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9n oil system

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00fxd

08-27-2005 12:22:58




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Re; my earlier thread, As I suspected I have decided that it is not a good idea to replace the oil pump/main cap assy on my existing engine. When I removed the pump there was no pump to block gasket or cover plate to pump body gasket. I see the pump kit comes with 1 gasket. Where should the gasket be? That might be the culpret for my drain down after sitting. My pick up tube, and oil pump housing looks real good. Does rebuilding the pump require any special tools, removing the big gear etc? I see a costly oil pump rebuild tool kit. I have located some .002under [smallest avail] rod bearings so hopfully this will help address my shim issue. On re-assembly do we still install the rod nut cotter keys, or just torque the rod nuts and call them good like on todays engines? If not I will buy some non-castelated rod nuts.
More comments please? :-)

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Paul K in IL

08-30-2005 00:00:36




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 Re: 9n oil system in reply to 00fxd, 08-27-2005 12:22:58  
Last weekend I just took apart an engine that had been put togather with no cotter pins on some of the connecting rods and I took one of the nuts off #3 rod with my fingers. Needless to say it hammered real bad before we tore it down. when it goes back togather it will have cotter pins in every nut. It is not worth leaving them out.

Paul K.



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00fxd

08-30-2005 08:52:42




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 Re: 9n oil system in reply to Paul K in IL, 08-30-2005 00:00:36  
Thanks Paul, That sure answers my question!



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murn-ga

08-27-2005 14:38:04




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 Re: 9n oil system in reply to 00fxd, 08-27-2005 12:22:58  
To answer one of your questions,yes the bushing must be reamed and exat.I suggest taking to NH dealer or a good shadetree mechanic.



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Bob

08-27-2005 12:51:11




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 Re: 9n oil system in reply to 00fxd, 08-27-2005 12:22:58  
You wouldn't want a gasket between the oil pump body/main bearing cap and the engine block, as this would affect main bearing clearance.

A successfull oil pump rebuild requires that the bushing has not got worn bad enough that the gears have moved and cut into the pump housing. If the housing is worn, even with replacement of the shaft, gears, and bushing, the pump will never be as good as a new one.

As to whether to use a gasket (if available) between the pump cover and body, the thickness of the gasket will affect the end clearance of the gears. If they are not too tight without a gasket, adding one will only cause more INTERNAL leakage, and could affect how well the pump primes, and it's putput pressure.

If you want to seal those areas up, use a very thin application or anaerobic gasket compound/fange sealer.

As far as using the cotter pins, I can see no reason NOT to use them, and long as the bolts are drilled, and you have the correct castellated nuts.

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00fxd

08-27-2005 15:51:39




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 Re: 9n oil system in reply to Bob, 08-27-2005 12:51:11  
Thanks for the replies fella's.
I must be losing my mind. Of course theres no pump to block gasket because that is the main cap of which I speak. The gasket in the kit is for the cover. So... running with out a pump cover gaskt as it has been, which should be no problem. 2 machined surfaces should not leak, and should increase pressure. The gear bushing is very good, the housing is not scored. I am hoping not to put this old girl together and still have the oil prime go away again and not want to come back on start-up after sitting for a couple of weeks. Also, I just thought maybe everyone has quit using the cotter keys, they could be a pain. Once you get them torqued you always have to adjust to get them lined up.

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Dell (WA)

08-27-2005 16:19:50




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 Re: 9n oil system in reply to 00fxd, 08-27-2005 15:51:39  
00fxd..... ...the original piston rod nuts were double nutted with sheetmetal "pal-nuts" at 5ft/lbs. Iff'n yer concerned about loosening yer 40ft/lb rod-nuts, I'd "Lock-Tite" 'em and loose the sheetmetal pal-nuts. As for the MAIN-BEARING caps, torque to 100ft/lbs. And I'd lock-tite 'em too instead of safety wiring or cotter-keying.

"FYI: In early production engines, the main bearing caps were held in place by studs and nuts. Later production engines used cap screws, which can be substitiuted for studs on engines originally so equipped, if desired."..... ...Dell

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00fxd

08-27-2005 18:49:54




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 Re: 9n oil system in reply to Dell (WA), 08-27-2005 16:19:50  
Dell; Thanks for your reply.
You must be kidding. Sheet metal "pal nuts" or "speed nuts" are used for holding trim on cars. 5 ft lbs?

Here is a link to pal nuts. Is this what you mean?>Link

My>Link engine has studded mains.
Rod bolts with castle nuts, not original?
The cotter keyed rod bolts and nuts must be pretty old as well.
I'm having fun fooling with this old rig. Learning stuff too.

Frank.

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