Distributor question

That would be nice, if it were true. Unfortunately, the so-called "12-Volt" square coils are NOT true "12-Volt" coils, and still require a resistor in the primary circuit.

Also, they are NO WHERE as durable as an oil-filled "round-can" automotive coil.

Those coils are simply 1930's technology carried forward FAR past it's time.

That's why some of us "tinkerers", as well as Pertronix have used the round-can coils instead of the just plain crappy "OEM"-style coils. Do you think Pertronix would have gone through the trouble of developing an alternative, without a good reason?

Bob's right, the frontmount distributor squarecan 1-terminal ignition coil "sucks". But with correct gaskets, its WATERPROOF.

To un-water yer flooded distributor, get a spray-can of residue-free electrical motor cleaner, or residue-free brake-clean at your local autoparts and spray-away and letter-dry.

And iff'n yer handy, you can make yer own sealing plate outta anything NOT METAL. Try yer local kitchen-wares counter for something 1/4" thick PLASTIC cutting boards, look. ...or... masonite board from lumber-store. I've even seen something outta 3/4" pine-board.

TIP: its a 2-bolt, 15-min job to remove yer frontmount distributor, so you can change and adjust the points (0.015) on the kitchen table. Yer distributor is driven by an OFF-SET tang scheme and can not be re-installed outta time. Isn't that amazing?

Recommend you squander $27 (cheap) for the I&T FO-4 manual. Available from sponsors of this great N-Board. Most agricultural emporiums, www.amazon.com, www.n-news.com also has great archive of implement manuals. Your local Ford/New Holland dealer usually has it for sale. Even my local (byte my tongue) John Deere parts counter is selling it. While it won't tell you how to convert to 12-volts (we can help) it will help you understand the rest of yer tractor..... ..Dell

(I can just HEAR the purists gagging about now!)

You mention A lead from the coil to the distributor... there will be TWO.

A wire from the (-) terminal on the coil (assuming the battery is connected (-) ground)has to go to the points and condensor INSIDE the distributor. There is a special brass screw down inside the distributor that the coiled "spring thingy" on the OEM coil matched up with to make that connection, and that's where the PRIMARY connection from the round-can coil needs to go.

The high-tension tower on the "new" coil has to connect to a little "button" facing upward on the distributor cap, where the high-tension tab on the OEM coil used to "sit".

In the past, I have done a couple of these conversions.

I fastened a "high tension tower" cut from an old automotive distributor cap to the high-tension "button" on the "N"'s distributor cap, then use a fiberglas repair kit to mold it into place.

Then, I trimmed a small piece of sheet steel to match the open top of the distributor, and drilled and tapped two small holes to fasten it to the top of the distributor housing.

Then, I drilled a small hole in the housing for the wire from the points/condensor to exit the distributor, and sealed the wire in place with a dab of silicone sealant.

Others have "gutted out" the windings, core, and "tar" from an old square-can coil, and connected the wires from the new coil down inside the "gutted out" old coil.

Doing that covers the distributor, but puts another set of possibly troubleome connections... the coiled spring, and the spring tab back into the circuit.

Pertronix makes a adapter to do the same thing as the "gutted out" coil. I'm not sure if you can buy them separately, or just with a Pertronix electronic ignition.

I hope all this RAMBLING helps a bit!

That sounds like an interesting setup. Its probably not good that your distributor is open like that. Your going to continue to have problems with moisture, dirt etc. I'd recommend picking up the right coil for the tractor. if thats all your talking about you're only looking at around 20-25 bucks for a new one.

to answer your question, my guess would be that the alligator clip connects to the little brass screw on the top of your distributor (where the pigtail on the normal 8n front mount coil would connect). But if you got water down in there, you're gonna have to wait until it completely dries out before it wants to start again.