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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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Warm Starting

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barnabas_12

04-21-2005 07:42:00




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My 9N does will not start warm. It starts great cold - and I can turn off and re-start cold fine. However, after running awhile, if I shut it off, it will not re-start. Does not "pop" at all, as if no spark. Initially, I only had the throttle half way, then cranked with it up for awhile. Tried choke, then starting fluid, nothing. Let it sit overnight, and it pops right off again. Battery is great, will crank it forever - pretty fast too. Restoration was completed over the winter, so it probably never has really been warm before (at least since I owned it). Any insight would be appreciated.

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Barnabas_12

04-25-2005 07:30:02




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 Re: Warm Starting in reply to barnabas_12, 04-21-2005 07:42:00  
Thanks for the input, guy. I know how to go about this now. This is just the help I needed. I"ll let you know.



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Jerry (AL)

04-21-2005 19:14:47




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 Re: Warm Starting in reply to barnabas_12, 04-21-2005 07:42:00  
Thanks to Dell's advice beack last year, I cured that problem. I jumped the switch and it would crank hot. Replaced the switch and haven't had a problem since. I also had the 30 minute and quit problem about 2 years ago and the coil cured that. Hope it's simple.

Got a Massey 255 right now that's beginning to drive me a little batty though. When the tractor gets hot it will develop a fuel leak and it will drip down on the exhaust manifold. It takes a couple of hours. Don't like those little puffs of smoke to start up. The thing is that I have had that tank off twice and fixed leaks and had an expert fix leaks and still can't seem to get them all. Guess I'm going to solve this problem with a new tank soon.

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JohnMD

04-21-2005 13:58:49




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 Re: Warm Starting in reply to barnabas_12, 04-21-2005 07:42:00  
I don't disagree with either Dell or souNdGuy But if what they say don't cure the problem check the ballast resister. I had the same problem. It would start when I jumpered to the coil but I could not find out what was the cause of not starting hot normally. I jumpered out the resister and it started right up. Replaced it and have not had the same problem since, 4-5 years. I don't know what was wrong but a new one fixed it.

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Dell (WA)

04-21-2005 08:05:31




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 Re: Warm Starting in reply to barnabas_12, 04-21-2005 07:42:00  
Barney..... ..there are 4 common runtime issues with frontmount engines:

1) runs for about 1 min and quits; BAD CONDENSER
not yer stated problem
2) runs for about 5 mins and quits; CLOGGED fuel filters (3)
not yer stated problem
3) runs for about 1 hr and quits; restarts the next morning; BAD IGNITION COIL
could be yer problem, but I DOUBT IT 4) runs for about 15 mins and quits; restarts after cooldown
Sound like yer problem? BAD IGNITION SWITCH guttz

Unfortunately, N-Ignition switches are NOT the most ROBUST. I went thru 3 in 1 summer of mowing. Finally got gryped and bought a 25A marine grade toggle switch. Keys, eh? who needs'em?..... ..Dell

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souNdguy

04-21-2005 07:55:42




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 Re: Warm Starting in reply to barnabas_12, 04-21-2005 07:42:00  
My guess would be bad ignition switch.. bad electrical connections at the switch, resistor or coil, or the coil itself.

Try this. Next time you reun it ..get it warm.. shut it down.. try to restart.. if it won't, jumper right from battery tot he top post on the coil with a wire and some aligator clips. if it starts.. could be bad wireing at the key switch or ressitor block.. or a bad key switch. Remotely, could also be a weak coil needing the higher volts that a 'cold' resistor' allowed.

Soundguy

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BobNOhio

04-21-2005 14:51:58




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 Re: Warm Starting in reply to souNdguy, 04-21-2005 07:55:42  
I have to say this... I have two running 2N's that have never had the switches replaced. Both
run almost daily, What's with the (wimpy) switches ,or did I just get lucky with
two as in (2) tractors?? Both are 1946 models.
One has been rebuilt twice and the other 3 times. What are you guys doing to these tractors to destroy the switches?



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souNdguy

04-21-2005 20:25:14




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 Re: Warm Starting in reply to BobNOhio, 04-21-2005 14:51:58  
There are alot of wire diagrams out there that show you drawing power thru the ignition switch for headlamps. It simply just isn't rated for that load.

Also.. wher ethe tractor is/was stored for those 50-60 years will make a big difference on life.

My NAA and 660 have oem switches. My 8n had a toggle switch when i got it. My 2n had the oem switch, but died about 4 months after I got the tractor. Its ironic.. the switch lasted 58+ years out in the weather.. I buy the tractor.. garage it for 4 months and the switch dies.. go figure!!

Soundguy

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Jerry (AL)

04-21-2005 19:17:16




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 Re: Warm Starting in reply to BobNOhio, 04-21-2005 14:51:58  
Just take a look at the quality of replacement items these days. Someone had already replaced mine with a piece of junk. I just put on a new piece of junk. Next time I will go with Dell's toggle.



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BobNOhio

04-21-2005 14:49:13




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 Re: Warm Starting in reply to souNdguy, 04-21-2005 07:55:42  
I have to say this... I have two running 2N's that have never had the switches replaced. Both
run almost daily, What's with the (wimpy) switches ,or did I just get lucky with
two as in (2) tractors?? Both are 1946 models.
One has been rebuilt twice and the other 3 times. What are you guys doing to these tractors to destroy the switches?



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