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First off, your dealer is an idiot. Gas should not be flowing from the carb when it's been running. The only time that this is "normal" or unremarkable is if the tractor has been left setting for a long time with the fuel tap left open. If it's just quit and there's gas coming out of the carb, then the fuel level is way too high - the float needle is not sealing, the float is punctured, or the float height setting is way off. If you haven't already removed the distributor, first do this. Remove the plugs. Hook up your voltmeter between the stud on top of the coil and ground. Turn on the ignition, You will see one of two readings - about 6.3 volts (points are open) or about 3.5 volts (points are closed). Nudge the motor over with the starter - you should see this voltage cycle between the two values as the points open and close. If the voltage does not change, the points are either stuck open or stuck shut, as indicated by the voltage. If the voltages cycle as described, then the points are opening and closing and have not "slipped shut" as diagnosed. As to the distributor, it comes off quick and easy as described. The timing is impossible to describe in words but the I&T manual has an excellent diagram which makes all clear. Reassemble with care - the drive tang and the slot in the cam gear are offset to prevent incorrect assembly but it's not by much and if they are worn they can be persuaded back together wrong. "Rebuild" kits containing new points, rotor arm and sometimes a new condensor are sold at major farm and tractor supply stores. llater, llamas
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