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Dear Dell,
Please note your post of November 1 subjested that I may have crossed 3 and 4. It turned out that 2 and 3 were crossed. you were right I did have wire crossed, but not 3 and 4. A far as electronic ignition it came with it's own mounting plate and no screws sticking through. as for your post of November 11, you told me that you posted on November 1, that I needed to check or replace the ignition switch, please read that post again. I could not find where you wrote that. As for the ignition switch it was replaced about 2 months ago, until then I was using the hot wire method. I using a jumper wire to the cellanode to start the tractor. Until 3 weeks ago I had not used the brushog only the tractor for moving logs. I didn't mean to upset you with my questions. Respectfully, Billy Jack
Billy Jack..... ..thank you for your soft return. I know you are frustrated, relax and chill for a while. Now pay attention and listen closely.
Even though you claim the firing order is correct, convince me. Why? Because these N-Engines are soooo goood that they will run and start on just 2-cylinders and until you load them with a brushhog you won't know it. Because of the weirdness of the 4-nipple frontmount distributor, it is very eazy to miss-wire their firing order; 1,2,4,3 CCW. You say replaced the sparkie wires and that raises a red-flag with me, usually sparkies #4 & #3 gitt swapped. Humor me and re-check them, thank you. As for checking the timing on the frontmount distributor, it is best done by a ruler and the picture in the I&T FO-4 manual. You CANNOT check or adjust the timing with a timing light. Its just the way it is. (tip: timing RETARD is available on an adjustable slot at side distributor. MAX ADVANCE is bottom of the slot, try that) Too much advance makes the engine hard to start, you retard the spark for eazier starting. The low compression N-Engine was designed for 70-octaine gasoline in 1939, even the cheapest gas available today is 87-octaine. Don't worry about knockking from over-advancing. Just worry about being retarded enuff for eazy starting. You say you installed an electronic ignition module. That raises a red-flag to me. Your complaint of lack of high-rpm power can be cause by using a TOO-LONG mounting screw so that it sticks thru the points mounting plate and catches and STOPS the centrifical advance so that you have NO ADVANCE and lack high-rpm power. Check it out. OR.....your lack of high-rpm power, just might be a too-lean down-pointing mainjet in your new carburator. Try ENRICHING the down-pointing mainjet by 1/4-turn CCW. Enny HELP??? As I said earlier, there are many causes of low-power, you now have 4-possibilities that you need to check out. And surprizingly 12-volts ain't a reason. Please get back to us and let us know which ones worked and why. Thank you. ..... ..respectfully, Dell
You write..... ."it will start, but not on a consistent basis. get it started and warm it up and then it won't start"..... ..welp, that has all the characteristics of BAD IGNITION SWITCH guttz. 10 days ago, I told you part of your weak sparkies problem was yer weaksister ignition switch ($10, cheap) Ya wannna listen to me now?..... .respectfully, Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
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