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D15 running poorly when warm

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alan haley

06-28-2006 11:48:37




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I just bought a D 15. The guy said he thought there was valve/piston problems cause it would run for a bit and then break down with dirty plugs. I checked the cylindar pressure and found 140 pounds in all four cylindars. It went to this pressure by the third stroke. I cant see how it could have valve/ring problems if it holds this pressure.

Thinking it was really a carburator issue, I rebuilt the carb. Now it starts and runs fine until it warms up and then starts to fail. Eventually, it just dies. If you wait a while, you can start the engine and go again for awhile.

Go any ideas?

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noncompos

07-01-2006 16:57:58




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 Re: D15 running poorly when warm in reply to alan haley, 06-28-2006 11:48:37  
As Old sez, it sounds like a classic case of bad coil; if the coil's mounted in a hot place, exposed to lots of engine heat, it'll fail quicker...the only other thing is why the previous owner mentioned dirty plugs...did he say he had to clean the plugs to re-start?...do you have to?...if so, there could be something else, but if not it's almost certainly the coil. Good luck.



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Alan Haley

07-02-2006 06:20:02




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 Re: D15 running poorly when warm in reply to noncompos, 07-01-2006 16:57:58  
I had to clean the plugs to start it when I first got it in my yard. It did look like oil, but now i think it may have been gasoline and carbon. I rebuilt the carb, started much better but went into this failing when hot thing. I followed your advice and replaced the coil. Still ran poorly. I started it this morning and could not get it to accelerate without failing. I opened up the needle valve on the carb another turn (about 2 1/4 open now) and it immediately accelerated without failing. Its pouring rain right now and I dont have any of the sheet metal on it so I dont want to take it out and put a load on it but I have high hopes for this afternoon.

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chiefrider

06-28-2006 13:52:20




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 Re: D15 running poorly when warm in reply to alan haley, 06-28-2006 11:48:37  
Just a thought,maybe your float is set a little high and it may be flooding out?



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alan haley

06-28-2006 13:32:04




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 Re: D15 in reply to alan haley, 06-28-2006 11:48:37  
I dont know what I was thinking of. I have a D 17; not a D 15.



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old

06-28-2006 14:24:25




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 Re: D15 in reply to alan haley, 06-28-2006 13:32:04  
D-15 or D-17 if its a gasser they both work the same . My educated guess would be that your coil is going bad. If say it runs good for about and hour and the starts to spit and sputter and then dies and will restart after an hour or 2 its probably the coil heating up and shorting out in side. One way to check is wwhen it dies on you jump off and check for spark. Do not wait even 5 minutes beforew you do this, I'll almost bet you will have little or no spark and if so replace the coil and you will probably be good to good

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alan haley

06-29-2006 04:23:19




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 Re: D15 in reply to old, 06-28-2006 14:24:25  
I have an old coil from an antique jeep and will swap them out. It does not take an hour for this to happen however. Once the tractor is warm, it starts to fail. Putting it under load will speed up the process.

Do you think I am wrong on the cylindar thing? Is it possible for rings/valves to be worn and still hold 140 lbs in each cylindar?



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old

06-29-2006 08:06:35




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 Re: D15 in reply to alan haley, 06-29-2006 04:23:19  
That type of compreassion says the engine is still in good shape. Shoot theres a lot of them out the running with less the 100PSI on all the cylinders and they of course smoke some but there still working. I would still do a spark check when it starts giveing you problems that way you will know if its a gas problem or a spark problem



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