When trying to loosen broken studs with heat, the best thing is an oxy-accetylene torch with a fairly small tip. Heat the STUD as much as possible, rather than the surrounding metal. When it is partially cooled so it's safe, touch a candle to the stud area so the wax melts and "wicks" into the threads. Believe it or not, the candle wax is better than penetrating oil. Let it cool to ambient, then repeat. NEVER EVER try to move the stud while it's hot or even warm. Trying to move the stud while HOT tends to make the stud and the surrounding metal "gall", and literally weld to each other. Heating the the stud, letting it cool, and repeating several times makes the stud get LONGER, and SHRINKS it away from the surrounding metal. I spent a lot of time in the shop in my younger years, with my late Uncle, who was good friends with a real Swedish blacksmith. This was one of his "tricks", and it DOES work. I use it to this day. Or, if you have an arc welder, weld a flat washer to the brokeb stud, burning the weld into the stud as much as possible, to heat it as much as possible. Then, weld a good-sized hex nut to the washer, to privide something tho turn the broken stud out with. Once again, let it COOL to ambient, before wrenching on it. If the washer breaks off of the stud, repeat the process, several times, if necessary, until the stud lets good. I can't see any reason NOT to put studs back in. They use the full depth of the threads in the block, making it as easy as possible on the threads in the block, and are easy to seal to the block to prevent water leaks.
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