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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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Ford 2N Clutch Question

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Rob

06-16-2004 06:57:39




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I recently purchased a "restored" Ford 2N that has an auxilliary transmission on the left (does not look like a Sherman as it has a thin/straight shaft). When I push the clutch all the way down, I am not able to put the tractor in any gear for 3 - 5 seconds until the clutch stops the output shaft from spinning (if trying to shift, can hear the gears grind). After the 3 - 5 seconds, all gears shift easily and the clutch holds the power until I am ready to drive away. Any ideas on what I could do to make the clutch stop the power more quickly?

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Rob

06-16-2004 19:33:19




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 Re: Ford 2N Clutch Question in reply to Rob, 06-16-2004 06:57:39  
You can't expect to shift that tranny without some grind unless your ground speed is zero. When you push in the clutch that should also be engage the brake stopping the tractor so you can shift. The pto shaft should stop spinning when you push in the clutch. Sounds like your clutch isn't disengaging.
Adjust the clutch. The clutch pedal should be up against the pedal stop with 3/16" free travel before resistance is met. That's 3/16" between the top of the clutch pedal and the pedal stop. The pedal should travel another 1 9/16" until the pedal contacts the brake pawl arm. To adjust the pedal free travel, disconnect the the clutch rod clevis and turn to lengthen the rod to increase free travel. Sounds like you need to shorten it to decrease free travel. Then you have to move the brake pawl arm to get the 1 9/16". Hope you have some adjustment, you should have in that "restored" N. Why do you put quotes around restored?

I can set my throttle to 3/4 and shift gears without grinding so long as my ground speed is zero. That means I can set the throttle and forget it while I work.
Mowing, I can leave the throttle set at 3/4 and stop to shift to high or reverse or engage the pto or whatever. I just operate the clutch, shifter, brake and steering while I mow leaving the throttle where I set it in the barnyard. I might not touch the throttle until I get back into the barnyard after 4 hours of mowing. Same when I'm blading the lane, set the throttle before I shift into gear and leave it alone until I'm done. Well, if I road it I usually pull it to full throttle but I don't road it much.
Shifting can be near impossible if you don't have an ORC while running a bush hog, btw.

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Rob

06-17-2004 07:26:21




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 Re: Re: Ford 2N Clutch Question in reply to Rob, 06-16-2004 19:33:19  
Thanks for the info!

I was talking about zero ground speed! Start it and try to put in gear to back out of barn.

I call it "restored" because I had someone re-build it for me and have had way too many initial (less than 1 hour use) problems!



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Rob

06-17-2004 09:02:49




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 Re: Re: Re: Ford 2N Clutch Question in reply to Rob, 06-17-2004 07:26:21  
Sure hope the clutch adjust solves the problem.
I see you posting about many and sundry issues. You should come out the other side pretty soon.



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souNdguy

06-16-2004 12:31:10




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 Re: Ford 2N Clutch Question in reply to Rob, 06-16-2004 06:57:39  
third party image

Keep inmind that there are two types of sherman shifters. The bent 'dog leg' units for the combo.. and the straight thin shafts ( like athick round pencil.. and a round ball on top )

Here's a pic of mine.. it is an overdrive unit.. yours similar?

Soundguy

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Richard Fazio

06-16-2004 09:56:27




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 Re: Ford 2N Clutch Question in reply to Rob, 06-16-2004 06:57:39  
The transmition in your N is not a modern syncromesh type. It will grind if you try to shift too quickly. You will especially notice it if you have the engine running at a high setting. If you have it idling and the transmision is cold it will stop grinding quickly. The cold oil is think and makes it slow down quickly. Just take your time with it.



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OH Boy

06-16-2004 07:08:57




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 Re: Ford 2N Clutch Question in reply to Rob, 06-16-2004 06:57:39  
My 2N is the same way, just gotta give it a few seconds for everything to stop spinning before you shift.



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