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Rob
05-15-2005 03:55:22
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Re: 9N SPITS AND SPUTTERS in reply to BIGMOE, 05-15-2005 00:06:15
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I think Ron has it right, you have an electrical problem. You want to correct this problem and get trouble-free starting and operation then you should do some things. First, don"t go buy a bunch of parts to fix the tractor. Figure out what"s wrong, fix it, and then if you want to replace parts go right ahead. Troubleshooting and inspection will tell you if you need to replace parts.
I take it when you say "crank" you mean "start" and "fire" and "run." "Crank" is what the hand crank or starter does to the engine. Normally you "crank" the engine, it "fires", and then "runs." Back to your problem which I believe is that it is hard starting because it won"t fire and then runs rough with no power.
Pull a plug wire and bend it. Plug wires that show surface cracks when bent should be replaced. Remove the spark plug, connect the wire back to it, turn on the key, ground the plug to the head, and crank the engine through several revolutions for about 10-seconds or more. You need to see a regular, snappy, blue spark and a wimpy, yellow spark is not enough. If the plug electrodes are damaged you will need to check the others and replace them as needed. A wimpy, yellow spark tells you you"re on the right track and an irregular spark says distributor mechanical problems. A regular yellow spark says electrical problems so then you want to start at the top of the coil all work all the way back to the solenoid and remove and clean all small wire terminals, replace or repair any damaged or corroded wires, and inspect all electrical parts. Clean, bright, and tight is the necessary goal. Ignition switch, resister, regulator...whatever. Clean, bright, and tight. Might as well clean both ends of both battery cables while you"re at it. And the other cable too. And the genny wires just so you got it done because dirty, corroded, and damaged wires, terminals, and cables give a 6v system owner fits.
If the wiring is rough you might want to replace it all with a $15 wiring harness from your local farm/ranch store rather than fret over and rework a bunch of terminals and crappy wires.
Get that wiring in order and see if you got that regular, snappy blue spark and she fires up and runs good. Before you run to town pull the distributor cap and watch the points open and close while you bump the starter. You need 0.015" gap on clean points. If the points look good then drag a dollar bill between the closed points to clean them up. If the points are burnt, corroded or missing then put them on your shopping list along with a condenser. Inspect the rotor for damage at the hub and tip. If it"s cracked up and the tip is missing or burnt up you need new. Replace the cap if it has carbon tracks, cracks, or other damage. If it has "other damage" then figure out why or post the info to this board. Sometimes the 9N/2N has axle/king pin problems that bust up a cap. If there"s moisture in there you need a gasket or to reseat the bail over the coil so remove the bail and coil and reseat the bail fully into the distributor body. Put the coil and gasket back on and slip the bail up the front and back over the top and do not pull out one end of the bail to remove the coil. Don"t do it that way.
Look for a leaky radiator there in the lower corner near the hose bib. Bad king pin can cause radiator damage the wets the distributor that leads to your type problem.
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