Tire chain questions?

Thanks

Phil

The grader had been breaking these quite regularly. Since I made these up I've only broken two cross chains. That old Champion grader with 250 hp Cummins had a lot more torque than my Farmall 130. If you can get used truck chains they make a good source. These guys will sell them for scrap price. $1,000. chaims are fine if your tractor is pulling in dollars.

Contact tirechains.com and look over there selection.
But-that's my $.02 and I'm trying to be helpful. As I said, for my situation here on the NY/PA border, where I use the Ford for a little bit of snow clean up and then for getting up to my woods, I'll definitely go with double rings when I get a new set.

Even here in SW Ontario these guys wait for frost to plow on. You try that in the Maritimes and you will not get plow in ground. I've seen conditions where Cat D-7 or D-8 wouldn't break the frost, even with a ripper. I saw a D-7 slide sideways close to 500' on a hayfield. Frost was so hard tracks just wouldn't penetrate. When it started going it was just like skates. I doubt if Phil sees too much of that kind of frost in Maryland. I just don't believe you have to go after a mouse with a cannon.

I have used them all from big skidder ring corked chains, double ring, ice chains and regular cross chains. The secret to regular cross chains is not keeping them too tight. Tighten them so you can nicely put your arm between cross chain and tire just where it leaves the ground. This way the chain set actually counter rotates on tire as you travel. This will keep the cross chains clean and out of tire treads. Only one good reason for keeping regular cross chains tight, that being speeds of 10 mph or more.

I have plowed snow with everything from my Farmall SA to a Champion road grader. On both those I used regular cross chains, quick to put on and take off as you are not spending time tightening. If you want to go down the highway in high gear you just take chains off and hang them on behind.

The other types must be kept tight as the corks, spikes, etc. will damage tires if not tight. I have used these on John Deere forestry skidders, Farmalls 130, 300, 560 and 656. They give excellent traction, but are also very capable of breaking things. The only time I ever broke a final drive on 130 was using ice chains. Also twisted an axle on Farmall 300 using corked ring chains. European tractor manufacturers from the 50s, 60s and 70s would not even stand behind warrenty on drive train if they found you had been using ring and ice chains.

I've dealt with them over the phone and found them to be very knowledgeable and helpful.

I see that they also sell adjusters, now. They're probably worth the cost if they save some aggravation; I don't have the adjusters myself so I can't say how well they work.

One more comment: Although the name of the business is "Tirechains.com" (plural), the actual URL is "www.tirechain.com" (singular).

• Tirechains.com

Here's a place you can check out the styles and sizes available and get an idea of prices. I have some that are very much like the Duo-Grip on my Oliver (16.9x26 tires). They are not that good on ice. If I had to do it over again, I would get the V-Bar Duo-Grip instead. I have a set on V-Bar style chains on my plow truck and they seem to work pretty well, even on ice. The best would be large studded skidder chains if you have tires large enough to handle them - but those things are well over $1000! I don't care much for the regular ladder style chains for standard tractor treads. They tend to get into the tread grooves and their effectiveness is diminished. They would be a good choice on turf tires though. If you buy them on line, be prepared for some high shipping costs. The things are heavy in the large tractor sizes.

Rod