Austin..... ..there should have been a black neoprene washer/seal for the THROTTLE shaft. Install with wedgie side OUT. (look close) You want that flexible seal to prevent INCOMING air from upsetting the carb idle adjustments. The dirtywhite FELT washer/seal (usually behind a washer, look) is for the CHOKE shaft where yer puttzin'round with the clock-spring. Install the clock-spring to HOLD-OPEN yer choke. So when you pull yer choke-knob and let go, it will spring-load pop OPEN. You write..... ."The choke plate has a spring loaded semicircle part which apparently opens slightly in the closed position, letting air in. When I reassemble this plate to the shaft, I need to make sure I am putting it back correctly. With the carb in the upright normal position, and the air inlet facing right, does the plate go in with the semicircle opening above the shaft or below the shaft? I assume that the plate is inserted so that when the spring loaded part opens slightly, it opens in the direction of the carb and not the air inlet side?" yep, that choke flapper valve is TOPSIDE of choke shaft and SUCKS-IN to the engine. The choke flapper valve should be spring-loaded tight. (butt it don't matter much) The choke flapper valve is to prevent the "strangler" (choke) from fully sealing the carb throat and FLOODING the engine when cranking. Modern carbs have specifications for choke air-gap (usually a drillbit as feeler gauge) which does the same thing, prevent flooding..... ...Dell, who agrees, carb rebuild instructions suck and carb drawings LIE
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