should I figure to rebuild the engine?

Good luck, and do some testing before spending the big bucks on a rebuild.

Dan

Does anybody have an aftermarket backhoe attachment for the 8 or 9N ?
If so ...what can I expect from this attachment.
I have to dig a 4 foot deep footer for a new building foundation. I would appreciate if anybody can tell IF new or used backhoe's are availble for these old tactors

I have seen it only once and the PO didn't know exactly what model he had .

I'm new to tractors... I would not have a clue at this point, as the where to find this info on the tractor.

I won't have it home for a few days yet.

It had been sitting for some time and it started up and ran perfectly ...no smoke either

ALL or ANY info would be appreciated

Thank you,
Robb Pearson. at the Sheep Dip Cafe' & Jeep Ewe'porium
near Syracuse area of NY

Iff'n you went out and bought a N-Tractor specifically to dig a foundation, you've squandered yer money. Back-hoe attachements are NOT COMMON nor are they very powerfull.

Rent a real back-hoe or hire a back-hoe operator to dig yer foundation trench. You'll be dollars ahead..... ...respectfully, Dell

The Tractor:
No the 8N was not bought for backhoeing.
Just for general hauling of stuff around the lot.
We are putting in a commercial building on our 2nd lot. This is the second building we have done ourselves. However, we have called around and every backhoe tractor with or without an operator is unbelieveably expensive. Also, nobody can get here until at least October. We started this project in April and so far, it has taken us four wasted months of stupid local code officer legal run-a-round crap to get to the actual building stage.
We live in the back woods of upstate NY where there are plenty of farms and tractors. However, all with front end buckets etc.

One company would rent to us for just under $1000/wk. Not too bad except before we even start, we just need on 6ft deep hole for the perc test

It looks like we will be digging this hole by hand ...and my Linda is not a large gal either ! Ha ha!

So, yesterday, I had the bright idea perhaps I could buy a backhoe attachment ? Unlike a professional, I don't have to worry about being too swift to get in & out to the next job !

BTW (1)Dell, what is your knowledge of the demon liquid measure on a beer glass.
(2) ...and if this knowledge gets out across the USA restaurant alcohol sales & huge profits could be ruined nation wide.

Thanks for your reply... I hope there will be some company that makes these small backhoes... and there are people who can direct me???

best e'gards,
Aussie Robb at the Sheep Dip Cafe' & Jeep Ewe'porium.
near Syracuse NY

Cousin of mine continues to use this tractor to maintain his property and it continues to amaze me regarding its durability.

Dean

Start it again and observe the oil pressure. If it will hole about 15 pounds at idle it is good enough for the N engine.

If it is knocking it could be a loose cylinder sleeve and if so that would mean that the engine must be take down at least the head and pan to replace it. If there is no big ridge in the cylinders where the top piston ring stops then a new set of piston rings would probably do just about as good as a complete overhaul for a working N. The best way to check the wear in a sleeve bore is to take a new compression ring and push it into the bore and turn it like it would be oriented if on the piston and measure the gap at the ring ends. If it is not more than about .030 a new set of rings will do it a world of good and be good enough If the gap is less then that is even better.

You can put new main bearings in the engine without taking the crankshaft out of the engine if the crank looks good and smooth and is not scored or burned looking on any of them. The top mains can be removed by placing a brass rivet into the oil callery of the crank journal and then turning the crank so that the brass rivet pushes the main bearing around the block until it is free of the block and then remove it and the rivet and install the new one and put the cap on and snug it up but don't torque it down until all three mains are done then torque them all to specs. You will have to turn the crankshaft so that the rivets contacts the end of the bearing insert that does not have the keeper on it. The keeper has to come out first. I have done a zillion this way!

If the knock is caused by a loose piston pin the rods should all be taken out and new bushings installed and new pistons put in.

If the sleeve is what is knocking you should get the red high temperature Lock Tite and coat the new sleeve and the block after it has been cleaned of all the old oil and then drive it down flush with the top of the deck. A cut off rear axle from a car makes the best sleeve driver I hawe ever seen. Better that what we at the dealerships used to have.

Zane

Iff'n you feel inexperienced enuff that wrenching on a tractor designed for horsefarmers scares the bejeebers outta someone that can operate a computer, then OLD IRON ain't fer you.

Donnno why yer tractor started acting up on you, BUT setting for 2-years isn't a "DEATH SENTANCE". Yes, it takes some doin's to keep old iron runnin' but I wouldn't be scared. (yet?)

When it was runnin', did you notice the OIL PRESSURE? It is pressure limited to about 35psi, less than that could indicate worn crankshaft and piston bearings ...or... bad oilpressure gauge ($10, cheap) Many N's run with 10-15psi so low pressure isn't a surefire engine rebuild indicator.

Take a compression test. (el-cheapo $20 gauge is goodenuff) Ford recommends 90psi min (dry). Good engine will be 110-120psi dry. 5-puffs minimum or untill it won't increase ennymores. WRITER DOWN. then squirt some oil down the sparkie hole to seal the rings and taker'ginn. Good engine rings will increase compression about +10psi over dry. Worn engine will increase compression about +20psi. Seriously worn engine compression will increase about +30psi. Iff NO INCREASE, eather new engine (+120psi) and you don't haffta worry ...or... BURNED EXHAUST valve. Iff'n 2-cylinders side-by-side are low 70-80psi, blown headgasket. ($10, cheap)

Worn engines with LOW COMPRESSION are hard to start ...but... so are engines with bad sparkies and need a tune-up. One of the founding members of this great N-Board ussta claim 80% of all carb problems are found in the ignition system.

Iff'n yer still concerned, HIRE a mechanic to come out for a "field test". You don't haffta haul yer tractor into the shop for testing..... ...HTH, Dell

Dean