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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum

Starter gear won't retract.

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Rob

08-02-2005 08:04:30

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I"ve never had a Bendix extended that won"t retract and it"s been a long time since I"ve had to work on a starter other than to slap in a bearing or brushes.
But it I remember right, and I"ve worked a couple-few Ford starters, you put the the juice to starter in free air there off the engine and the Bendix drives out to the end of the shaft and then retracted just fine. Reason being, a good starter spins plenty fast to cause the Bendix to retract. Least ways when the starter is off the engine like that it spins plenty fast to retract the Bendix.
Now if I"m remembering right and a good working order starter spins plenty fast to retract the Bendix then these extended Bendix must be on starters that don"t spin fast enough. I"m thinking the problem is in the starter. If I were to run into this extended Bendix problem then I would pull the end plate and inspect the bronze bearing for wear. I would look for scoring or an egg shaped hole and I would clean it up along with the shaft. I would check for radial play in the front end cap bearing and I would look for worn brushes.
I just can"t help but think that a starter in good working order will spin that Bendix in free air fast enough to retract. Maybe I"m wrong about that but that"s how I remember. I just know I"ve spun those starters in free air and the bendix engaged and then retracted. Of course the Bendix has to be clean and assembled dry. You don"t have to polish and fret cleaning a Bendix, just get it rinse in a clean drying solvent, nothing special and do not use any wax or lube. If you want to lube the thing then use dry graphite powder. It is the best lube out there anyway, and it"s dry.

WD-40 is only just passable as a solvent and does not dry clean. Paint thinner/mineral spirits/Stoddard solvent/white spirits/dry cleaning solvent is a good, clean drying solvent. And it is not so flammable as kerosene or gasoline. Or you can get a $7/gal parts washer solvent (probably pretty much paint thinner/mineral spirits/Stoddard solvent/white spirits/dry cleaning solvent). MMO is a fine solvent but it"s like 98%, or more, paint thinner/mineral spirits/Stoddard solvent/white spirits/dry cleaning solvent. It also costs more. Or you can spend a couple-few dollars on brake cleaner but it drys so dang fast you can"t work it any. You can"t dunk the part in there and brush, slosh, and rinse.

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uh . . . Dell (WA)

08-02-2005 16:31:48

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Re: Starter gear won't retract. in reply to Rob, 08-02-2005 08:04:30

Rob..... ...thats the trouble, the Bendix is designed to extend into the flywheel ring gear. That is the ONLY direction the starter motor can move the Bendix screw; INTO the flywheel ring gear. Doesn't matter iff'n its a suck'em into from behind the flywheel, or push'em into from infront the flywheel.

When the engine starts, its rotational velocity is greater than the starter motor rotational velocity, therefore the starter Bendix "UN-SCREWS" from contact with the flywheel ring gear.

Running a starter motor in "free-air" DOES NOT RETRACT the Bendix screw ...EVER... Understand? Remember, no-matter what the battery polarity, the starter motor ALWAYS turns the correct direction to ENGAGE the Bendix screw. And the running engine ALWAYS turns the correct direction to dis-engage the Bendix screw.

And YES, Bendix drives MUST-BE SQUEEKIE CLEAN. I use acetone or spray brake-cleaner. WD-40, kerosene, mineral spirits, Stoddards, MMO, all leave "deposits" and will gunk-up yer Bendix screw..... ....respectfully, Dell

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Rob

08-02-2005 17:13:44

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Re: Starter gear won't retract. in reply to uh . . . Dell (WA), 08-02-2005 16:31:48

I just fire up an old style bendix and it ran out (in) and came back on it"s own. I might not have ever spun a new style in free air. Just never have much call to do that. Seems like I"ve done it years ago though. Maybe they were all the old style also. Doesn"t remember that way, but maybe.

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