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anti freeze in oil AC 180

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Al47

12-11-2006 07:58:33




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We have just acquired a AC 180 diesel that has been sitting in a field for several years with the exhaust left uncovered.The engine is stuck,with rust in all 6 cylinders.But,our biggest concern is anti-freeze in the oil pan.About 4 gallons when drained.
My quistion,is there any other way for anti-f to leak except by seals around the sleeves in the block?There are no visable cracks in head or block Thanks for any info Al

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Slade (TN)

12-13-2006 07:13:18




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 Re: anti freeze in oil AC 180 in reply to Al47, 12-11-2006 07:58:33  
If you want to swap out the engine, I have one off an F combine. There will be some work involved, but it sounds like you have that already! The engine I have is still on the combine/engine "chassis" and can be started and ran in the shop. We ran it about 30 mins. and oil psi at operating temp. was 30-32 idling and 50-55 wide open. If you want more info feel free to call or email.

615-218-9950 cell
615-563-4363 home

Slade

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John Rogers

12-11-2006 17:24:09




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 Re: anti freeze in oil AC 180 in reply to Al47, 12-11-2006 07:58:33  
Hi, Our 180 diesel had a problem with cavitation,that is the metal in one sleeve next to the o ring seal eroded and was leaking antifreeze into the crankcase. we replaced that sleeve, pulled all the other sleeves and they looked good, so put it back together with all new o rings. That was about 5000 Hrs ago and it's still working good. It really hacks me to think anyone would leave an engine exhaust open with no provision to keep moisture out of it.

Good luck, John in NW Mo.

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Texas Denny

12-11-2006 09:21:54




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 Re: anti freeze in oil AC 180 in reply to Al47, 12-11-2006 07:58:33  
Antifeeze can come from the places you've indicated plus the head gasket. Bad head gaskets are usually evident in the head gasket on dis-assembly. You probably wouldn't see evidence in the cylinders of a cracked head or bad head gasket since you say the exhaust was uncovered for years. You'll need to have the head pressure tested just to be sure. Here in Texas, that only cost $25. When you pull out the cylinders, check the condition of the o-rings at the bottom of the sleeves. If they have been leaking, you should see cracks and deterioration of the rubber. If these o-rings look good (and the head tests good and the head gasket looked good), you'll need to have the block checked - don't know cost of this.

I don't think much of stop leak as it never helped me on bad o-rings seals for sleeves.

All cracks are not easily seen.

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