Protective Eq. Needed for Epoxy Primer

TJ in KY

Member
This is the first time I will be using anything but rattle cans for painting and I am looking for information on protective equipment.
I have decided on and ordered PPG MP170 epoxy primer. I need some help with personal protective eq needed. I have looked at MSDS sheet and I don't see where it calls out what type of cartridges in Section 8.
I have a half mask resperator, is that adequate??? What type of cartridges do I need??? Would you recommend a full face mask instead?? Also do I need any kind of Tyvek or laminated Tychem coveralls.
I will be painting some small stuff outside, weather and time permitting this weekend if I can get everything I need together.
I have ordered:
MP 170 Epoxy Primer
MP 175 Catalyst
MX 190 Grease & Wax Remover
MR Reducer
MP 181 Surfacer
Fish Eye Additive (not sure if I need this with primer)
they have mixing cups stir sticks etc in stock.
Have I missed anything???
Thanks for all previous help and tips everyone has offered.
 
None of what you listed contains isocyanates, so the cartridges are TC23C. P95 prefilters are a good idea. 99.9% of the masks you see will have 23C and P95. Full face mask is better than a half mask, but I use only a half mask. You do not need fish eye preventer as long as you keep your area free of oil and particularly silicone. I may have needed it once or twice, but that was because I had oil on my fingers. I have heard that it can do more harm than good. Ther rest looks ok to me. My PPG dealer does not carry MX90, I use DX 330. I don't use coveralls, I do wear a Tyvec Jacket, mainly to keep the vapors off my arms. Also protects my clothes from the paint smell.
 
Thanks for the reply. Do you mean just normal body oils on your hands or oil transferred by hands? What can be used to remove RTV silicone residue from gasket installation if I get some on cast iron as I reassemble the tractor.
Also I since I will be painting outside, should I NOT paint if humidity is high or temp is hot? What would cutoff temp and humidity be? I know these are kind of basic questions but I just want to be sure. Thanks again
Tom
 
I try not to touch sheet metal after I prepare it, probably normal secretions off my fingers. Others differ, but I do not use silicon, I use copper coat, sometimes I don't use anything. The only place it is required is on the head gasket. I live in SW KS. Slight exaggeration, but we don't have humidity. I paint inside, so I can't really answer your question. Cutoff maybe 80%? Someone else can answer that. I have painted with no problems up to about 85 degrees. In the summer I prefer to paint in the morning when it is cooler. PPG has low, medium, and high temp reducers, MR 85 is cool -- up to 70 or so; 86 maybe 70's, if over 80 I use 87. To be honest, I have never seen much difference, they all work, but I have not painted in 90 degree temps either. 95% of my painting has been from about 68 to less than 85, mostly in the 70's. Rod(NH) has some more accurate numbers, perhaps he will read this and post his link.
 
PPG OMNI reducers do not specify actual recommended temperature ranges. They are listed only as Fast, Medium, Slow and Very Slow. The hardener choices are similarly designated. I have estimated some equivalent temperature ranges for my own purposes to be as follows:

MR185 fast reducer = 60-70F
MR186 medium reducer = 70-80F
MR187 slow reducer = 80-90F
MR188 very slow reducer = 90+F
MH167 fast hardener = 60-75F
MH168 slow hardener = 70-85F
MH169 very slow hardener = 80-95F

Like CNKS, I pretty much confine my painting (which is outside) to temperatures in the 70s. I do not consider humidity at all as long as it is reasonably comfortable. If it's not comfortable, I wouldn't be painting. The above numbers are not hard limits by any means. I generally choose MR 186 but may use 187 if in the high 70s. I always use the MH168. Anything outside the above estimated range for that, I normally wouldn't be painting.
 
They are really only my own best judgement as to rational temperature ranges. There's nothing particularly "accurate" about 'em.
 
You can block sand out any runs or fisheyes in your epoxy primer and for sure you will be block sanding, maybe two or three apps, the 181 for that perfect, no dent no ripple tinwork.
 
Don't know why I left the 1 off the reducers. I've never used 188, may have used 185, but usually not.
 

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