Sputtering all the time

So after this weekend the old 9N will have the following:
New Coil
New Plugs
New Wires
New Carb
New Distributor
New Rotar
New Points
New Cutoff
New Ignition
New Manifold
New Exhaust

The only thing I have not check is the compression, due to the fact that I am praying it is not that because that is a big job that I am not sure I am up to..... but if this dosn't work, I am going to creep up on her to check the compression....
thanks for all the help that you all provide, I would still be looking at her in the garage if it wasn't for y'all

Best of luck :)
stumpy

As I read your list, the only thing missing was a new ignition switch. $7 cheap. Gunked up ignition switch contacts can be jumpered around by a pre-made electrical wire with alligator clippies on each end. It generally takes about 15 minutes for a BAD ignition switch to go bad and "cures" itself over cold nite.

One of the founding N-Board Members used to claim that 80% of all Carb problems were solved in the ignition system..... ..... Dell

So many things can contribute to a poor performing N. Sometimes the only way to track a problem down is by looking at everything - including things you'd never suspect. I've experienced 2 "weird, how'd that happen?" ignition problems both of which took me a whole lotta time to find and I'm pretty dern good with these tractors.

Dell's suggestions to check the coil and the ignition switch are well within the normal things to check. From hundreds or thousands of miles away, it is difficult to nail down "THE" problem from a short description the first time. I'm not defending Dell specifically, but all of us who try to assist people who need help with their tractors. Sometimes we get it right the first time, sometimes we don't. When we don't get it right we take no pleasure in sending someone on a wild goose chase.

That 'coil' and 'key' switch check is way at the top of the trouble shooting list. Easy to check, and alot easier to replace than tearing into other more expensive things first.. like replacement carbs, etc.

Like Evil Steve & Dell pointed out. We aren't there to see why the tractor isn't running We are merely throwing out plausible causes that have shown to be problems on many other tractors in similar conditions with similar symptoms. The tract record of this board and its members is clearly available via the archives. I would think you would be hard pressed to find this much N-knowledge and experience in another forum.. etc.

Soundguy

1) Carb not set correctly. You posed earlier that you have to shut the fuel off to keep from over flowing. That shouldn't be so. Take the carb off, run a little gas through the line. Split the carb, turn upside down and adjust the float so you can slide a 1/4" drill bit under it without touching. Clean good with carb cleaner and carefully re-assemble.

2) Start tractor and spray a little carb cleaner at the intake manifold. If it's leaking, the engine will change. It has a crack and needs replaced.

3) Timing. Set it with a light. Hook power leads to a donor bat, and the pickup lead to the #1 plug.

Let us know what happens.

One other thing. Remove the float, gently grab the needle by the end while in the seat and twist it a bit...they're rubber tipped, so I have no idea why it helps to seat it, but it seems to. Then re-assemble and set the float. Sometimes it takes a couple times to get it working correctly. Once it's together, I have no idea what is binding, but I've got it wrong, not changed anything, re-assembled, and it was fixed.

Also, make sure your floats are straight with the carb. Had my grandmothers carb that was done by ford garage (told dad I'd do it, but nooooo oo :) ) was installed wrong...I had to fix that too.

I like using the triangular brass needles. The aluminum smaller ones don't seem to drop out of the seat as nicely.