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please don't shoot

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David A. Hodson

06-03-2005 05:22:41

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Guys I need help, I'm not familar with A.C. (actully a Farmall guy but likes others too), but trying to help out a good friend with his D17 that keeps getting water in oil (we thinks its water oil get discolored really quick but I wouldn't say milky, he's had the head rebuilt and a new gasket, does this model have a hydraulic pump on the motor that could leak into the engine like the old Farmalls. Sorry so long but not sure where to startThanks in adcance David

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David A. Hodson

06-04-2005 03:23:36

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Thanks For The Info in reply to David A. Hodson, 06-03-2005 05:22:41

Thanks for the info guys all of you have said what I was thinking but wasn't sure about,I'm gonna let it set a couple of days and possibly drain the oil and see if I get any water when I first pull the plug. Thanks again David

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dej(JED)

06-03-2005 12:01:42

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Re: please don't shoot in reply to David A. Hodson, 06-03-2005 05:22:41

I agree with Texas Denny. Check for sleeve cracks or bad o rings.

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Texas Denny

06-03-2005 08:08:09

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Re: please don't shoot in reply to David A. Hodson, 06-03-2005 05:22:41

David, you've checked the top end of the cylinders. So the problem is most likely with the bottom end. There are sleeves in each cylinder. On top they are sealed by the head gasket. If you've got a new gasket and a rebuilt head, the top probably is no problem. The bottom of the sleeve is sealed between the crankcase (oil) and the cooling system (water) with two or three o-rings between the block and the sleeve. These o-rings occasionally fail in normal service and need to be replaced. Usually this problem is a fairly slow leak like you describe.

A second possibilty is that the block is cracked between the sleeves. It's a lot more rare. It is hard to check for block cracks with the sleeves in place so you'll need to pull the sleeves and check the o-rings. If the o-rings look perfect, get the block magnafluxed (sometimes you can see the cracks with the naked eye but not usually).

If the o-rings are bad, you can probably assume the block is OK if the mating block surface (for the o-rings) is smooth and uniform and there is no evidence of a crack in the web between the cylinders.

I've had several tractors with this problem. Only one had a cracked block - and the o-rings were bad on the cracked block as well. I never had the block magnafluxed because we could see hairline cracks - very, very small. I didn't want to take a chance so I replaced the block.

It's a bunch of work but is doable.

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steve(ill)

06-03-2005 19:58:36

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Re: please don't shoot in reply to Texas Denny, 06-03-2005 08:08:09

if it is water it is probalby coming around the sleeves. drain the oil and remove the oil pan. look for water droplets around the liner bottoms.--- if it is minimal you cn put sop leak in the radiator and that should work. if it is a bad leak, time to pull the liners and replace.---make sure it is water. are you loosing power steering fluid? if it has a steering pump, that is driven off motor and could have a bad front seal.

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Texas Denny

06-03-2005 20:40:42

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Re: please don't shoot in reply to steve(ill), 06-03-2005 19:58:36

Steve, the power steering pump on my D-17 is mounted on the back of the generator. When did they change to something driven off the motor (Series IV)? Even if steering fluid were getting in the pan, it would not make the oil milky - only water and anti-freeze does that.

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