Burned Out Coil Question

Regulator to Alternator (F Connections)
Regulator to Coil
Regulator to Solenoid

Alternator to ammeter
Alternator to regulator (F Connections)
Alternator to base of regulator for ground

Ammeter (+) to Alternator
Ammeter (+) to ignition switch
Ammeter (-) to Solenoid

Coil to resistor (not sure it works)to Solenoid
Coil to distributor x 2

thanks

Here is a suggestion that might help you to get a handle on this wiring thing. Get a wiring schematic for a 60's American made car/truck that has an alternator with an external voltage regulator. The wiring will be virtually the same as for your fork lift. Some of the components may look a little different, but the functionality is the same. Electricity behaves the same way and has the same requirements whether it is on a tractor or forklift or car. If you can't find a schematic, send me an email and I will send one to you. Good luck with it and remember that "Patience" is your best tool.

I installed the 12V conversion on the old 9N last night and she is working better than she has in over a year. Word of caution, the conversion kit you buy from this site claims to have a 12v coil and mayby it is, but you need an additional resister besides the "infamous ballast resister" already present in the system. Now if i can just get that old forklift charging I will be one happy camper....thanks again

rob

There are two types of 12 volt conversions used with the GM alternators, a one wire and a three wire. I did the three wire conversion on my Jubilee project and it works great.

As stated here, the old regulator is not needed/used with the GM alternator but the terminals on the regulator can be used as a junction point (terminal block) if needed. I did not use and terminals on the old regulator on the Jubilee. I did use the actual terminal blocks beside the regulator as a junction point (parallel junction) for a couple of connections. I made most of my connections on the 12 volt post on the starter solenoid. If you use the 3 wire conversion here is a quick description of what I did.

• Big post on alt to (-) post on ammeter, (+) post on ammeter to 12V post on solenoid using # 10 gauge wire.
• P1 (or alternator connection terminal #1(the one next to the big terminal on alt) to 12 V marker light bulb or diode to load side of switch (marker light or diode in series with P1 and load side of switch) this excites the alternator to start charging and allows the switch to stop the engine when turned off. (# 12 or 14 gauge wire.)
• P 2 (the one to the right of P 1 (looking at alt. from the rear) on alternator connection terminal to big post on alternator (basically a jumper wire. This circuit monitors the voltage output of the alternator and tells it how much to regulate itself). (#12 or 14 gauge wire)
• Load side of switch (parallel with P1/marker light circuit) to ballast resister terminal (if used); ballast resister outlet to (+) terminal of 6V coil; (-) terminal of 6V coil to distributor.(#12 or 14 gauge wire)
• Line side of switch to 12 V post on solenoid. (# 12 or 14 gauge wire)

I believe this is correct if my memory serves me correctly.

However, the front mount coil on your 9N may need an additional resister in conjunction with the ballast resister because the primary resistance of the 6V front mount is different that the 6V side mount coil.

Dell has written some good information on doing the 12V conversions on the front mount coils.

HTH Rick H. GA.

I'm gonnna assume you know the difference between an alternator and a generator. And when you say "alternator" that implies a 12 volt conversion, you really should explicitly state type of battery system. You should really state which model of N-Tractor you are talking about because the OEM electrical system is different and must be modified differently. And in addition, sometimes it really helps to know WHY you ask your question.

You wrote: (I'm gonnna add some line numbers so we both know what we're talking about)

1) Regulator to Alternator (F Connections)
2) Regulator to Coil
3) Regulator to Solenoid

4) Alternator to ammeter
5) Alternator to regulator (F Connections)
6) Alternator to base of regulator for ground

7) Ammeter (+) to Alternator
8) Ammeter (+) to ignition switch
9) Ammeter (-) to Solenoid

10) Coil to resistor (not sure it works) to Solenoid
11) Coil to distributor x 2 Now specifically to answer your wiring questions:
Sounds like wire #1 is the same as #5, is it?
Sounds like wire #4 is the same as #7, is it?
Sounds like wire #2 & 3 are the same as #10, is it?

Iff'n this is a typical 12 volt conversion, and the popular Delco 10SI was used, it ALREADY has a built-in voltage regulator, and so the uses of OEM squarecan voltage regulator is somewhat dis-ingenuous except to use as a wiring tiepoint. Howsomevers, iff'n instead, this is a NON-STANDARD alternator that requires an EXTERNAL voltage regulator, all betts are OFF!!!

I know 8-ways to convert to 12 volts and they all work, some are more elegant than others. But your 12 volt conversion (iff'n thats what it is) doesn't match my knowledge base.

You also wrote..... "Will leaving your key on without the engine running burn out the points and the coil?..... YES, if the points are closed..... . "If not, is my system wired wrong?"..... .it mustta been wired correctly, 'cuz its been running. Iff'n its stopped, must be for a reason. And until you understand the simple principles behind how a 12 volt conversion works, don't un-wire 'nuttin'..... ...respectfully, Dell a 12 volt advocate for the right reason.

The system I am reffering to is not on a N seriers tractor but an old fork lift that I am attemting to wire correctly. The knowlege that I have seen on this board led me to ask the general electrical wiring question. The reason I asked was because someone has left the ignition key on twice and it has burned out two coils and points in a matter of minutes and I have inadvertently done the same thing on my 9N and it has not caused the same problem (maybe lucky I guess). The forklift runs good, but I am concerned with its wiring and I don't have a manual for the engine. Anyway, to answer your questions: Yes to all except that the # 2 wire goes to the coil(+) and # 10 wire then goes from coil to the resistor then to the solenoid. The # 3 wire goes straight to the solenoid. I believe that maybe the coil should be wired to the ignition switch but not sure. I am also worried about the resistor coming off the coil and what it is there for. Anyway, as for the 12 volt conversion on my 9N, that is tonight's project so I am sure I will be coming back here with an appropriate topic for this board. thanks for all the help, I have leaned a lot.
rob

So far.. looks like you have been lucky enough that your points have been open when you left your key on in your N.

Once you get the alt wired correctly.. if it doesn't charge.. take it in for a free test with its v-reg.

Soundguy

F on reg. to F on altenator

R on altenator to no. 2 on reg

No. 3 on reg, to battery, or acc on ign. switch No4 on reg. through resistor to ign. switch

Ground on altenator to base of reg.

Before I start, I am not getting any charge out of the alternator so I think something is wired wrong. According to a generic wiring diagram I have, the Reg is wired as follows

F: goes to F on the alternator
2: goes to the coil
3: goes to the solenoid
4: is not used

R on the alternator is not used.

Ground from alternator is wired to base of regulator which is bolted to frame.

So with that being said, which wiring schematic do I use.....I have been doing a lot of research on this via the net and have yet to come accross a common way to wire this thing.
thanks

What are the two connections to the coil? Looks like you have the coil wired thru a resistor to the hot? side of the solenoid? sounds like their is no key involved ad the coil is energized all the time.. If the eninge stops with the points closed those suckers are gonna get hot.

Yes.. leaving power to the coil on will burn the contacts, overheat the coil, and kill your battery.

Soundguy