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Starter Drive questions

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rob 8N11071 KS

03-27-2001 17:43:20




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I pulled my starter (which wasn't disengaging after the engine started) and inspected the starter bendix. I am not sure what I am looking for, but the bendix I am used to on my jet ski moves much more freely than this one does.

So the shortest path to getting up and running is getting a new starter drive. What is the advantage of the "positive drive" starter drives sold? These apparently require some sort of modification to the starter housing? Are they worth it?

Also, there's almost NO information about replacing the starter drive in my F&O manual. Any tips? Do I lube the new one lightly before putting it back in? I don't have to align anything right? Because the ring gear shouldn't engage the starter bendix unless the starter is turning...

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Ed Gooding (VA)

03-28-2001 03:39:54




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 Re: Starter Drive questions in reply to rob 8N11071 KS , 03-27-2001 17:43:20  
Hi Rob: Here's a picture of what Dell was talking about on grinding your starter hole around 1:00-2:00 to ease starter installation:

third party image

And, here's a tip from forum member John Bower that may also help your installation:




Problem with getting a starter back on is the Bendix engages as you try to wiggle it past the flywheel. I've made a “putt-ten-tee” to prevent this problem. Cut a piece of thin metal (20 gauge) about 3" long and the width of the exposed shaft between the starter and the Bendix (7/8"?). Bend the metal in a U shape, so that it will wrap over the shaft. Now when you wiggle and cuss the starter in place, the Bendix won't engage. Once it's past the flywheel you can remove the putt-ten-tee and bolt up the starter. I've used this dozens of times without fail.

Hope this helps..... ..... Ed
'52 8N475798

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Dell (WA)

03-27-2001 18:07:43




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 Re: Starter Drive questions in reply to rob 8N11071 KS , 03-27-2001 17:43:20  
Rob..... .NEVER lube a starter drive!!!

If'n I was replacing my starter drive tonight, I'd sure nuff want the "positive clutch drive" type. It doesn't kick out right aways when you're having trouble starting. The're good drives.

Yeah, ya gotts to grind off a little metal at about 1-2 o'clock, but many do that anyways with the old fashioned Bendix drive because they've had such a bitchin' time getting the starter out in the first place. It does make it go back in eazier, doesn't structurally weaken the tractor, and besides the starter when bolted up hides it anyways.

BTW, don't mucka rounda 'sperimenting with the starter drive and accidently "extend it" cuzz then you'll never get it installed without a lotta moannin' an' groannin'..... ..Dell

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tlak

03-27-2001 18:51:07




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 Re: Re: Starter Drive questions in reply to Dell (WA), 03-27-2001 18:07:43  
I just replaced my starter drive on my 55 Ford Truck and thought I found an different source for starter drives for tractors maybe cheaper. The truck one turned out so expensive that I called the tractor dealer to see if theirs was cheaper, no luck. I did see two differnet ways to reload the starter drive. One the parts guy dropped some pencil lead (I guess something hard enought to hold but would grind to power later) into a slot or grove on the twisted part that the drive loads on, messed with that a while trying to replicate, no luck and the second was the starter drive was held on a fan belt till it reloaded how it would in normal operation.

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