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Still Sputtering (part 3)

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Rob in Virginia

01-16-2004 21:15:34




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OK, so you all told me so.... I installed the new carb tonight and it started and ran great for the first 20 or so minutes and then wala, the old sputtering and backfiring started again... So now I have a new carb and a new coil, new plugs, new wires, new resistor and new distributor etc. I did notice that there is a huge leak in the exhaust manifold (lots of exhaust) and my exhaust pipe now has a hole in it from the backfires. So could the exhaust manifold be causing it to start sputtering and backfiring and eventually quitting on me after 30 minutes of running? I have not checked the compression, but why would this cause a problem once it heats up? Could my new electrical system be causing this? thanks for your help on the continuing saga.
rob

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Rob in VA

01-17-2004 13:52:23




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 Re: Still Sputtering (part 3) in reply to Rob in Virginia, 01-16-2004 21:15:34  
Well, today I worked most of the day on the ol tractor but it was a sputtin like mad, but she never quit on me. I took some advise and replace the in-line filter with a plastic see thru; gettin lots of fuel. But something happened towards the end of the day that makes me think I might have water in the gas...even though I have put gas in it a couple of times since it started actin up. when I changed the in line filter, I added some fuel additive (some expensive kind I got at a tractor store) anyway it kept on sputterin as I was levling a dirt lane (about 15 min) and then the last 20 minutes she ran like a champ. go figure... I am still going to fix the exaust manifold leak but I am wondering if that fixed the problem....I will see tomorrow. Oh, I did bypass the resistor when she was acting up, but there was no change. thanks ya all for the great advise, I continue to strive for that perfect running machine.
rob

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Upper Peninsula,Mich

01-17-2004 07:32:55




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 Re: Still Sputtering (part 3) in reply to Rob in Virginia, 01-16-2004 21:15:34  
Rob, the manifold is about the only thing you haven't replaced, rebuilt or had off and checked. I would go for it. Your problem has to be something that most people haven't experienced, something fairly rare, and the manifold just might be it. Good luck. Ron



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Glen

01-17-2004 07:05:56




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 Re: Still Sputtering (part 3) in reply to Rob in Virginia, 01-16-2004 21:15:34  
Rob I to would think the manifold. What part of Va are you in. Im in Front Royal.



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Rob in VA

01-17-2004 13:44:57




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 Re: Re: Still Sputtering (part 3) in reply to Glen, 01-17-2004 07:05:56  
I live in Yorktown, VA, not sure where Front Royal is located. thanks for the advise



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Steve W (NY)

01-17-2004 06:57:01




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 Re: Still Sputtering (part 3) in reply to Rob in Virginia, 01-16-2004 21:15:34  
The timely advice you get on this board is unbelievable

John's idea first (cheap), Dell's second. While you are getting a new manifold, get a new clamp and exhaust pipe. Pay careful attention to which way the clamp goes. Your ears will thank you.

Take Care.
Steve



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I know . . . Dell (WA)

01-16-2004 23:32:56




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 Re: Still Sputtering (part 3) in reply to Rob in Virginia, 01-16-2004 21:15:34  
Rob..... ....about 4 years ago, John tOTG, (one of the N-Board's original founding members and professional N-Tractor mechanic) posted a similar yet vague sputter problem. And he posed a "can you stump this one?" question ('cuz he'd spend days chasing that one)

Turns out that the EXHAUST manifold runner had internally burned thru to the INTAKE manifold runner and after about 1/2 hour of running, the manifold would heat up and expand the crack and allow exhaust into the intake and causing the engine to sputter and eventually quit.

So much for exhaust gas recirculation, eh? New manifold is $50, cheap. Castiron exhaust manifolds don't live forever and you can't weld repair them eather. Thanks for the continuing saga report and update..... ....Dell

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Joe (IN)

01-16-2004 22:06:54




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 Re: Still Sputtering (part 3) in reply to Rob in Virginia, 01-16-2004 21:15:34  
It sounds to me like your ignition switch is cashing in its chips. I know it sounds hard to believe that this would cause your problem, but it's happened to me. Install a jumper wire across the two terminals on the resistor block that the ignition switch ties to and see if that eliminates your problem. If so, then the switch is bad.



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