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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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.090 sleeve tool?

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John Norquist

09-15-2003 12:02:48




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Does anyone have a sleeve puller /or plug I can borrow to install .090 sleeves. The local machine shop wants $65 per sleeve to replace! I'm going to look around for someone to weld a few beads down the sleves to remove them. If someone has the correct puller or plug, that would help me out a lot! It is always easier with the right tools. Thanks, John Norquist
Northern New York




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Blake (TX)

09-15-2003 20:18:10




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 Re: .090 sleeve tool? in reply to John Norquist, 09-15-2003 12:02:48  
third party image

John,

If you know somebody with a lathe, it's not too hard to make one that works real well. Here's a link to my site with details on the one I made (with some help).

Blake Palmer
Rosharon, TX
1952 8N 512510

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make one . . . Dell (WA)

09-15-2003 13:37:56




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 Re: .090 sleeve tool? in reply to John Norquist, 09-15-2003 12:02:48  
John..... ...cut a couple of wooden circles (or metal, your choice) to fit and a length of threaded rodd and some nuts. Doesn't really have to be too tight (or precise). Stuff some dry-ice chunks in cylinder between circles (kept apart by threaded rod) and let the cold shrink your sleeve and slipper home. Dry ice is not hard to find nor that expensive. Naturally, don't freeze yer figgers..... .....Dell

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David - OR

09-15-2003 13:32:59




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 Re: .090 sleeve tool? in reply to John Norquist, 09-15-2003 12:02:48  
Let me cast my vote for the "Zane Whang".

As recommended by Zane, get a 6 inch x 6 inch square of steel plate, 1/2 inch thick or thicker.

Make sure the recess in the block (that accepts the top flange of the sleeve) is clear of carbon and crud.

Put the sleeve in the cylinder, put the plate on top of the sleeve, and drive the sleeve into the block with a sledgehammer. It is normal for the sleeve to stand proud of the block by up to .005 or so, so don't try to pound it absolutely flush if it doesn't seem to want to go down any further.

If you are going to try the freeze method, you must also warm the block. Just freezing the sleeves does not work -- they warm up as soon as they touch the block and hang up in the cylinder about 1/3 of the way down. Maybe if you get the sleeve to 0 degrees, and the block to 200 degrees, they will "just drop in".

Zane said to skip the freezing bit, and I think he is right. Just pound them in with the steel plate. Don't try to cheap out with a block of wood or a too thin steel plate. The former cannot drive it down the last 0.1 inch, the latter risks cracking the sleeve.

I did my engine as Zane recommended, and it worked really well.

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