5000 Select-O-Matic won't move

Thanks

Mike

I have over the years come up with a better way to adjust the bands than the manuals will show you and here it is from my files.

I don't think you will find that the torque limiting clutch is the problem. If it were it wouldn't work in any gear or pto.
The Pto is notorious for not disengaging except when there is a load on the pto. Usually then it will work OK.
The bands are easy to adjust but the hydraulics of the trans. must be working in order to do it. If you will put the transmission in which ever gear a paricular band is supposed to be engaged you will be able to release the lock nut without the adjusting screw moving. If on the other hand the adjusting screw moves with no resistance when you have it in the gear that is supposed to have that band applied you can assume you have hydraulic problems with what ever is supposed to be applying the band.
After you have turned the lock nuts back on each band then you can turn the adjusting screw in till you feel the engine begin to load because you will be doing the same as trying to put the transmission in more than one gear by removing the clearance in the band that is supposed to be disengaged at thine time. Then you need to turn the adjusting screw out 3/4 turn. Put it back in the gear that puts tension on the adjusting screw and tighten the locking nut. The reason you do it this way is because it is almost impossible to hole the screw while thightening the lock nut when the band is disengaged. Do this procedure on all three bands except that the front #1 band should be backed off only 1/2 turn because it is the smallest diameter of the 3 bands.

Here is some more trouble shooting stuff that might help you on the transmission.

There are a few things that can cause the problem you are experiancing. Believe it or not I was a factory trained selecto speed mechanic about 30+years ago. The first thing I would do is pull the top of the transmission off.You really need a manual to do this.I'll try to tell you how but it still would be better to look at a manual. First thing take the two flare nuts off the things that look like tubing to the top of the trans cover.Remove the four cross point screws that hole the shifter to the hood.Have the shifter in park before removeing anything.After the four screws are removed and the flare nut is loosened on top of the cover,while holding the shifter move the lever all the way to tenth gear while letting the shift cable gently push the tubing up and away from the cover. You will see a connecting point about 2inces up the cable that can now be disconnected by pushing it apart. Measure the length of cable still remaining in the transmission cover so that you can put it back EXACTLY the same length when you go back up.
Now screw the cable that is sticking out of the transmission cover all the way out and lay it aside. Next you will have to tackle the PTO cable. It should be pulled all the way out.Look inside the hood where the other end of the tubing is connected with a flare nut and loosen the nut all the way. Now loosen the retaining nut that holds the PTO shift handle to the hood and take it all the way loose and let it hang on the shift shaft behind the handle.Now you will be able to screw the PTO cable out of the cover.I can't remember wheather to turn the handle right or left, but turn the handle the way that will cause the flate nut on the tubing on top of the transmission to begin to push up the flare nut.Keep the tubing free and keep turning untill the PTO cable is screwed all the way out, or untill it can be pulled out and freed from the cover. There is a alignment tube inside to make reassembly possible and it will be evident when you get the cover off. Now take out all the bolts on the perminter of the cover. Be sure to blow all the trash etc off the top of the transmission as dirt is the mortal enemy of the selecto speed trans. when you get the cover off look at the valve body which is the first thing you will see in the transmission. Move the inching (clutch) peday and observe the valve that moves. It should move in and out freely. If it is stuck this is the trouble.PUll it out with something and move it around to free it up. Just a minute particle of grit or metal filing can mess up the movement of the valves.they are mechanically engaged and a spring puts them back in the neutral position. You can turn the cam shaft to see if all the valves are returning to the neutral position or not.Just be positively sure that you have the cam in the park position before trying to reassemble the cover. If it move to another gear while working it back together you will never get it to work till you take the cover back off and get in in park before you start.The shift cable must be exactly the correct length when the top is back on and the range shift cable is screwed back down into the cam mechanism.

If you find all is in proper order on the shift cam and valve body then you need to determine if the transmission is turning at all. With the manual shifter in neutral and bolted down so as not to move back in gear start the tractor by shorting the starter neutral wire to engage the starter and see if anything moves in the transmission when the range is changed by turning the cam of the valve body. It may sling oil out if it is turning so be ready to stop the engine. If there is no action at all in the transmission You may have a bad shock clutch at the flywheel and the tractor will have to be broken into just as if you were installing a clutch in a straight shift. It acts as a slip clutch for when the engine is at too high a power setting when the gears are shifted to prevent damage to the drive train. Most times when the clutch goes out it is the hub that fails.

I hope this helps you some. If you dicide to go into the transmission at the rear end which is about the only place to go into if the front pump or the slip clutch does not need service do not go in without a manual because there are a few procedures for tearing it down that must be followed to prevent damage to parts that will otherwise be OK.

I must make a couple of corrections however. First off, the PTO on the 5000 is not located in the transmission and DOES have a brake on it. These will stop when the handle is disengaged. The 2, 3, and 4000 PTOs did not have a brake on them, and consequently, 99% of them turned all the time when nothing was attached to the shaft.

Also, the cover removal instructions and cable adjustment procedures you gave were for the smaller tractors. The 5000 procedure is somewhat different (and easier). Also, there is no PTO cable adjustment.

Also, the easiest way to tell if the torque limiting clutch is still intact is to simply see if the PTO will turn a load.

I agree with you about repairing the trans as opposed to replacing it with a manual. The SOS is a fine trans when operating properly. The manual 8 speed is about the least desireable transmissions of any manuals out there. No syncros, only two reverse speeds (slow and fast), and a poor choice of speed ratios.

As for changing the transmission out, you will have to contact some of the major salvages that specialize in Ford. They have change over kits, but are costly.

If it were mine, I would try and fix the one I have. If you are mechanically incline you shouldn't have much problem in fixing the SOS as long as you have a repair manual handy to follow instructions