O.T. Please explain this to me

So I am at a loss here, what is the ABS system makes an electric motor sound??? And is aparently somewhere near the transfer case. At first I thought the electric motor that shifts it ito and out of 4x4 had gone screwey, but it seemed to shift fine when I tried to put it in 4x4. Besides, why would that make the ABS idiot light go off? Any thoughts or suggestions before I call my mechanic and spend more money than I have to? Thanks in advance for the help!!!!--Rob

The problem is the module that is mounted on top of the ABS assy. The part is around 750.00 and you can replace just the module. The module is mounted with 4 T20 torx screws but if you replace it yourself besure to use a air nozzle and blow out the dirt in the screw heads so the bit will fit good, if you dont you may have to grind the head off, been there and done that. Also take it loose from the frame and pull it down for more room. Hope this helps Steve PS you dont have to remove brake lines

The source of your problem could be either an electronic problem, or a physical problem with the pump, or a stuck valve, or a bad sensor.

Before panicking completely, find a reasonable place with the appropriate scan tool to pull the trouble codes. The repairs needed could run from minor to outta sight!

Sorry to vent. Anyway, if you find a way to disconnect the ABS and keep the cruise control please post a message detailing the process. If you replace the ABS module, I'll be praying for your safety.

I never had it happen again after I got studded snow tires on the car, but when the opportunity came up to trade the Caprice for a Crown Victoria, I took the Ford. The only time I ever was aware of the ABS in the Ford was when I felt pulsation in the brake pedal while braking very hard.

I too have never had ABS on a vehicle I owned, and I really don't want it. It seems like something that adds a lot of complexity and expense to a vehicle. I do not think ABS is necessary, but it is fairly hard to find a recent model car or pickup without it.

Maybe ABS is OK, if it is working right, but in my personal experience, Ford really had a better idea than Chevy. And the scare I had would make me skeptical of buying a GM vehicle. One of the few things I DEMAND of a vehicle is that it stop when I ask it to.....

"The anti-lock brake system tests itself every time the vehicle is started and every time the brakes are applied. The system evaluates its own signals. If a defect is detected, the system then turns off, leaving normal braking unaffected"

I just replaced the ABS module on my 2000 GMC Yukon... was about an 800$ part...

Soundguy

( I didn't repair it myself.. shop did it.. as -some- of the work was covered under my extended warranty )

That ABS module I had replaced, well, at the same time, the fuel sending unit in the tank went out, as well as the engine computer.

Literally we were going down the road, and the engine quit.. dead.. no nothing... no cranking.. etc.. just like it had no battery..

Towed to the dealer. abs was bad, ecm was bad, and fuel sensor/sender was bad. All in one shot.. -bang- dead.

In all they replaced those three systems, and a wire harness, and an ignition fuse.. cost me 2100$.. An extended warranty covered about 2/3's of it.. no recals that I could find. Boy was I bummed out with GM that day... I feel that this was an electrical problem in one of the three involved systems.. and was a design defect.. that they should address. I've taked to others that have GMC's and had similar multi-system failures like this.

Soundguy

There is a lot of people who are making payments on inoperative systems that they paid for when they bought their newer vehicles. Maybe you should just make the light out on your ABS system and quit paying for it. CHEAPER.

Have the same sorta situation with my lady's Chrylser LeBaron that has broken "clock springs" in the steering wheel. She is only missing the air bag. Cost of part....$195.00. I just unhooked the system. Put the light out.

• ABS Brakes 101