cold (below 20 degree) days and nights.
I live just south of Lynchburg so weather may be slightly more moderate than you.
The heater can heat a 2700 sq. ft home handily using dry oak firewood.
It usually has to be fed about every three hours though.
Be absolutely sure your chimney is adequate.
Hope this is of some help.
Roy

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Bruce (VA)

01-15-2004 11:57:08




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 Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Rob N VA, 01-15-2004 11:01:42  
Rob, have you ever lived in a house only/primarily heated by wood? I have, and as you can see, so do a lot of other folks on this board, and I will be the first to tell you that it is dangerous, dirty & hard work. As an example, I love my N's, but if I was a real farmer, I would have a much bigger tractor, I sure would not be going back to mules! Twenty years ago, I moved into an circa 1860 house and over a period of almost 10 years, totally renovated it; for that 10 year period, I heated most of it with wood. Let me get to the point.....put pencil to paper & figure out the 10 year cost of that wood stove, compared to the 10 year cost of a gas heater, then add in the labor it will take compared to the minimal work associated w/ gas, and I think you will find a gas heater is the way to go. If I had to do it over, central air/heat would have been my first renovation project, not my last! After I got gas heat in that house, I probably average building a fire in the stove about 3 times a winter. I do not miss it a bit!

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Colin in WI

01-15-2004 11:40:47




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 Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Rob N VA, 01-15-2004 11:01:42  
Before I went to any major expense putting in an outside boiler I'd try simply putting a big woodstove in the basement and cut a couple of register openings into the main floor to allow heat to rise. Use your electric baseboard sparingly only where freezing pipes would be an issue. That way you would get pretty good heat distribution at minimal cost. From there you could decide to put in a woodburning furnace if you wanted more even heat distribution and longer times between loading.

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Tom 8N396936

01-15-2004 11:37:51




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 Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Rob N VA, 01-15-2004 11:01:42  
I seem to remember seeing something about flexible ducting somehwere. My brother uses a wood furnace in thw basement and it works great although it runs through ducts. If you go with a boiler you would still bave to run radiators (plumbing) of some type right? I have seen duct run in some pretty unusual places. Do you have a center wall that runs from the basement up to the second floor?? You may be able ot get atleat some circulation with it if you can run a duct. my 2 cents
tom

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rbell

01-15-2004 11:36:50




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 Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Rob N VA, 01-15-2004 11:01:42  
If you are new to wood heat, you have a lot to learn if you want to be safe.
I have 1800 sqft but with ceiling tape heat (elect) wood as my primary (converted after 25 years with my Ashley to a pellet)
My light bill including tank heater for the cattle runs about $80 a month.
However, I burn a bag o pellets a day ($3 each in our area) and I have a propane stove for backup when the electric goes off (pellet stoves need power to operate)
Your flue must be good, and well maintained.
If you go with an airtight stove, Burn Dry wood and heat it up hot then close her down it will burn long and steady.
Please be careful, I raised my children with wood heat, as did my father and my wifes family, but I have also seen folks burn down their home.

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Salmoneye

01-15-2004 11:11:39




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 Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Rob N VA, 01-15-2004 11:01:42  
"but I don't think I want to have to run outside to stoke the fire every few hours"

You will find that the outside boilers will burn for more than a day and up to 2 days on one load of wood depending on outside temp and thermostat setting...

3800 sq foot can be run from a single good size wood stove in the celler, but you will have to stoke a couple-three-four times a day (if not more)...

You also need a REAL chimney...It will either have to be brick with ceramic lining, or an insulated pipe (metal-bestos 2000 degree type) installed correctly...

Not trying to dissuade you...I love my old Ashley wood heater...The high here today is -15...I would freeze without wood...

Either shout for 'LesFortunate' over on Talers or on the KL board...He has an outside boiler and can give you lots better info than I on those...

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Rob N VA

01-15-2004 19:02:51




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 Re: Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Salmoneye, 01-15-2004 11:11:39  
Thanks Salmoneye!

Could you give me some particulars on your "Ashley" wood stove. Is this the model that I have seen at tractor supply? Did you do like I was planning and duct it through your basement into the first floor of your house? Others have stated that wood heat can be dangerous. Are we just talking about the obvious chimney fire danger from burning green, and wet wood, or is there something else that is not obvious to me?
The chimney in my basement is really just the bottom of the main chimney from the fireplace directly above in my livingroom. I do not know the orientation of how the inside of the chimney is laid out, but I assume that it is behind the one for the fireplace, and that they connect higher up in the stack. This is a brick house, and I assume just an insulated brick chimney. From what I have read this should suffice, correct? Thanks a million for giving me your input!---Rob

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Colin in WI

01-15-2004 21:48:04




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 Re: Re: Re: O.T. Wood Heat in reply to Rob N VA, 01-15-2004 19:02:51  
Rob, you need to be very sure of what you have for a chimney. Some older chimneys have a common flue connecting from multiple stove/fireplace openings. A more modern chimney might have a cleanout in the basement not really intended to be used for connecting a stove. If the opening in the basement is truly intended for a stove and is adequate for that purpose then it should be a dedicated flue running all the way to the chimney top with no other openings along the way. Years ago it wouldn't have mattered but today it would be considered too dangerous to use a shared flue. Others have discussed insurance considerations...this would be a big one in my judgement. If you have a dedicated flue in the basement then the next question that comes to mind is...does the chimney run up through the house or does it run up the outside? Not a dealbreaker but an outside chimney tends to build up more creosote because of the additional exposure to outside cold temps. To your question about danger...it's primarily the danger of having a chimney fire which is usually the result of a creosote buildup caused by running the stove at too low a temperature or burning unseasoned wood. An inadequate chimney itself is a danger and improper handling of the stove and ashes is also a danger. The stove needs to be installed with all required clearances, use of required heatshields near combustible walls and ceilings, on a fireproof hearth. Care loading the stove to not spill out coals or embers onto combustible floors, storage of wood away from the stove and removal of ashes to a closed steel barrel outside away from buildings and combustibles are all important.

If I haven't scared you away yet good! Burning wood can be rewarding. The heat produced is far superior to other sources of warmth and can really make you feel warm and cozy when it's cold and blowing outside. If you're careful and methodical about managing the stove you should be fine but if you or your family is going to be scared all the time don't do it. It's not worth the worry. I'm sure others will weigh in with more good advice. Good luck!

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