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Why dont I see many people using powdercoat?

N

Nofbdybs

Member
I have noticed that I dont see many, if any, people using powdercoat when they refinish a tractors.
Granted, powdercoat is far from how it came from JD, but there are a ton of benefits that PC offers.
I have restored quite a few quads (4-wheelers) from the 80s, and nearly everyone that does, will powdercoat the hard parts. The finish holds up extremely well, and is almost 100% chip resistant, unless you just go to pounding on it with a ball peen.

Seems like unless you are going for a restoration that you want to eat off of, PC would be a great alternative to paint, especially, on a working tractor.


Thoughts??
 
I know if powder coat does chip it will rust the metal out from the back side. Additionally, if it does chip it is often impossible to patch up since the part is now part of a tractor. I powder coated my rims and I will never do it again. A couple of spots got messed up putting the tires on and now those spots are starting to rust. No way now to put the rim back in the oven (especially with the tire on it).

Just my thoughts.
 
In addition to the chipping resulting in rust, it is kind of hard to get a tractor in an oven, even disassembled there are a lot of big parts. Most of us do our own work, and as Pat says do not have the money for equipment, and speaking for myself have no desire to pay someone else.
 
powder coating is limited in the color selections. and like the other guys said if it chips, it starts rusting. no touching up. jet-hot is another option to powder coating, but that too is way expensive. the javelin we are restoring at the shop had a lot of components powder coated and jet-hot coated, depending on where they were on the car.(all done off vehicle)
 
Well, I didnt mean a do it at home kit.

Also, when compared to a decent paint job, a powdercoat job always came in cheaper for quad parts. Not to mention, there are at least 6 places withing 20min from my house that do Powder coating. Also, I have looked through thier color catalougs, and its pretty complete, with all the major colors. Ford blue, chevy red, JD green, ect.

Granted, you cant put a entire tractor in the oven, but I was thinking more along the lines of smaller parts. Or, if you did a complete, ground-up restoration, having thing like the block, and what not coated would then be fesable.

I have never had the chipping and rusting issues that you guys speak of, and we beat on our quads pretty hard in the dunes. I have seen frames bent into 90deg angles, and only then, would the PC begin to let go. At which point, rust is the least of your worries.

Guess my experience with PC is just different than yalls.
 
One other thing that I was told by somebody that does a ton of powder coating, is that it likes to be a complete envelope. Thus if you were to do an engine block you wouldn't have a complete envelope and it would be much more likely to peel up. Plus it isn't cheap by me.
 
I for one have had absolutely no luck with power coating. I have built some truck beds and several security gates, ornamental railing etc. and had them powder coated. They looked beautiful at the time, come back a year later and they look like crap. When the rust starts, then what?There is no way repair but to paint over it.I say paint it first and forget about it.
 
Prime the bare (clean) metal with an epoxy high temp primer that will take the powder curing temperatures.

Notice the frame in the picture had been primed.

You can get polyurethane powder that will take quite a whack without chipping.

The place I bought powder from will custom mix colors to match a chip.
Large Oven
 
It's whatever works for you. I'm completely happy with paint, and I take care of it. Quads see a lot rougher use than my tractors.
 
I asked a friend of mine about powder coat.He does a lot of high end classic car restorations.He said it won't hold up because frames flex and it will peel.Also at joints it will come off eventually.
 
SO to answer the question, is it OK to powder coat springs? Well that depends. In the amount of heat applied during the curing process. Too much heat is harmful to springs. Once springs begin to get hotter than 350 degrees Fahrenheit they begin to anneal, that is the steel starts to get soft, the temper is lost and the spring will not support any weight.

In order to safely powder coat springs the temperature MUST remain below 350 degrees!!!!

If you are debating between powder coating and chroming your springs, powder coating is safer.

I want to go get my H&R sports powder coated, but I know they bake it when they coat them, ya I know it's only like 300 degrees, and

(I know they powder coat them at the factory)

, but I'm wonder if this would cause any problems on USED springs. Sagging, cracking, distorting etc. If anyone has done this or knows a thing or two I would appreciate the info.
 
After reading all the answers , I have a few questions myself: Are all the painted parts gonna match the PC parts? What happens when you heat sheet metal up to PC temps? What about any body fillerand/or primer surfacers used to prep the sheet metal , will it take the extreme temps? And we all know there aren't any sheet metal parts that don't need this to make perfect. My opinion is that you will only be able to PC roughly 25% of the tractor safely. What's the point? It has it's place....tractors aren't it.
 
Will the paint match exactly - no
Sheetmetal can warp if improperly heated, not sure if it is hot enough in the powder coat oven
Body filler doesn't like powder coat. Powder coat needs an electronic charge to stick. It would be like trying to stick a magnet to plastic.
 
The questions about powder coating seem to be around the thought that powder coat materials are all the same. They are not. You can get low temp powders that take lower heats. You can get flexible powder coat materials.

You can powder coat over epoxy primers to get adhesion as long as the temperatures in the oven do not exceed the max temperatures of the primer.

If you are here you can get to google and do some research from powder coat manufactures that will answer a lot of those questions.
 
Powdercoating is used to avoid polution at the factory. It's really not as good as the cheapest paint. Rust festers under the rubbery powdercoat. So instead of a light surface rust you'll have 5" holes. Maybe OK over galv.
 
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