Engine replacement -- my notes for others

Since I am not a mechanic (the most mechanical thing I've ever done was build R/C helicopters) some of this may seem obvious. These are the things I was surprised by or that I thought were noteworthy. I hope this helps someone else in the future performing a similiar project.

The blocks come via a freight carrier and can be lifted off the truck by two people. My driver was willing to help me lift the block off the truck and tote it to the garage.

There's paperwork inside the engine box with details about returning your old block with paid freight.

When you get the engine off the tractor, expect all sorts of muck inside the clutch housing. It took me two days with degreaser and a brush to get mine cleaned out. I am just glad I didn't find a bendix in there.

Gaskets come in a generic pack, with all the gaskets mixed together and unlabeled. Most of them are obvious.

Mark wires as you remove them.

I put all my bolts in separate bins with a notecard describing what they were. I also wrote on the notecard what the SIZE was so I didn't have to size every bolt twice.

The fan may scrape the shroud when you put it back on. I adjusted radiator hoses to move the radiator either forward or backward.

An engine hoist can be used to remove the hood and if you are careful. I also use hoist to roll away the front axle and radiator. This makes it a one-person job.

If your tractor has homemade additions to it -- like a 12v conversion, remember you may have to make up your own wiring diagram or assembly instructions.

I installed spade plugs on my headlight wiring so I could easily remove the hood and leave the lights in place.

You will need a clutch alignment tool or something similar. If you can visually align a clutch you are a better person than I. I bought a Universal alignment tool from the local Carquest dealer for $20. They were the only ones who sold a universal kit. It worked fine.

If you think you might have a problem getting the manifold studs out, spray them FIRST THING after taking the manifold off. That will give the penetrating oil all the more time to work while you work on other things.

My old engine had studs for the water pump. I replaced these with bolts. It looked to me like the studs were a lost cause.

Just because the engine is the same spec doesn't mean the oil lines will fit back the way they are supposed to. Be prepared to reshape carefully reshape these.

Expect to replace lots of bolts. Many of mine were worn.

You can break old oil pan bolts off with small ratchet pretty easily. Don't think you need a breakover or large wrench.

I disagreed with a few of the assembly instructions in the J&D Video and the I&T manual. In particular, I put the head on almost last, after the front axle was back on. I did not have an engine stand (for $39 at the harbor freight store I should have bought one) so I was not going to torque down the head with the tractor on jackstands.

Rags and GOOP and Oil dry. Lots of all these.

Danny

I feel that since I invested all this labor and my own time, I will take better care of it.

Someday I'll find one of those $100 fencerow N's waiting for to become my labor of love, and this was a good precursor exercise.

One thing I noticed late that I didn't add (other than all the typos):

- Watch the cam thrust spring. It's this thin round plate that falls off the front of the timing gear after you remove the timing cover. I had to take my timing cover back off to put mine back on. I left it out.

Lots of good tips, Thank you..... .....