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Paint Question

M

Mashbox

Member
I have purchased synthetic enamel paint for my tractor from an online source and picked up Valspar reducer and hardener locally. I was told by the paint supplier to use 1 quart of hardener for a gallon of paint, but the local store told me I would not need more than a pint per gallon.

This is my first time at this, so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
 
I would use the recommendations on the label if there is any. Many times they put hazard warnings on the paint can in two or three languages and there isn't room for instructions. They make you get instructions on-line. The manufacturer has engineered the paint and they know the best formula.

Any paint that I have used has called for a pint of hardener per gallon.
 
The company I purchased the paint from mixes their own, but I do not know what brand paint they use. I will look at the paint can tonight and see if there are any instructions on it, but I do not recall seeing anything. I do not remember what brand paint it was, but I know it was shipped in a Benjamin Moore box. I didn't think Benjamin Moore made anytning but house paint.
 
a quart to the gallon is way too much hardener. follow the mixing directions on the can of hardener. a pint to the gallon is more realistic. also, mix the paint and reducer first, before adding the hardener.
 
It is a very big job to paint a tractor. You might be better off starting over and purchasing a different paint. It appears what you bought is better but I painted a kubota tractor with valspar alkyd enamel I bought at tractor supply. Two years later and the tractor is more white than orange in spots and needs to be done again. I just painted another tractor with a 2k urethane automotive paint. It looks much better and being a automotive paint I'm sure it will last for many years. The cost of the paint was more than double what the kubota paint was but I believe it was worth it. I would recommend PPG Concept. It would be available at automotive paint stores.
 
Glennster, the spec sheet for the Valspar reducer says to mix the color and hardener prior to adding the reducer. What difference would this make?
 
i recently used some synthetic enamil for a project. 1pt of valspar hardner per gallon was fine.

also.. I'd use whatever they reccomended as a reducer.. not mineral spirits.. possibly not even naptha.. might be something with hexane in it.. etc.
 
follow the spec sheet, if that is what they recommend. certain hardeners will activate the paint too quickly in un-reduced products.
 
I would do what Stephen suggested and buy automotive paint. I used Dupont's acrylic enamel on the light gold and New Holland's acrylic enamel blue last year on my garden tractor. I used Acme thinner for acrylic enamel. Hal
a56196.jpg
 

I am not a paint guy but I have learned quite a bit here. You may be happy with synthetic enamel. Depending on the project, I perhaps would be also. Take into consideration how much prep you are doing and what your objective is in appearance and longevity, as well as colors. Bright colors don't last well out doors in cheap paints. Cheap paint on top of 50 hours of prep makes no sense just as expensive paint on top of two hours prep makes no sense. Plan the project first and be wary of "mission creep"
 
Normally you re4duce at 8:1. and add hardener at 8:1. So put 24 ozs paint, 3 0zs reducer and a tad over 3 ozs hardener in a beaker, mix it up and fill your gun.
 
I use the urethane(naxon- which is Dupont) from O'Reilly automotive. 8 part paint-2 reducer--1 harder. I use 5oz dixie cups to mix with, be sure to use paper cups. The price to not much more and you will have a better paint job and will last longer. If your just painting a old work tractor and don't care use tractor supply paint, but it will change colors in a year. Painted a Bushog red and in a year it was pink.
 
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