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In addition to what has already been mentioned you might want to consider the following: A torque wrench for the head bolts, manafold nuts etc. All gaskets that you "might" need. Gasket cement or compound (also some suitable for the head gasket). Silicone sealer (to make a gasket if needed). A 3/4" offset socket, or offset 3/4" end wrench adapter (for 1/2 drive socket set/torque wrench). (To re-torque the cyl head after the engine is started and "warmed up" and after it is used a while.) This allows re-torquing the head bolts without removing the rocker arms and support shaft. Some "really good" degreaser for "final clean up" prior to assembly. New (string wound or fiber packed) oil filter (soaked in oil prior to installing). Feeler gages to set valve/rocker arm clearances prior to starting engine. (Check and readjust after engine is HOT if needed. Final adjustment is best done "hot and running".) Be sure that the oil lines from the "T" near the oil pump pressure spring plug to the cylinder head and to the oil filter housing/base are open and that oil will flow through them. Be sure the small "U" shaped oil tube from the cylinder head to the hollow rocker arm shaft is clean and open and properly installed. You "might" want to clean the "sludge" out of the hollow roker arm shaft. It "might" be a good idea to remove the engine oil pan and clean it and clean the oil pump intake screen. For cold weather, the use of 10W-30 engine oil makes for easier starting and/or hand cranking. You may have already planned on all of the above. Good luck in your efforts.
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